Hey everyone I drove to Denver yesterday for a tune and ended up with horrible results. My mods are
DC Sports Downpipe/Test Pipe
Megan Exhaust Manifold
Megan o2 Dump
Ebay Catback
Injen Hard Piping w/Intake
Forge DV
Wally 255
RC 1000cc Injectors
FP Red
Hallman Pro RX MBC

The first pull made 169whp, blew a coupler off.
Second Pull broke 220whp by a hair, tuner and mechanic checked everything nothing looks loose
Third pull made 229whp, started a small coolant leak and we pulled it off the dyno.

We checked it over, fixed the coolant leak, found 1 hose clamp that was a little ****-eyed but never got back on the dyno. Looked at the data logging and it showed 3.5 pounds of boost. The turbo is screaming is there a sensor thats not showing boost? I just had the waterpump/timing belt done, the tuner thinks maybe one of the cams is off a tooth.

Im going to pull the piping off and triple check everything and make sure the cams are timed right. If the timing is right and I cant find a hole in a coupler whats next? Im very dissapointed in my car atm. Thanks

 

I would say double check everything boost leak, compression check, plugs. I would also say go with a ported stock exhaust manifold it has proven to make more power than the megan manifold. Also how long have you had the manifold does it possibly have a crack in it?

 

No car didnt run, everything was new right before the dyno. Has new plugs that we put in at the shop. I thought I read somewhere you can do a boost leak test. Is this true? If so how do you do it, Im at work so I cant really be searching threads for hours if someone can redirect me to a thread?

 

Go to Lowe's/Home Depot or whatever is most convenient and get a plastic PVC cap. Usually if you have approx 2.5" inlet then a 2" cap, usually if you have a 3" inlet then maybe a 2.5" cap. They're sized differently than they are labelled. Anyhow, get a PVC cap that will fit into a silicone coupler on your turbo (that's where you'll be pressure testing from). Then go to Advance Auto or Pep Boys or whatever and get the heavy duty valve stems - they're the metal ones that actually have a nut to tighten them down (as opposed to the ones that are all rubber and press/pressure fitted/held). The heavy duty ones are nice because they require a less accurate drilling measurement and tend to seem easier to fit into PVC. After you've gotten the appropriate cap and valve stem you obviously assemble the stem into the cap and then clamp it into your silicone coupler. I'd generally suggest to use ~20psi regulated from an air compressor. It WILL leak through because you're going to have open valves and such, but you can still have enough time to hear things. Use soapy water if there's a spot you think is leaking, but aren't sure. You can also use carb cleaner and spray it at a suspected leak while the car is running and see if it effects idle. I think that covers a lot of it...

 

Awesome thank you! I will check that for sure after work. I was trying to figure out if there was a magical spot where all the valves were closed or how to do it. I will post up the results

 

Let us know hopefully it is something small!

 

I also forgot to ask but does heat wrap smoke? On the third pull the car started to smoke from under the engine, and when I flog it a bit and stop theres smoke coming from under the car as well. It doesnt do it when I cruise, only after seeing boost for a bit. I dont know if I have a exhaust leak that opens up or if its just the header wrap smoking when the downpipe gets hot. I have a sh*tty donut that came with my ebay tbe exhaust that I used but it was smaller then the o2 dump so I carved a bit out of it but it is still restricting the o2. I know this isnt good but is it a huge problem? I ordered a OEM gasket wednesday and should have it soon, will replace that.

The donut blocking off the o2 wouldnt be worth 200 horsepower though would it? Another thing I had to half *** was the turbo to j-pipe. I had someone working on the car at first and when I got it back it was in pieces and I didnt have a gasket for the turbo->j-pipe so I used some cork paper gasket and made my own, I used gasket maker on the j-pipe side as well. I will check that area really well when doing the boost leak down test. But again even if that was leaking would it be enough to cause such low horsepower?

 

The gasket could be part of the problem but I wouldn't think would be the whole problem. Make sure you check it carefully when you do the boost leak test

 

Ok did the boost leak down test, found a leak. It was at the very left of the manifol(passenger side). A vacuum hose popped off, got that fixed. Hooked up my boost guage and it was reading 15lbs, maybe this is why it was so low on power? I turned it up to 19 and the car feels a lot better then before. Still gunna check timing tomorrow and replace the exhaust donut.

 

Forgot to add, my friend that knows a lot more about turbo cars rode in it and said my WGA is funky. At 18lbs-ish it flutters like crazy. I think it may have the stock one on it. Could this be another big issues? Thanks

 

Wastegate could just need adjusted! Hopefully that boost leak fixes most of the problems!

 

Ok another newb question sorry. How do I go about adjusting the wga? Its tight without any slop on it.

 

You dont need to adjust the wastegate actuator. What color was the smoke? What PSI is your MBC set to? I really think you have another problem than a boost leak.

 

Yep, start there. Your engine should be running good before it ever sees a dyno.

 

Black, it was rich. Im getting my wideband in tonight so I can monitor my AFRs. I have the controller in like 9 turns, boost guage is reading 19 steady. Im checking the cam timing tonight