How to Properly Care for your FP Turbo, Info From Robert at FP

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Mar 14, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #61  
isnt there a certain level of redundancy doing both an hla and the oil pan upgrade? or is the oil pan mod more for odd cornering g's or osmething
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Mar 14, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #62  
The oil pan upgrade keeps oil accessible during hard cornering and acceleration.
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Apr 10, 2012 | 06:51 AM
  #63  
Hey guys, quick question. This sticky is very informative and I have learned alot from reading through each post. Now, my question...what are normal parameters for oil pressure at idle, cruising, and wot. I have just installed my fp red w/ oil feed from the pan and an AEM pressure guage w/ ams remote line. The car idles at around 16psi warm, and around 60-70psi at cruise, havent hit wot yet, breaking the turbo in gently. Are these numbers normal? Thanks in advance
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Apr 10, 2012 | 06:57 AM
  #64  
You don't break in a turbo. It just goes. At Idle the turbo is barely spinning and at WOT the turbo has max oil pressure.
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Apr 10, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #65  
Quote: You don't break in a turbo. It just goes. At Idle the turbo is barely spinning and at WOT the turbo has max oil pressure.
I understand that a turbo isnt spinning at a high speed at idle and is at max pressure and rpms at wot. My question is what are typical oil pressures at these 3 different engine speeds. As far as breaking the turbo in, is there no mileage recommendation before I really get on it?
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Apr 10, 2012 | 08:20 AM
  #66  
Quote: I understand that a turbo isnt spinning at a high speed at idle and is at max pressure and rpms at wot. My question is what are typical oil pressures at these 3 different engine speeds. As far as breaking the turbo in, is there no mileage recommendation before I really get on it?
Turbo just goes man, no such thing as turbo break in. Search for Base Oil pressure.
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Apr 10, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #67  
Quote: Turbo just goes man, no such thing as turbo break in. Search for Base Oil pressure.
Just to verify, someone I talked to at FP said the same thing - there's no turbo break-in. I thought it'd be good for the metal to go through some heat cycles but I guess it is all set from the get-go
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Apr 10, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #68  
They are all tested at FP at extreme temps before they are sent out. If you have a JB or a BB just make sure it has a proper oil supply. That's it.
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Jun 19, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #69  
Bump
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Jul 3, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #70  
That is great advice! especially since I'm putting on a new FP turbo right now!
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Jul 26, 2012 | 12:17 AM
  #71  
yeah, this was very good info/advice. deffinitely worth the read
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Jul 26, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #72  
nice
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Nov 14, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #73  
Great info in here I'm new to evos and have been looking to see what mods I want to do, on my Subaru I had a FP HTA68 and it was awesome. They few times I've had to get ahold of FP the had great customer service and easy to deal with my next turbo will be an FP as well
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Nov 16, 2012 | 05:12 AM
  #74  
If its possible to answer this question, but GENERALLY speaking, at what boost level would FP consider each of their turbos beyond their "safe" zone where he states about Turbo RPMs and EGT? what would FP recommend for a psi limit that would put you under the max turbo RPMS and EGT ratings, on say a Green,Red, and black on a track car that will see 20 min sessions?

I know there are many variables such as tuning, but lets assume a mild tune. If EGT are a big issue, would a track car benefit from a larger turbo, like say a GT30 over a stock frame, to keep EGT down?
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Nov 19, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #75  
Very good info here.
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