I don't know if I am posting this in the correct place but here it goes. Mods your more than welcome to move it else where.


I currently have a 95' Mitsu. Evo III


The car had been sitting down for 1 year. After about a month of convincing the owner he decided to sell it to me.


It is extremely dead (slow). It had a flat spot really noticable at about 4K 2nd gear. I changed plugs serviced car the flat spot dis-appeared completely but still dead.

When its cold it runs close to what boost it used to run which is ~14psi but when it get hot it runs 10psi. I herd from people it could be the fuel pump and/or the knock sensor not sure but im going to change both unless someone can pin point what it is.

Recently i took off the bumper and i found a hole in the intercooler piping about a match or two thick. Now a friend was following me a night home and he said it was running rich quiet alot of black smoke. So what some of my people are telling me is the air could be leaking out of that hole so the MAF sensor is reading that and compensating with lots of fuel therefore richening it. I will get it patched but could that be the main reason as to why its soooo dead?

Please let me know fellas/girlies (if any)

Just wanted some takes from some more experienced persons around the evo society.

 

Yes. Boost leaks are a huge no-no for turbo cars. A tiny hole can cause a huge loss in power.

 

So the theory of the hole and the MAF reading the air and basically making it rich could be the big main reason as to why its running so dead?

 

Yup, get that whole plugged. Also, do a boost-leak test to find any other leaks (which it most certainly has).

 

I have the stuff to do the B-leak test. It looks as if i was patched already before the hole is right on the patch but hopefully when i fix it it will run the 13.2~13.4 it should. Thats a bone stock engine 18PSI

Bu if anyone else has any other things that i should check let me know but as for now i will patch it back and see and if it doesnt change i will let you guys know.

 

Get a new coupler, don't just patch it. But that's correct, leaking the measured air will result in a massively rich condition.

 

what a friend of mine did was he did over his uicp. when u took down the bumper did u notice how the uicp was run? did u also notice a bix attached to the pipe (i think thats like a resonator) any way he had a whole in that box and had the same prob ur having. by doin over the uicp it allowed him to :1) condemn the box and 2) shorten the path from the intercooler to the intake manifold.

just some thing to think about!

 

I guess but for now i will just leave the route it runs, get it patched and see if it makes it better, its honestly like a small hole but from the feedback i have gotten it seems as if that is the problem i understand what the car is doing but could that little of hole really make that much difference.

I have an intank walbro 255hpl to go in aswell as a new knock sensor all i can pray is that it is one of those 3 stopping me from making the power the car used to make. So when i get the hole patched i will be happy if it is that and then the other extra parts i bought wil just be additions and not a need as to find out where my problem is.



P.s dont know what bix or resonater your tlaking about its aftermarket all aluminum piping from turbo to intake mani. if you can explain a lil mor i may be missing something.

 

this box comes with the oem piping so if u have aftermarket piping i shouldn't be there (hopefully).

 

I did a disco potato swap on a 3 about two years ago. Car ran like garbage until I plugged the knock sensor back in. As already stated: test for leaks, look for popped off connectors (IC pipes) or vacuum hoses, maybe a cracked vac hose, look at the knock sensor and see if it is leaking and oily clear fluid, try another MAS (late 90's Galant, 2nd get turbo DSM, montero, diamante will work), stale gas, TPS, FPR. Some times a wastegate gets a hole inside it, again, boost leak test.

Unplug each injector individually at idle, if one does not cause the idle to drop like crazy or there is only a small change, then take a long extension and a hammer, lightly tap on the injector and see if things change, sometimes they get stuck. Oh and clogged injectors were the initial problem with the 3. Pop the injectors out and check inside the little filters on the inlet side if the injectors. Rust likes to accumulate in there. One of the three injectors initially had about a gram of rust in it. Change the fuel filter if you can and check the pump as stated. Sorry for the scatterbrainedness, I am hungover.

 

Thanks for the things to check im hoping that its just the hole the car is in the shop getting some work done to it for now chassis wise, if i unplugg the knocksensor and drive the car and there is no diff then i know its the knock right? or will it ECL and not run properly cause its not reading that its not plugged in i will try the things i can for now i have an walbro pump to put in an extra gen. knock sensor and i will fix the hole if that doesnt do it then i will return and tell you guys that the **** in my driveway doesnt work