Thanks
I actualy prefer stock block, but rods would probably same as oem for drivability.

Me and the wife like this car a bunch, she now wants to sell or trade family car for another evo. This one is way nicer in my opinion then the last evo we had, even though it had 60k miles it did feel a bit faster.

 

Headstuds are a must! At 26psi, it will blow the hg easily.

As for the clutch, make sure you remove the inline pill restrictor. This slows down clutch engagement on fast shifts and will induce major clutch wear.

 

@26 psi im not sure headstuds are a must. They are a good idea for insurance however. You should certainly trap around 106-112 or so with the mods youve listed. 60' and shifting will obviously play a huge part. I think i ran 12.7 @ 109 with similar mods on slightly lower boost 24psi i believe. High 11's would be a stretch for most driver with those mods on pump gas for most drivers including myself obviously. I would guess 12.5 would be a great goal and once you get the car figured out then maybe 12.3 with a good pass. Good luck man I also have an ACT and don't have any issues with it or any sort of lockout.

 

I'll check the line for the pill.
Clutch might be exedy stg 2.

I'll try getting front engine mount and under good shifter bushings upgraded soon.

I just wish po had head studs ugraded during cam install.
I might try doing 1 at a time, I don't drive it hard so not too worried about it yet.

 

I'm also not sure headstuds are a must at 26 psi. I ran mine for two years at about 27 psi without them and never had a problem with the HG and I'm pretty sure the guy I bought it from was also running it around 27psi for a few years before me. I certainly don't recommend doing that as I do have headstuds now, but I wouldn't say the HG will blow that easily either.

 

This is a bad sign that your clutch is dragging.

 

well those things will def help, o2 housing and licp an uicp are good for bang for buck, u can get some good gains from an o2 housing alone.....but seat time and driving ability at the strip will also make a big diff.

 

Just be nice to have the option to safely make some more power And torque
on like a fp green or red or something......

 

Just adjusted clutch pedal outward. It's much better but I can't shift into gear fast, it's like I get it to the point where it's in gear and have to wait a second or use some force to click into the gear.

Idk if it's me but think I smelled a little bit of clutch after multiple back to back pulls.

 

Clutch smell after hard pulls means it is either not holding the power and slipping or you are unintentionally slipping it between gears with poor gear changing. Sounds like its toast if you can't shift it out relatively quick. If you plan on 400+ hp just go with a twin disk and be done with it my act has been great but it has it's limits on tq. I think 507 flywheel torque but the exert twin is all u will ever need if ur pockets are deep lol.

 

Exedy*

 

well right now I'm broke. I do know of new twin disc for $1200 and is my clutch of choice.

if its still dragging would it make it smell like clutch (clutch pill causing it to slip a little?)? Idk, might have just been me lol, I didn't smell any afterwards.

 

No, just no.

You'll be fine upwards toward 30, I blew mine at 32+ on the VIII turbo, but it sure as hell wasn't an instantaneous thing, either. I ran it for 3 weeks including MAP Proving Grounds before it went. In hindsight I'd still have a stock block if I'd just done studs.

 

if u are new to driving a AWD car at the track i would be surpized to see high 13's or maybe even 14's

but good driving high 12's

there is a thing with Evo's with ACT cluched they tend to lock you out when shifting fast or in a high RPM.. they suck pretty much for Evo's

 

I did get a 13.5...

Also ran high 12's with my bad driving in my rsti but I can shift that car really fast and easy.


Hope I'll get shifted bushings during the day, might go run tonight again.

Also looking at shifter extender and better knob in the future.