Expensive TBE worth it?
Expensive TBE worth it?
Other than sound and look is there really any performance difference between say a HKS number or an ebay cheapy.
Just thought I'd ask cos it could save me like $600.
example,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-EVO-7-8...item1e66096f71
Cheers,
Just thought I'd ask cos it could save me like $600.
example,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-EVO-7-8...item1e66096f71
Cheers,
Those eBay cheapies aren't going to last. They say they are stainless stell and all that bull - but they will last just past the "warranty" the no name company offers and then fail miserably.
The ONLY exception is the SRS knock off of the RSR exhausts. They are like $225 shipped or something - I had one on my WRX and absolutely loved it and will be getting one soon for my Evo. The owner before me put on an eGay exhaust and guess what? It's rusted as fawk... it's maybe 2 years old, if that. It's got holes in it, sounds terrible.
The ONLY exception is the SRS knock off of the RSR exhausts. They are like $225 shipped or something - I had one on my WRX and absolutely loved it and will be getting one soon for my Evo. The owner before me put on an eGay exhaust and guess what? It's rusted as fawk... it's maybe 2 years old, if that. It's got holes in it, sounds terrible.
Those eBay cheapies aren't going to last. They say they are stainless stell and all that bull - but they will last just past the "warranty" the no name company offers and then fail miserably.
The ONLY exception is the SRS knock off of the RSR exhausts. They are like $225 shipped or something - I had one on my WRX and absolutely loved it and will be getting one soon for my Evo. The owner before me put on an eGay exhaust and guess what? It's rusted as fawk... it's maybe 2 years old, if that. It's got holes in it, sounds terrible.
The ONLY exception is the SRS knock off of the RSR exhausts. They are like $225 shipped or something - I had one on my WRX and absolutely loved it and will be getting one soon for my Evo. The owner before me put on an eGay exhaust and guess what? It's rusted as fawk... it's maybe 2 years old, if that. It's got holes in it, sounds terrible.
Take this with a grain of salt, but I had a srs exhaust on my Honda accord for about a year, and it still was in great condition, except for the fading look that ALL exhausts get. I never cleaned it once and it truly didn't look that bad. Perfect drone, no rasp at all. Really bassy :-)
I think you may have misunderstood me, lol. I'm saying the SRS is an excellent exhaust and the perfect alternative. I am like the OP - I'm not going to pay triple for something just for a name. ETS FMIC is over $1,000 or I can go with the CX Racing one for $425 and get the exact same thing. If I'm shooting for 400whp I'm not gonna be that concerned. If I was going for 500+ than I would spring for the expensive stuff. But exhausts are something that don't matter - and the SRS is a perfect non rusting alternative that is cheap and perfect.
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Longevity and engineering. Most of not all of the cheap ebay ones are knockoff of better designs, and how long they last and how well they copied the engineering is very much in question. Will it drone? Will it fit correctly? These are questions you won't have to ask yourself if you go with a known brand, not to mention the level of customer service you'll get. For something you have to listen to every time you drive your car, I personally wouldn't cheap out here. But that's me.
This is true. Definately need to watch for bottle neck. Fitment is going to be the other issue. If you dont want spend too much then just watch the for sale threads.
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I think you may have misunderstood me, lol. I'm saying the SRS is an excellent exhaust and the perfect alternative. I am like the OP - I'm not going to pay triple for something just for a name. ETS FMIC is over $1,000 or I can go with the CX Racing one for $425 and get the exact same thing. If I'm shooting for 400whp I'm not gonna be that concerned. If I was going for 500+ than I would spring for the expensive stuff. But exhausts are something that don't matter - and the SRS is a perfect non rusting alternative that is cheap and perfect.
I would be concerned with quality. I don't want to replace the exhaust or FMIC every year or 2.
Has anyone done a test of an ebay special versus some of the more popular brands (Greddy, HKS, Megan, etc)?
Here is a good thread showing the difference in intercoolers. I would stay away from the eBay junk if you plan on making consistent horsepower.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ted-equal.html
Here is a quote from that thread.
Thanks!
Michael
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ted-equal.html
Here is a quote from that thread.
All intercoolers are not equal 
You have a lot to take into consideration when purchasing a front mount.
The first thing you want to check out is the fin pack design. An offset and staggered fin design will be your best bet in dissipating heat. The straight through fin design will pass the air right through like a tunnel, the offset and staggered fin pack breaks up the air molecules and forces the air to come in contact with multiple fins creating a denser charge air.

