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Evo GeneralDiscuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums.
Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
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Nooooo, I feel your pain, its not as bad as a spun bearing but my cyl 3 has low compression and its been drinking oil like crazy. About a quart every 300 miles or so I'm looking into a 2.3 rebuild with .040" over pistons this time...
Found out the reason why my Evo was making low power and and missing terribly on the Dyno and street. Cracked AMS VSR Intake Manifold. So my Evo IX MR was not making power and could only be tuned rich. Turns out the issue was the AMS VSR Intake manifold I got a couple of years back. Wouldn't even hold 2 PSI before it would leak.
I should be able to weld it but I'm out my original tuning fee and now have to pull it, send it out to get welded & Pressure tested, and then put it back on and pay for the tune again. I'd put the OEM Intake Manifold back on but I had to modify my Intercooler Piping to fit this VSR so I am now committed. I run a ton of AMS parts on my Evo this is the first failure I have experienced except the Odyssey battery failure bull crap which you have to install to pit their piping which admittedly is the shortest and fits the best.
You can see the bubble forming lower on the crack while pressurized.
Closeup of the crack and filtered to see the crack more clearly. Welds are beautiful no idea why it cracked.
Found out the reason why my Evo was making low power and and missing terribly on the Dyno and street. Cracked AMS VSR Intake Manifold. So my Evo IX MR was not making power and could only be tuned rich. Turns out the issue was the AMS VSR Intake manifold I got a couple of years back. Wouldn't even hold 2 PSI before it would leak.
I should be able to weld it but I'm out my original tuning fee and now have to pull it, send it out to get welded & Pressure tested, and then put it back on and pay for the tune again. I'd put the OEM Intake Manifold back on but I had to modify my Intercooler Piping to fit this VSR so I am now committed. I run a ton of AMS parts on my Evo this is the first failure I have experienced except the Odyssey battery failure bull crap which you have to install to pit their piping which admittedly is the shortest and fits the best. You can see the bubble forming lower on the crack while pressurized. Closeup of the crack and filtered to see the crack more clearly. Welds are beautiful no idea why it cracked.
Video below shows it bubbling while pressurized.
Good catch for sure. Being that the mani is a fabricated piece vs cast, maybe this mani was heat flexing under load & when getting hot expanded & failed the weld?
Good catch for sure. Being that the mani is a fabricated piece vs cast, maybe this mani was heat flexing under load & when getting hot expanded & failed the weld?
No Idea, but again it explains why I am not making power and the car runs like crap. AMS is normally top notch and they switched their design to Cast so I bet this is the reason why. Sucks for me but them's the breaks.
Modified a 2019 LE (red stitch) auto shift knob for my DD RS.
Also got tired of the infinite darkness of the RS interior lighting so I added a 2018 mitsu dome light assembly.
Modified a 2019 LE (red stitch) auto shift knob for my DD RS.
Also got tired of the infinite darkness of the RS interior lighting so I added a 2018 mitsu dome light assembly.
That light assembly bit sounds interesting as all get up! Pics?
That light assembly bit sounds interesting as all get up! Pics?
Sure thing. I didn't take any pictures in process, but I removed the mounting frame from a lancer (drilled out the spot welds) and used it upside down for a hole-pattern. I then anchored the front two spot welds holes to the front roof support. The rear anchor points are below outer roof skin, so rather than fool with mounting it and risk dropping eurathane on the interior etc, I took two pieces of high density foam and slid them above it, tension holding it in place and quiet.
The reason for the two-tone... I wanted the down-light feature from there newer outlanders but the dome light only comes in beige and black that I could see. So to match the Evo interior I used a 2012 lancer outer frame since it was available in grey. The center section for now will have to be beige until I decided if I want to try to paint match it or vinyl or what.
Pardon the filth, I haven't cleaned... Anything, really lol.
It's actually pretty easy(I got 2 apart right now, about to reassemble) just start from the bottom and work your way up. It's like what, maybe 20-24 screws/bolts holding the entire dash in place? Bunch of how tos but I said screw it and just started undoing stuff and yoinking parts. You don't need to remove steering wheel but it would make big dash assembly easier to remove. Do bag all the hardware and label for ease of mind. I got a paint stick and wrote locations and what not on backs of things. Take lots of pics during tear-down.
Dig in and have fun!
. Being that the mani is a fabricated piece vs cast, maybe this mani was heat flexing under load & when getting hot expanded & failed the weld?
