you can't hear a boost leak when you're driving. only way to tell is to do a boost leak test... anything else is pure speculation.

 

this is interesting. you 'should' be able to pressurize your intake system as high as you want assuming you have enough CFM in your compressor. the fact that you can't do this leads me to believe you have a big leak somewhere.

I had a similar issue a while ago and it was the EGR solenoid hose that popped off. Took a long time to find it because almost as soon as I would pressurize the intake track the air would leak out. I eventually had to wet my hand and feel around the engine bay for the rushing air while a buddy kept the air hose on the leak tester.

 

your best bet op since you cant figure it out is start at the clamps off the compressor outlet, loosen each up spray hairspray on the piping reinstall couplers, make sure the clamps are on the inside of the flange, tighten down move on to the next one, keep goin to the intercooler, once youve passed that go onto the other side up the piping to the tb...make sure to give the hairspray a min or so to dry on each coupler...other then that they shouldnt be coming loose, now one thing ive gotta ask is you are on tbolt clamps right? my other question is your icp stock, aftermarket? if aftermarket is it aluminum or stainless steel??

 

I have had that hose pop off in teh past. It threw a check engine light. I put it back and zip tied it so that is still on there.. I am due to swap out injectors but wanted to source this leak before i did. So will recheck them.

I have stock UICP. I have an ETS Lower and ETS 3.5 core. I have the stock braided hoses on the UICP. I borrowed a friends set and swapped them out. I have tbolt clamps on the TB but worm clamps on the other hoses. I did use hair spray on them. I have had them on and off 20 times over the past few days trying to figure out the leak.

I have another MBC i am going to try to see if its that. and swap the 2 vacuum hoses going into the MBC. My pancake compressor holds 100psi. For some reason I can't get the system to pressurize past 20psi. but yet I don't hear any leaks. I am so frustrated with this issue cause I can boost fine but at that 6200rpm mark it leaks. IDK stumped.

I appreciate all the suggestions...

 

from what you just said op, sounds like either your stock braided hoses have a leak in the uicp, or you dont have the uicp correctly seated with the clamps on the piping flange... i have seen pinholes in that braided hoses that often go overlooked and are hard to see....best bet is to save up for an uicp.

As for not holding pressure, two things one disconnect the vacuum hose to the bov. The other you need to cap off the boost controller vacuum hose as well put a nail or somethin in the compressor hole to boost controller vacuum line, also you need to try and plug the vent hose from valve cover to intake hose. Those all will bleed air off during the test. as for testing your ic piping with the boost leak test, try and find a close ended piece of pvc pipe and insert that in the piping where it connects to the tb, that way your testing your ic piping only and it wont have air escape out the engine.

 

Thanks you for your help. I just ordered some Silicone vac line. 4mm and 6mm so going to replace all vac lines. I want to keep my stock battery so no clue what UICP to get was just going to get the Samco hoses trying to source them now and see if that helps any. I have the hoses seated pretty high up so they don't blow off. Over the bead. I had them blowing off in the past not since i have moved them. Also if I upgrade the UICP i will have to ditch the stock airbox as well wont I? I just don't have a ton of cash to dump into this. The Evo is my Daily driver so idk. car really has been leak free...

 

maybe the bov is leaking a bit it seems

 

i thought that to. it almost has that sort of noise.. But not sure. Its the Stock MR DV

 

This is most likely your problem. Even a crush stock DV will start leaking at 24lbs. and will be audible. If you not running SD, the new Tial Rec. would be a great choice.

 

Car has been running like a champ. Only change was the radiator so idk I will look into the Tial but won't i have to change piping?

 

Are you still running the stock airbox? If so, I am relatively certain your issue is coming from the intake snorkel. If the snorkel is in place but missing the clips that hold it to the frame, it will move creating a suction against the hood, choking the engine/turbo causing a huge drop in boost and a noise similar to that you're hearing. If you're not on the stock intake, disregard but this sounds exactly like your problem. My buddy was experiencing the same thing and after replacing the BOV, WGA, and doing many boost leak tests, we finally found the issue was with the intake.

EDIT: looks like you are on the stock intake. Pull out the snorkel and see if the problem continues. If it's fixed make sure to get some new clips and fasten it to the frame.

 

OMG if this works you rock. I broke the clip holding the snorkel so it's not being held on. I am going to pull it when I get home see if noise is still there. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned

This WORKED.. Thanks man.. So SO SO SO appreciate it... AWESOME!!!!!

 

Had the same problem, fixed my issue of not going over 24lbs and dumping boost to redline. I thought it was the tru boost solenoid, it wasn't now holding boost to 26psi and holding till redling -2 to 3 psi on stock turbo,ICP,BOV and intake. GREAT POST!!!!!
REMO TUNE

 

From listening to your video I think mine had the same issue. It turned out to be a small hole in one on the bottom of the lines going to my MBC. Hope this helps

 

Please read a couple of posts back, the OP fixed his problem already, there was no leak, it was the stock snorkel not being properly kept in place. Also, thread is now more than a year old