** ETS Offset and Staggered Fin Pack

** ETS Core (Dense, Offset and Staggered)

** Ebay Core (Notice how the air flows directly through the intercooler and not off the fins)
The next would be the intercooler core design. We prefer a bar and plate core. This cores does an amazing job at being efficient.

** ETS Core VS Garrett (We do something a little different here by changing the size of the charge row to give us more heat transfer plates. If we have an extra 4 charge rows over the competitor core in the same area we get 8 extra heat transfer plates. This is the top and bottom plate of the charge row. By doing this we can loosen up the internal charge rows which gives us less pressure drop and more external heat transfer area.
Here is a picture of the Garrett core that we cut in half to make a smaller SRT-4 intercooler. The internal results of the Garrett core were a bit disturbing. The core doesn't look like it would flow too well.

** Garrett Core On Top / ETS Core On Bottom

** ETS Intercooler Core Components
Hope this helps you out.

You have a lot to take into consideration when purchasing a front mount.
The first thing you want to check out is the fin pack design. An offset and staggered fin design will be your best bet in dissipating heat. The straight through fin design will pass the air right through like a tunnel, the offset and staggered fin pack breaks up the air molecules and forces the air to come in contact with multiple fins creating a denser charge air.

** ETS Offset and Staggered Fin Pack

** ETS Core (Dense, Offset and Staggered)

** Ebay Core (Notice how the air flows directly through the intercooler and not off the fins)
The next would be the intercooler core design. We prefer a bar and plate core. This cores does an amazing job at being efficient.

** ETS Core VS Garrett (We do something a little different here by changing the size of the charge row to give us more heat transfer plates. If we have an extra 4 charge rows over the competitor core in the same area we get 8 extra heat transfer plates. This is the top and bottom plate of the charge row. By doing this we can loosen up the internal charge rows which gives us less pressure drop and more external heat transfer area.
Here is a picture of the Garrett core that we cut in half to make a smaller SRT-4 intercooler. The internal results of the Garrett core were a bit disturbing. The core doesn't look like it would flow too well.

** Garrett Core On Top / ETS Core On Bottom

** ETS Intercooler Core Components
Hope this helps you out.
Michael
I might not be shooting for big whp, but I refuse to cheap out on my parts.
It might take me longer to get to my desired whp due to costs of parts but the quality will have me pushing my whp longer than the cheap stuff.
Just me but if I am going to do it and spend money on it I want to do it right the first time.
For a few hundred more you can pick up a Greddy Ti-C.
It might take me longer to get to my desired whp due to costs of parts but the quality will have me pushing my whp longer than the cheap stuff.
Just me but if I am going to do it and spend money on it I want to do it right the first time.
For a few hundred more you can pick up a Greddy Ti-C.
It's funny how cheap people justify cheap parts. I'd rather spend more on a good condition used, proven part than ebay crap. Be patient and see if any local deals pop up, modding cars is not a race.
Minimal bends, A 3in pipe is a 3in pipe you will not see a performance difference. This coming from me the dumb *** here with a $1k exhaust.
I would put a $100 ebay exhaust on my car and not think twice about it. I have seen them on cars here in the NE for years without issue.
I would put a $100 ebay exhaust on my car and not think twice about it. I have seen them on cars here in the NE for years without issue.






