im in the process of a wire tuck and want to find the best/CLEANEST way to shorten or lengthen the wires as best as possible

with that being said.. im looking to un-pin my factory wires from each of the factory connectors in the engine harness(engine sensors etc).. and cut to length so that each harness connector is the perfect length to its destination and has no extra slack.. i also want to replace the factory loom with braided loom and by un-pinning the pins it would make it just that much easier. i would rather not have to cut and solder unless i really did HAVE to.

i was wondering if anyone would know of a place that sells factory sized pins that fit into the oem connectors (coilpacks, cam, crank, o2, injectors, tps, map.. etc)

any info is welcome

 

You will want extra slack. Things move, adjust themselves, etc., and if **** hits the fan ever and you get in an accident, that slack will save you from having to rewire a lot of stuff

If you're planning to do this without cutting and soldering I'd venture as to say you're doing it the wrong way. Soldering will ensure the best connection you can get when lengthening a wire. Simply using an in-line connector to lengthen something isn't the correct way to do it.

To shorten wires just wrap them and zip-tie in a place that's out of sight. no point in cutting/modifying a wire that's too long when it's easy to hide slack

 

de-pinning the factory sensors is a PITA and finding replacement pins is damn near impossible since they do NOT have Mitsu part #'s. This is not the way we are doing our harnesses at all. We are cutting the wires to the sock sensors, etc., using Mil Spec Dura Seal splices and special crimpers to connect the custom Haltech wiring harness we have with the sock wires coming out of the sensors, then each sensor end is sealed and the whole thing is wrapped with Raychem DR-25 and DR-25TW heat shrink tubing.

 

im not planning to lengthen anything or use the cheap inline connector method.. if i have to lengthen i WILL solder and heatshrink as i always do.. the reason im saying i want to shorten is because i will coming from directly under the intake manifold and slip to each sensor from there.. vs going along the firewall (??) then back over ontop of the transmission and to its destination.. seems like waste of wire. and im trying to show as little of the wire harness as possible

 

Do you have the harness out of the car?

 

basically.. its just ran on top of the motor right now

 

so it's not a wire-tuck, per-say, but more of a wire organization

if you're just goign to shorten wires, then you can clip and resolder them together. i'm confused as to what you're looking for pins for

 

He wanted to avoid soldering. So if was able to get some of the male and female factory pins, he could then cut the wires to the length he wanted and crimp on the factory pin (whatever style was on it originally), then reinsert the newly crimped pin back into the factory connector. Unless of course you take the entire harness out and do something like I did? Looking at my connectors again, there are also different size pins for female and males. It's not just a one size fits all male/female pin.

I dont think your going to be able to get away from cutting and soldering the way your doing it. I believe trying to aquire the factory crimp on pins is going to be a major PITA and $$$$$$.

 

thanks for wording it better.. but yea i see that.. i guess im going to have to go the route you went or do the cut/solder

 

Any particular reason everybody seems to be more fond of solder type splicing than compression type splicing? Where I work, all splices are done with compression type connectors. Granted, this is with much larger conductors than is seen in a car.

 

i can source almost all of the OEM housings/sockets/grommets for most all engines (subaru, mitsubishi, honda, suzuki, etc)... can also source custom shrink tube labels.

-franz

 

spoolinup.com sells factory pins