This will answer any questions regarding runing ethanol with brad penn

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...brad-penn.html

 

For whohever is intersted in analysis results from different oils:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-testing.html

 

Dyno oils that are loaded with hydrocarbons this is what happens to them:
Hydrocarboons are something petrolium oils contain naturally and PROVED over and over not to be good for engine internals.

MUST SEE:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-jello-4.html

 

Thanks for bringing that up I forgot about that. I didn't buy it when I commented in that thread and I don't buy it now. The gumming they talked about has been covered a few times and it was due to the e85 itself not the oil.

 

It is interesting to see that but I don't run 20/50 oil so being its thick oil to start I am not really impressed by the video at all. Thick oil, been run for x amount of miles, sitting in a container well no **** its gonna look like that. If he were to open his oil pan and that came out of the car after it was driven I would be more hesitant. I have Brad Penn oil sitting my grage from a year ago with 2000 miles past my 3k service I usually do in 10/30 and it doesn't look like that one bit.

 

..... 4ws tuned.... Like any one is supposed to take what he says seriously...

 

Funny cars still has the OEM block making good power for most it's life. Sorry you got butt hurt tough guy that sucks.

Thing that sucks with the oil deal though is that in reality you just follow what you hear like a sheep and post up BS like a puppet. No tough guy your roller lifter 4G63 engine does not require those levels of ZDDP hell I think you can probably find that out in a 5 min search.

Thug on buddy

 

Point proven, and good to see you getting your money's worth out of the oil.

With that said, I think that most stock-ish Evo's that are well tuned could go ~5-6K on a good dino oil like Rotella.

 

FWIW, Cen-Pe-Co oil has more zinc/phos than anything that AMSOIL makes.

http://www.cen-pe-co.com/

 

There always seems to be a debate whenever which oil to use is discussed on forums. From reading Im sure we have all learned that our 4g63 needs an oil with high levels of zinc and phos. Everyone on here has been arguing about what is the best oil, but no one is saying much about the other chemicals in oil. Besides zddp what should we be focusing on as far as contents in our oil? Some manufacturers, for example, like to use a large amount of Calcium as an additive. Others youll see larger amounts of Boron or even Titanium. My question to all you evo gurus is where do all these detergents and additives factor in when considering which oil to use on a 4g63?

Do we want or really need an oil with large amounts of Calcium in our turbo engines which produce a lot of heat? Im just throwing out one of the other additives found in oil as an example because I havent heard anyone else mentioning how the other chemicals in the oil of one brand stand up next to another.

 

Trust me, the 20w/50 wasn't near that thick when it went in. I had less than 500 miles on the oil. I started the car once a month and would take it for a spin for an hour on nice days. It was in the container for a week before I made the video. The container was new from the Mobil1 15w-50 I replaced the BP with. I'll NEVER run Brad Penn again.

Brad Penn contacted me after I sent an online contact submission explaining the issue with the gelling. Both Ken Tyger and Chuck Armstrong called me to discuss over the phone. These guys are both the oil gurus for Brad Penn and I was pretty impressed they were both taking time out of their day to contact me. They basically told me that due to the time the car sat over the winter, fluctuating temps in the garage, and E85 fuel, they could see the oil doing this. They both suggested I should be running synthetic oil such as Mobil1 15w50 and stated Brad Penn 20w50 was not intended to be used with E85 fuel.

I emailed Ken after we talked asking for the API ratings I should be using with E85 and he sent me this email-

On another note, nobody mentioned mentioned different Mobil1 weights have different zinc / phos content.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...duct_Guide.pdf

Also Brad Penn is known to be lower to be lower in zinc / phos with Blackstone testing.
http://www.penngrade1.com/Zinc.aspx
Penn Grade 1
20W-50 #7119
zinc 1,214 ppm
phos 944 ppm

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1452709

 

Thanks for that info. Like I said I have 5k oil in a cat litter jug in my garage and its no where near that thick and I ran e85 with it.

 

I run a Buschur motor as well... and I gave the brad penn a shot, it was great oil... I daily drive my car and when the Z-Rod came out that oil fits the bill for what my car was built for... High ZDDP package and anti-corrosion packages and detergents that are great for daily driven cars...

The only complaint I had about brad penn was that locally it took a $2/QT price jump...

 

Actually, this is incorrect. Synthetic oil has many advantages over conventional oil. One of them is the ability for the oil to quickly flow in colder temperatures. This is critical in the winter obviously to minimize galling or excessive wear due to a lack of an oil film. Another benefit is on cold start ups. Aftermarket cams like the IPS K2 as well as turbo bearings need instant lubrication to prevent lobe or bearing damage due to direct metal on metal contact.

High zinc/phosphorus synthetic oils are crucial for the life of any high performance engine whether N/A or F/I. Cam lobes and bearings, turbo bearings and rings all benefit from the enhanced lubricity. I cannot imagine running a 4G63 or 4B11T on conventional oil. We are not driving Ford Model T's for goodness sake.

 

Old skool vs. new skool

Some people will never be convinced that synthetic is worth the money you spend (esp. if you change your oil every 3k which is another hold over from the "ol skool" days) and there are some that believe conventional oil is just as good as modern day synthetic.

Why are we arguing. You will never be able to convince the entrenched on either side they are wrong.