^ Z-Rod is the SHIZ

 

Is anyone who is claiming one oil is better then the next have any proof? Because I have scrolled through hundreds of UOA and I have not seen anything that would lead me to believe that x oil is better then z, every car is different and responds different. What I did notice is they all work fine so do you want nike or reebok?

 

I also run z rod 10 30 since i'm not "Built" yet. Stock block, but 0 issues and it has detergents still. If you buy a membership it's cheaper per case of 12. Not that bad pricing wise and you don't need to change every 3k.

 

All oil are not created equal sir. Fact - synthetic is better than conventional. Fact - high zinc oil is far better for motors and turbo. You can run what you want. I run all amsoil and that wont change. They have done a lot of testing vs other brand oils. Feel free to go look. I have seen turbos fail due to the wrong oil. I actually have a X at the shop, 9k miles on the motor/turbo and the turbo failed due to tge wrong oil and weight. I don't need a test to tell me what doesn't work

Mikey

 

I am running Brad Penn in my 1g Talon and I love it. I see excellent oil pressure at idle.

I still have balance shafts and see 38psi at hot idle and about 76 psi cruising at 70mph.

 

You said look at amsoils home brew tests then say you don't need a test to tell you what dosnt work? Sorry i have seen there litature and its really unbiased im sure lol. I have run probley close to every brand of oil amsoil included and never had an oil related failure of any kind on any car. People put to much stock in this is best blah blah they all pass the same damn tests. I actually challenge fp and other companies to prove this zzdp claim. They pick the weight I'll send them various oils in various bottles and then they can induce this bs turbo failure and if they get brand vs bottle right I'll believe them lol. Like I asked before any proof? Your not running monster cam flat tappet motor from 1960.

My comment is all in fun by the way not disrespecting you and your opinion I just don't buy the hype!

 

lol, you don't think FP could tell you which oil is in which bottle?

 

Im aware that synthetic offers better protection, which is why I was skeptical getting a case of conventional Valvoline VR1. My car really doesnt run hot though, my oil temps hang around 150-160 and Ive never seen them break the 180 mark.

Anyone have any comments on running the VR1 conventional?

 

No how would they know? Look color taste lol??? Unless its royal purple or brand penn how could you tell? Or redline and vr1 has a distinct color to. Other then that no lol

 

How in the hell are you getting your temps to stay that low Sven?

Only time my car tays that cold is if its freezing outside.

And for people saying it doesn't matter..........it does. Unless FP changed their policy I thought they were tying failures of their turbo to oil used. Not using one of their recommended oils......good buy warranty. Since they are going ball bearing not sure if it still applies.

I have no dog in this fight. As a former honda guy I swore by Mobil 1. Since I've had my Evo I was using ENEOS. Now I'm using the new ZROD oil from AMSOil.

 

Going ball bearing still does apply. i spoke to Robert and he said that you just use a different filter line since less oil is needed but it's still needed and the same rules apply for which oils to use. As far as oil, there are 884529572958 threads all over the web on it. It won't end, but I will tell you that if you don't follow the recommended oils from FP it's not warrantied. Also, a turbo timer would help greatly to prevent hot shutdown.

 

Mikey

You have seen first hand what brand X does vs brand Y, you cant get any more certain data than having a few shops use a product for real life testing,,, i am sure if you used a set of cams and they did not work you would not sell them at all and i am sure is the same case would go for this oil

the truth is that no matter what is said people will tend to question every little bit of data is provided whether is test at the dyno, charts or whatever,,, i have been positing data on this since 2007 i did plenty labs on oils.
When there is a ratio of 100 happy customers and 10 not happy you cant complain because the indication is something is being done right

i appreciate the good feedback from the SpecOps team

 

Broham

Rob at FP reccomends it because he understand the importance of zinc and phos in oils,,, what many fail to realize is that smaller contents of ZDDP in the oil causes premature wear in the engine internals, this just has been proven way to many times for anyone to argue with this,,, the issue is that some of the off the shelf companies like mobil have just recently pulled back on the content of ZDDP so you dont see the issues arising that much yet in engines you are seing them faster in turbos because of how much harder a turbo works than an engine, its a matter of time before the OEM realize that antiwear aditives like ZDDP is essential,,, however higher contents of ZDDP does not apply to non performance cars, this is why Mobil can get away with lower ZDDP levels because we are the minority we dont bring a large cash flow to them like the OEM market does.

but what does Rob @ FP knows what does all the other shops like, AMSperfomance, CBRD, Inline, SpecOps and all the other shops that have come to relize that a good synthetic will serve their customers best, our job is to make sure we do all the leg work so you the customer does not have to nd thats what all the testing is all about.


Camaro's are having the same issue,, Mobil 1 on the oil cap but they are having way to many oil's related failures,,, many camaro bluiders are looking for oil alternatives

 

so you are saying, the company who honors or voids warranties based on the oil you were using in their turbo has no way of telling the difference between oils?

are they just supposed to take everyone's word when a turbo is sent for warranty repair that it was run on zrod, scout's honor...

 

I think what there artical was based off of was the fact that Brad Penn oil is much cheaper then alot of other oils. Please don't get me wrong Amsoil is the **** but for what it costs for a case or even a qt Brad Penn is the better alternative being it is much cheaper qer qt and has a good amount of zinc and phosperious. For me personally I rather pay 5 something a qt and know it will last me just fine rather than pay 11 bucks for a good high end Amsoil with the same amount of zinc and phosperious giver or take. I am not pickey between fully synth and partial synth. Which ever does the job and will not burn a hole in my pocket in the mean time is what I will use.