why changing from 2.3 to 2.0?
why changing from 2.3 to 2.0?
so i am currently an a fully built 2.1 and was planning on doing a 2.3 built as a back-up, but now as i look over the for-sale thread i see everyone going from their 2.3 and 2.4 builts to 2.0 or 2.1 builts. it is freaking me out
why? i want t know whats the reason for this change
is there any relevant info on this?

why? i want t know whats the reason for this change

is there any relevant info on this?
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Not being able to rev high is not an issue on the long rod 2.4 configurations that people are going with now.
It surprising the amount of people I've spoken to on PM that believe a 2.4 isn't a good idea (esp. in the long run). But most posts you see sing the 2.4's praises.
Sorry I have no clue why. I haven't seen this trend (or paid attention).
It surprising the amount of people I've spoken to on PM that believe a 2.4 isn't a good idea (esp. in the long run). But most posts you see sing the 2.4's praises.
Sorry I have no clue why. I haven't seen this trend (or paid attention).
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Im sure its a matter of fad or opinion as with most message boards HOWEVER:
From an engineering stand point there is no debate, simply put. The stock bore and stroke is very close to square 85mmx88mm. So by design it can turn a higher optimal amount of rpms.
If you throw in a 102mm or greater rod the stresses are going to be higher, you will gain torque down low but the stresses on the engine will be higher further up the rpm band.
This is why you see drag teams "destroke" thier engines (moving towards square) to get some relyability when they are turning 10-12000 rpms. @ 30-40 psi
Basicly the power produced by a small displacement increase is less that being able to turn 2-3000 more rpms relyably. (by relyable I mean getting 10 -15 more passes per season)
Does this matter at the 3-400hp mark? probably not. However alot of pro drag teams think it matters at 800-1200hp.
From an engineering stand point there is no debate, simply put. The stock bore and stroke is very close to square 85mmx88mm. So by design it can turn a higher optimal amount of rpms.
If you throw in a 102mm or greater rod the stresses are going to be higher, you will gain torque down low but the stresses on the engine will be higher further up the rpm band.
This is why you see drag teams "destroke" thier engines (moving towards square) to get some relyability when they are turning 10-12000 rpms. @ 30-40 psi
Basicly the power produced by a small displacement increase is less that being able to turn 2-3000 more rpms relyably. (by relyable I mean getting 10 -15 more passes per season)
Does this matter at the 3-400hp mark? probably not. However alot of pro drag teams think it matters at 800-1200hp.
You can go with a slightly taller tire or a gearing change to offset the lower rev limit. What is often glossed over is the fact our transmissions shift worse as the RPMs climb. Sticking within the factory rev range makes for a happier shifting trans.
At the 400-500hp range which isn't anything special these days, Id pick a 2.4l hands down. A car with that power is probably driven on the street often and the off boost torque, which my car spends 95%+ of its time, is unbelievably better. My 2.4 Talon absolutely kills my Evo in off boost torque.
My personal opinion, unless you're all out drag and need the revs then a 2.4 works great. More cubes = Mas Bueno!
At the 400-500hp range which isn't anything special these days, Id pick a 2.4l hands down. A car with that power is probably driven on the street often and the off boost torque, which my car spends 95%+ of its time, is unbelievably better. My 2.4 Talon absolutely kills my Evo in off boost torque.
My personal opinion, unless you're all out drag and need the revs then a 2.4 works great. More cubes = Mas Bueno!
You can go with a slightly taller tire or a gearing change to offset the lower rev limit. What is often glossed over is the fact our transmissions shift worse as the RPMs climb. Sticking within the factory rev range makes for a happier shifting trans.
At the 400-500hp range which isn't anything special these days, Id pick a 2.4l hands down. A car with that power is probably driven on the street often and the off boost torque, which my car spends 95%+ of its time, is unbelievably better. My 2.4 Talon absolutely kills my Evo in off boost torque.
My personal opinion, unless you're all out drag and need the revs then a 2.4 works great. More cubes = Mas Bueno!
At the 400-500hp range which isn't anything special these days, Id pick a 2.4l hands down. A car with that power is probably driven on the street often and the off boost torque, which my car spends 95%+ of its time, is unbelievably better. My 2.4 Talon absolutely kills my Evo in off boost torque.
My personal opinion, unless you're all out drag and need the revs then a 2.4 works great. More cubes = Mas Bueno!
simply put if you pair the 2.4 with a good turbo say hta green or hks 7400. they are already spool happy put the displacement hold on because the tq will be insane the intense feeling is tq not whp so if your looking for a seat gripper early/quickly then you cant beat it. If you want more power but soon get a bigger turbo. DONT forget you CAN drag with a 2.4 mike showed everybody on this board that running 9.33 with a fp black on std 2.4. you can set your rev to like 8k but you will never need it as all the power you need will hit before that. NOW dont forget the LR2.4 will not make more power then the std2.4 but better rod ratio so it can rev higher again if your a rev nut. I have heard mikey(blkcarbonevo) rev his to 9k several times.
Besides as you stated you have a 2.1 not to much more different then a 2.0. Once you ride in a well equipped 2.4 evo it will put all this aside.
Exactly what slowboi & dallas replied. I also think that people don't understand how to set up their car for what they intend on using it for 90% of the time. I see countless posts of people stating I want a "fast response daily driver street monster". So the're going to a built 4g64 destroked 2.1L w/ a FP Red so they can rev it to the moon...
Im happy as hell with my motor, but after Im done with this Im definitely going to go with a LR 2.0. The 2.4 is a pretty high strung motor, with head gasket issues particularly.
I just saw the buschur motor and stuff on the buschurracing.com and its 5 grand for just the block and 3 grand for the 2.4 engine kit, I want it but thats out of my price range but my plan was to get a wreck evo and build it. here's the link if anyone wants to check it out. your see the list of engines and check out the 2.4L kits and block.
https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...Path=21_25_111

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...Path=21_25_111






