Hey all,

Just wanted some feedback to make sure I'm on track or if I'm missing anything.

I was going to get a Staged kit, but I recently found out we're having an addition to our family, so I can't really drop the cash on an exhaust and piggyback right now...

I did install my boost gauge last night, and was planning on installing my MBC and Forge DV this weekend. If I boost ~19psi on 94 octane gas, there should be noticeable difference, right? I can see that my baseline is peaks of ~19 psi with a taper to 16-17 at high rpm.

I have this idea of having a muffler shop create a pipe for the axle back. This should be good for ~10 HP or so and maybe help in the high rpm a little.

If I can sneak it in, maybe for xmas, I was thinking of an SAFC, following the guidelines from Bushur or other people with ~stage 1 setups. I think this would make the biggest difference, maybe doubling the gain of the previous components. Should I get SAFCII or SAFC? I supposed I can search for product differences, but if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

Do all of the power mods sound reasonable? Should be a solid low 13 second car, perhaps high 12s? Not that I'm much of a drag racer, but just as a benchmark.

As for maintenance: I am doing an oil change with OEM filter and Mobil1 10W30 this weekend. I also have Redline Mt90 (GL-4) for the tranny and NEO RHD (GL-5) for the diffs to go in as well. I'm at 3000 miles, but I may just do the tranny stuff as well, then do it again at 10K miles or so. I just did my wife's WRX with the NEO (GL-5 is speced for tranny and rear diff) and it's awesome. There was also some magnetic residue on her drain plugs so I want that out of my car, heh.

Sorry for the long rambling.

Any thoughts?

FB

 

If you aren't much for dragging, then why do the power increasers at all? I understand how fun it is to modify a car, particularly one that responds well to upgrades, but all too often, this just leads to more intensive maintenance requirements, increased fatigue of the existing components, and if they are installed or used improperly, fuhgedaboutit.

Also, I've heard about Redline fluids pitting the gears in DSM's, thats why I used GM syncromesh in my GSX. I actually talked to the service manager at the dealership I got the evo from and he said that often on the first and second gen dsm's they used GM syncromesh themselves. That surprised the hell out of me.

 

Just my opinion, but depending on cost, you're likely to see more value from getting a cat-back setup (I'm not going to run cat-less). The reason I say this is that getting a higher quality cat-back will not only increase flow, but will also drop more weight than an axle-back (which if you get cheap, might actually be heavier than your existing setup).

Your upgrade path sounds very similar to what I am planning (though I am planning to do it _much_ later). Personally, I think you should approach someone at Buschur and just ask them about your plans and see if they can give any suggestions. I've heard nothing but good things about them.

I am planning a driveline fluid change with Redline MT-90 and Redline 75W90 soon. I will report results once that's done. Would love to compare that to NEO RHD

I am not an employee of Buschur, nor am I associated with them in any way except that they are the front-runner for my future mod vendor

 

I used red line in my eclipse as do many others and have heard nothing of the problems you mention. It is great stuff for the trans axel, you can really notice it when the trans is cold but it feels smoother all the time. I am affraid to stray from dealer stock fluids for the center and rear diffs on the Evo. My car seems to shift fine as is but if it develops some attitude this winter I'll dump in some red line.

I fabricated a baffel to hold open the flap valve in the rear can and there is very little chabge in sound level. If you remove the can completley the exhaust is only somewhat louder. I have read about gains of 10 HP... I'd like to see proof.

Consider using 98 octane fuel, I do and it makes a significant difference to the way the engine spools. Call around to the petroleum wholesalers near you to see who sells it I get it for $3 a gallon (91 is at $2.30). I f you do run some 98 I would really love to hear from you about what you observe on your boost gauge.

I assume you are talking about a car capable of low 13s but are not actually planning to drag with your stock clutch.

Good luck and congrats on the new little one. I had to give up my Vette from my first one but she was worth it.

 

Whatup,

Well I will autox some, drag race occasionally, and maybe hit some road courses. I didn't mean to imply that I would not drag race at all, but I'm just looking for a particular level of perf (a low 13 second car) without drag racing as my central focus.

I hear you about modding cars, but I know I'll never be able to leave a car stock.

I had a high compression and big toda cams in my Integra GSR sedan, but had problems with the car.

I moved onto an Audi A4 1.8T, because I wanted an AWD turbo car (no more FWD!). It was easy with an ecu upgrade to get about ~40 more hp, but when you only start at 150 it wasn't enough. =) It would have cost too much and taken the car too far down the path I had gone before to improve braking, perf, and whatnot, so here I am with the EVO. It's already pretty fast, and some moderate mods should be "just right".

Quote:

Also, I've heard about Redline fluids pitting the gears in DSM's, thats why I used GM syncromesh in my GSX. I actually talked to the service manager at the dealership I got the evo from and he said that often on the first and second gen dsm's they used GM syncromesh themselves. That surprised the hell out of me.

Hmmmm,

I know there was a lot of controversy on the WRX boards about Redline, but it seemed to be from using a GL-4 fluid (MT90) in the gearbox which specifies GL-5. I've seen other positive experiences with Redline and I've had first hand experience with RHD. I'll post my findings.

Thanks!

FB

 

Hey man,

well I was considering getting a $50 custom pipe from a muffler shop to replace the muffler and exhaust from the axle back. People (Shiv) have posted that removing the muffler is worth ~10 HP by itself. Also, it's not supposed to be too loud with no muffler at all. The pipe would just serve to let the exhaust exit where stock exits, so there is less reverberation below the car.

The Works exhale goes along this principle and saves approx 13 lbs, so weight should be about the same or even a decent saving as long as I don't use super heavy piping, heh.

I may stop by there soon and see what the guys say... I will also disconnect the exhaust at the rear axle to see how it sounds.

Take care,

FB

 

Thanks for the feedback and the kind wishes.

I'll look into the higher octane as well. Also, if I get an SAFC or SAFCII down the line, I'll try to dyno and see how my custom exhaust does (if I go that route).

Take care,

FB

 

I agree.... wait and save for a catback u will be MUCH better off. AMS is my favorite, or RMR.

 

I really like the sound of the AMS per that clip. I had a Forge on my Audi and it was nice and deep, but too quiet. My eventual plan is definitely full exhaust from the turbo-back, but we'll have to see how finances shape up. I am eager to try this budget custom pipe for a little better perf for minimal coin. But, if I take the muffler off and it sounds terrible, I'll have to reconsider, heh.

FB