Rod clearance issue with block. Need some advice/ help.
Rod clearance issue with block. Need some advice/ help.
Okay so finally started assembling my block for my 2.4 build. I am running a 2003 4g64 block, stock 100mm crank, Brian Crower 156mm I beam rods, and CP pistons. What my issue is that I am running into is the rod is hitting the very bottom edge of the cylinder. I talked with BC and they said all I need to do is use a dremmel and clearance it. Does this seem normal as I have never seen anyone have to clearance the block and the bottom of the cylinder at that. If it wasn't the bottom of the cylinder that needed clearance I would feel fine, but the piston skirt comes all the way down to about where I would need to clearance.
Has anyone ever done this before or ran into this issue and what did you do or recommend I do? Someone told me to round the edges of the rod to clearance the block, but I feel that would through the weight of the rod and strength as well.
I'll post pictures as soon as I can and I'm not posting from my phone.
Thanks.
Has anyone ever done this before or ran into this issue and what did you do or recommend I do? Someone told me to round the edges of the rod to clearance the block, but I feel that would through the weight of the rod and strength as well.
I'll post pictures as soon as I can and I'm not posting from my phone.
Thanks.
This is my Rod and Piston setup.

And here is my issue.

I am going to take everything apart tomorrow and go back to the machine shop and have them clearance it as well as re-hot tank it to get clean.
Last edited by Evolution IVGSR; Oct 4, 2012 at 07:28 PM.
I had the same issue when i was building my 2.4LR with my Turbo Tuff I-beam rods,usually H-beam rods don't have this issue since they are thinner,most manufacturers recommend a minimum of 0.060"clearance between the connecting rods and the block,what i did was o made a 6" strip that was 0.065" thick to wedge in there like a feeler gauge and make sure i had proper clearance,also the rib with the arrow on it needs to be shaved down.this is how my block ended up,runs great
I had the same issue when i was building my 2.4LR with my Turbo Tuff I-beam rods,usually H-beam rods don't have this issue since they are thinner,most manufacturers recommend a minimum of 0.060"clearance between the connecting rods and the block,what i did was o made a 6" strip that was 0.065" thick to wedge in there like a feeler gauge and make sure i had proper clearance,also the rib with the arrow on it needs to be shaved down.this is how my block ended up,runs greatThanks I will be having it clearances next week 
Thanks for the picture and why does that little rib there need to be shaved down? I also see that you don't have any oil squirters as well. Have you had any issues with your motor and do you track or drag your car? I was planing on getting a AMS wet sump oil pain as I will be doing some auto cross and time attack in mine.

Thanks for the picture and why does that little rib there need to be shaved down? I also see that you don't have any oil squirters as well. Have you had any issues with your motor and do you track or drag your car? I was planing on getting a AMS wet sump oil pain as I will be doing some auto cross and time attack in mine.
Once you notch the bottom of the cylinders and the crank can spin freely the rod will hit that rib also,so it will need to be grounded down too,the car has 20 drag passes so far, aftermarket forged pistons are not set up to take advantage of oil squirters that's why stock pistons have those weird holes in the bottom of them,my 2.4 block didn't have them so i didn't think i needed to spend the extra cash just to have them splash the bottom of the pistons,no issues so far.Trending Topics
Yeah I am in the process of a 2.4L build but std 150mm rods. My block had to be machined also using the Howard's Racing Rods from MAP also.
I'm not running oil squirter's either. Builder didn't think I need to spend the money on them either said the same thing as VIIIDriver also.
I didn't o'ring the head either. My builder would have if I really wanted to but he said he laps the head and the block so perfect that he has never had a issue. He builds a lot of supra's, honda's, and 4g's in my area. He's a machinist and also has a engine builder on staff and his son does the head machining.
Warranty's his motor for a year and expect's you to beat on it right out of the gate. After initial oil changes and what not to get rid of assembly lube and all that. That was one of the things I had asked him because I have the same mantra.
I'm not running oil squirter's either. Builder didn't think I need to spend the money on them either said the same thing as VIIIDriver also.
I didn't o'ring the head either. My builder would have if I really wanted to but he said he laps the head and the block so perfect that he has never had a issue. He builds a lot of supra's, honda's, and 4g's in my area. He's a machinist and also has a engine builder on staff and his son does the head machining.
Warranty's his motor for a year and expect's you to beat on it right out of the gate. After initial oil changes and what not to get rid of assembly lube and all that. That was one of the things I had asked him because I have the same mantra.
Once you notch the bottom of the cylinders and the crank can spin freely the rod will hit that rib also,so it will need to be grounded down too,the car has 20 drag passes so far, aftermarket forged pistons are not set up to take advantage of oil squirters that's why stock pistons have those weird holes in the bottom of them,my 2.4 block didn't have them so i didn't think i needed to spend the extra cash just to have them splash the bottom of the pistons,no issues so far.Yeah I am in the process of a 2.4L build but std 150mm rods. My block had to be machined also using the Howard's Racing Rods from MAP also.
I'm not running oil squirter's either. Builder didn't think I need to spend the money on them either said the same thing as VIIIDriver also.
I didn't o'ring the head either. My builder would have if I really wanted to but he said he laps the head and the block so perfect that he has never had a issue. He builds a lot of supra's, honda's, and 4g's in my area. He's a machinist and also has a engine builder on staff and his son does the head machining.
Warranty's his motor for a year and expect's you to beat on it right out of the gate. After initial oil changes and what not to get rid of assembly lube and all that. That was one of the things I had asked him because I have the same mantra.
I'm not running oil squirter's either. Builder didn't think I need to spend the money on them either said the same thing as VIIIDriver also.
I didn't o'ring the head either. My builder would have if I really wanted to but he said he laps the head and the block so perfect that he has never had a issue. He builds a lot of supra's, honda's, and 4g's in my area. He's a machinist and also has a engine builder on staff and his son does the head machining.
Warranty's his motor for a year and expect's you to beat on it right out of the gate. After initial oil changes and what not to get rid of assembly lube and all that. That was one of the things I had asked him because I have the same mantra.
Okay so finally started assembling my block for my 2.4 build. I am running a 2003 4g64 block, stock 100mm crank, Brian Crower 156mm I beam rods, and CP pistons. What my issue is that I am running into is the rod is hitting the very bottom edge of the cylinder. I talked with BC and they said all I need to do is use a dremmel and clearance it. Does this seem normal as I have never seen anyone have to clearance the block and the bottom of the cylinder at that. If it wasn't the bottom of the cylinder that needed clearance I would feel fine, but the piston skirt comes all the way down to about where I would need to clearance.
Has anyone ever done this before or ran into this issue and what did you do or recommend I do? Someone told me to round the edges of the rod to clearance the block, but I feel that would through the weight of the rod and strength as well.
I'll post pictures as soon as I can and I'm not posting from my phone.
Thanks.
Has anyone ever done this before or ran into this issue and what did you do or recommend I do? Someone told me to round the edges of the rod to clearance the block, but I feel that would through the weight of the rod and strength as well.
I'll post pictures as soon as I can and I'm not posting from my phone.
Thanks.
Let me know if you have any other questions regarding the build,i just went through the whole thing myself when building mine,had to find out all the info myself including the water pump that don't need a spacer,timing and stuff like that,not too many people want to give you info when you're doing all yourself.
Let me know if you have any other questions regarding the build,i just went through the whole thing myself when building mine,had to find out all the info myself including the water pump that don't need a spacer,timing and stuff like that,not too many people want to give you info when you're doing all yourself.
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