with the FP RED and Black the need for a 35R is less and less lately

 

depends on ur goals. stock frames r good. i just like having limitless options with my t3 setup. where as stock frames u have FP or CBRD.

 

OP engine might need a comp test, engine might be bad

 

i agree

 

stock frames are cool, but for the same price as a t3 and more power capabilities as you upgrade you cant go wrong

 

wow awesome numbers havent dynoed mine yet but this gives me a good indication

 

lol... I always love the FP Red/Black vs. 35R subjects. The FP turbos are good for cheap bolt on setups that want to make a bunch of low/mid range power and torque. Up top, they fail just like the stock turbo does.

- 35R is ball bearing and oil/water cooled so it's more reliable for starters.
- Holds boost throughout the power band.
- makes more on the top end.
- Is easily capable of 600whp-700whp given the setup, fuel, aggressiveness of tune, etc.
- Built 35R cars are worth more in general than stock frame turbo cars given the right supporting mods.
- Nothing beats the sound of a big DBB turbo spooling up, especially if you have an external wastegate.

The FP Black is the only turbo that would even relatively compare to a 35R but even still it'll fall off uptop where as the 35R will hold strong. It's also easier on your motor specifically because the 35R makes less torque than a red or a black usually.

I'm a die hard big turbo guy.. The stock frame turbo thing is cool if you're just wanting to build a torquey road race car but for highway/drag racing I'd definitely rather have a big turbo setup. And if you compare either of those to the new HTA3582 or 3586 or similar turbo.. then game over for the FP guys because both of those turbos consistently make at least 650-750whp.

 

Sorry about my "who cares about cheap FP turbos" rant.. I haven't dyno'd my car yet as I am still waiting to install my valvesprings/retainers, BF272 cams, and second fuel pump, but I did run my buddies HX40 2G GST who made 570whp on a dyno that reads between a MD and a dynojet and I stayed right next to him until I had to shift into 5th gear.. then he started passing me. : (.

I was on 35R .82 ar @ 28psi, stock head, stock valvetrain, stock intake and tb, with BC 272 cams, RNR 3" fmic, AEM EMS, E85, 2.0L, 10:1cr, 2.5" IC piping, no intake pipe on the turbo, AWD motorports T3 Manifold, Tial 44mm External WG, Tial 50mm bov.

Running 12.2/12.3 AFR and 16 degrees of timing all the way across the power band.

Wait til I turn the boost up to 35-40psi, throw some more timing at it, throw in my new cams, and am revving to 9k+... Will be completely different car. On the highway I bet I'd take almost any FP Red/FP black car to school.

 

im running a 35r, and as soon as my car's out the shop in a few days, and i finish breaking in my clutch, its going in for a tune. With the 2.3 stroker im hoping to hit 500awhp+

dj

 

damn my car better make more power- 417 is like baby food for most of you guys haha

 

Agreed! The Black is plain sick! I just want more power

I don't have a problem with topend power and made sick power with my FP Black on 25psi. That is 3586 territory but spools about 1,000rpm sooner.

Attachment 339196

Mikey

 

double post

 

i agree with whitepwr, fpblack only good for instant power, it will be out of breath up top. 35R will be much efficient turbo cuz of its larger frame

 

them 613 whp u are making are not the same as 35R 613. They are different horses . trust me on this mikey

 

You are right. My car at 613 vs 35R 613... My car would whoop its ***. A 35R at the same power level as my 613 would not beat me!

And before you try and argue like you always do, you are wrong so don't bother.

1) I have more tq
2) Faster Spool up
3) Faster Spool between gears
4) Beter response.

I'm really confused to where you get your logic, on EVERYTHING leon!!!