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My 2011 CBRD Long block Build

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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #16  
blackenedwings's Avatar
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From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by CBRD
as far as the 2.0 or 2.3, it really depends on your needs- what you want to spend- the crank being utilized etc-

we are using piston coatings (playing with combustion and oil shedding coatings in race motors) and so forth which adds a little to the cost as it is-

cb
Did the OP get any of the fancy coatings? I've heard people are doing cool things with asymmetrical pistons, oil shedding coatings etc.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #17  
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From: york, pa 17402
he has side coatings- and coated race bearings-

but no oil shedding coatings-

the testing gets done in our own projects--

Ill post information and findings on it as it becomes available-

cb
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #18  
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From: SF
Originally Posted by Hardware
Back in June my stock block threw a rod so it was back to the drawing board.

My setup was

Ported 84MM FP Red /FP 84MM Intake / SE OMG Air Filter
BR Street FMIC LICP/UICP
BR TBE
BR MBC
BR Ported Intake/Ex Mani/TB
PTE 1000's
HKS 272's
Walbro 255
MR BOV
Exedy Twin HD
Megan O2
ARP Headstuds

This setup put down around 359hp/319tq on CBRD's Dyno with a CBRD Tune at 26.1PSI on 93 octane. The car did NOT have a CBRD tune on it when the engine failed.

My original goal was 400hp on a MD. I no longer have a specific power goal in mind, I just want the car back on the road. Most likely it will provide more power than I need causing the 6spd to be the next weakest link. It never ends. :P

I'm fortunate to live fairly close to CBRD and I'm happy to say they will be doing this build for me. The process has been in motion for a few weeks now and if all goes well I'll have it back in a month. I took my time researching as I didn't want to rush into any decisions in this process and I'm confident that the 2.0 was the best choice for me.

Here's what's new this time around.

CBRD 2.0
CBRD Spec Head
GSC S2's
Synchronic DV
Perrin Air Filter
3 Port BC
COP (I might add this)

I can't wait to get Eva back. Unfortunately no pictures, but everyone love's CBRD ****. Maybe Chad will throw some in here at some point.

Doesnt the FP Red put out at least 425whp?
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:17 PM
  #19  
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From: Lancaster, PA.
Originally Posted by toyotabike
Doesnt the FP Red put out at least 425whp?
Sure it can if you have a strong motor and the proper supporting mods. My cams were holding me back and the MR BOV was probably leaking taking away some whp.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:22 PM
  #20  
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From: york, pa 17402
Originally Posted by toyotabike
Doesnt the FP Red put out at least 425whp?
sorry but that is a very broad comment-

hp numbers are relative-

what type of dyno
fuel
altitude
boost
supporting mods

etc

a normal bolt on turbo in the bbk-fp red range here on pump gas with a stock head on stock block is a 350-400whp setup-

cb
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:57 PM
  #21  
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From: Lancaster, PA.
Originally Posted by blackenedwings
Hmmm... I keep going back and forth between 2.0L and 2.3L in my mind. A built 2.0L would give me some more revs, but give up 11% torque. The OP is more of a drag racer, so no doubt the 2.0L will be awesome for him, but I'll have to give you a call and pick your brain sometime Chad.
Honestly I'm not a drag racer. I might take this to the track once or twice to have fun, but I've only ever been to the strip twice.

The recent engine failure is not something I want to go through often or ever again if possible. The 4G63 was designed by Mitsubishi Engineers after 1000's of hours of development utilizing the 88mm crank. In other words, the 4G63 was built around the 88mm crank.

When you use the 100mm crank you're putting additional pressure on the cylinder side walls from the different rod angle and that bothers me. Also you are getting higher piston speed because of the longer stroke putting more stress on the crank.

If you can afford to take a chance I'd personally do the 2.3. I don't have documented proof that the 2.3 is less reliable compared to the 2.0, but it's my opinion that 2.0 is safer.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #22  
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From: Columbia, MD
Originally Posted by Hardware
Honestly I'm not a drag racer. I might take this to the track once or twice to have fun, but I've only ever been to the strip twice.

The recent engine failure is not something I want to go through often or ever again if possible. The 4G63 was designed by Mitsubishi Engineers after 1000's of hours of development utilizing the 88mm crank. In other words, the 4G63 was built around the 88mm crank.

When you use the 100mm crank you're putting additional pressure on the cylinder side walls from the different rod angle and that bothers me. Also you are getting higher piston speed because of the longer stroke putting more stress on the crank.

If you can afford to take a chance I'd personally do the 2.3. I don't have documented proof that the 2.3 is less reliable compared to the 2.0, but it's my opinion that 2.0 is safer.
Yeah, I can certainly see the advantages of the 2.0L and I do love high revs (I own two rotaries :P) but I thought the primary reason the Evo motor stayed a 2.0L was due to WRC restrictions.

I've heard various thoughts on this, but I guess I would be curious what a time attack/road racing specialist shop would recommend for a competitive time attack build that will never see a drag strip.

While a 2.0L has the advantage of reduced side loading on the cylinder walls, it also has to sustain continued higher revs than the stroker motor which can reduce longevity as well. It seems like a number of the pro time attack level guys go with a 2.2L motor with a custom crankshaft. The 2.3L is simply easier/cheaper because you can use a 4G64 crankshaft.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #23  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Awesome to hear that you guys are building in house now. I'm sure your car is in great hands out there. I think you made the right choice on the 2.0.

I wonder if Chad has built any 4B11's yet...
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #24  
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From: york, pa 17402
Got some 4b11's coming along
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