Originally Posted by High_psi

I wanted to draw attention to my thread and dyno pulls. My main concern is the longevity of this turbo. I have used the FP high Pressure Oil line and the proper AMSoil. I have attached both my install thread and my Dyno thread; I was hoping you could look and comment to make sure everything is OK as I plan to use this turbo for the life of the car.

Originally Posted by Robert at FP

To get the longest lifespan from the turbo do not operate it above 1650F EGT and do not operate it above 146,000rpm and do not allow the engine oil pump to ever suck air instead of oil during a launch or hard right hand corner. But even with these conditions met, the turbocharger should only last a couple of years of daily usage before the materials just degrade and fail, probably will not last as long as a car does, sorry Things just dont glow red, spin 150krpm, and contain 40psi of pressure without eventually exploding or breaking or melting or cracking etc. Its a wear item like a clutch or brakes or tires, not a permanent structural item.

Thanks for the links, I am glad that you are happy with your turbo, and please let us know if there is ever a problem or question that you think we might be able to help you with!

Originally Posted by High_psi

Thanks for the direct reply. I guess that these turbos won’t last as long as a BB unit. Why does the stock unit last so much longer? How long will min last at sub 30PSI and pump gas? Will there be a BB option in the future? Would that make it last longer? I just really don’t want this thing dying. It feels great and the car really pulls. How do I know if it is spinning 146,000 RPM’s? You say it will only last a couple of years, does that mean two?

Originally Posted by Robert at FP

The stock turbo is like a 12v light bulb with 14v applied to it, no problem. When we build them up to a red or a black, its like running the same 12v bulb on 24v - the bulb just dont last as long. MHI designs the TD05H frame turbo as a 275hp turbo, we pump them up as high as 680bhp capability - they just wont last as long, sorry. 1900F EGT and excessive speed destroy BB turbos just the same as a plain bearing one, not a whole lot of difference there other than the BB one can survive with short intervals of zero oil pressure where a plain bearing turbo wont. All turbos will die, it is not possible to design a turbo for racing that will not be damaged by the racing, much like it is impossible to design a brake rotor that doesnt get worn out by the braking. Even $15,000 porsche ceramics require periodic replacement. Our GT3076HTA are used in Europe for F2 racing, it is the approved turbo for the series, they are replaced regularly just as the other wear parts on the car are replaced regularly.

Couple of years is two years yes, but I have seen our EVOReds and Blacks run for 1 weeekend and be fully consumed, or run for 20k miles and still going strong. Depends how much heat and speed they see really. I have seen Garrett GT35R burn down in one track session the same way, speed and heat is going to make all the difference. So if you dont know what your EGT is, and you dont have any idea what speed it is running at, you may want to look into it. The only way to build a turbo that lasts as long as the car is to design both the turbo and the car and then not modify the system for the entire life of the car, like a turbodiesel mercedes for example. That way the turbo never operates higher than its max operating speed and the EGT is never higher than design temp. But when you start putting turbos on just about anything tuned by just about anybody run just about anyway possible while all the while trying to make it go as fast as it can go and them some, you will exceed some design parameters that will result in shortened lifespan.

Put either a black or a 35R on my hot test stand at 1900F and 160krpm and they both last about 30 min max give or take a few minutes, they just are not meant to operate that hot, Inconel has a max temp rating of only 1650F.

Hope that helps answer a feww questions for you, let me know if you'd like to discuss thing further, I am really good and talking on the phone, way better than typing, give me a call

972 984 1800

Originally Posted by Robert at FP

By all means you are welcome to share anything I have told you, just be warned, there are a lot of haters on the forums looking to bump up their post count by talking trash about things they barely understand. We have really tried to educate our customers by writing official docs on oiling etc, sending this info out to customers, adding the info in with the turbo packaging to ensure people see it etc, but alot of times I dont think people read it or even worse some people say we are just full of crap and oil doesnt matter. Less than 15% of our customers even return their product registration cards for their new turbos.

Originally Posted by olmoscd

Looks like good info. I'm not so sure about having EGT, much less a compressor speed gauge in my street Evo. Just use the proper oil and keep it within PR efficiency, I guess.

Originally Posted by High_PSI

Also if you have some boost leaks your turbo could be spinning at 30PSI to reach 25PSI. It may be a good idea to run two boost gauges, one right off the turbo and one at the manifold. It sounds excessive I know but if you wana be safe, why not?

Originally Posted by thepoint4life23

Does any one know how to keep the temp down.