Evo 9 MR Transmission help?
Jun 23, 2013, 06:16 PM
#17
Evolved Member
Hmm, I don't really know what my cruising rpm is as the car is mostly a dedicated track car now, but it's not bad at all. 3k rpms or less I would guess. With the Shep ultimate ratio I'm only in 5th before the bridge and on the front straight on all three tracks I've run this year; Lightning, Thunderbolt, and Summit. I have a built head, so a lot of times I'll run 4th gear out to 8200 rpms through a turn to avoid a costly shift.
Jun 24, 2013, 10:19 PM
#19
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ProPilot04, not my first stick. My second evo and I have had some nice dsm's also a 2000 ls1 camaro, etc..
**** happens and this is the price we ALL pay in some way or another when having a high performance modified car that we enjoy driving to limits.
So what is your secret for longevity in your 6 speed? Any good advice? Not being sarcastic, just my first 6speed evo and really like it. Just want to make it the best it can be.
I dont do no lift shifts or launch by the way. I like having but I'm not stupid with my cars. I take better care of them than I probly do myself.
OP, I've had excedy twin and some act singles and for dd and street use I prefer a single disk clutch. Just use a proven one!
**** happens and this is the price we ALL pay in some way or another when having a high performance modified car that we enjoy driving to limits.
So what is your secret for longevity in your 6 speed? Any good advice? Not being sarcastic, just my first 6speed evo and really like it. Just want to make it the best it can be.
I dont do no lift shifts or launch by the way. I like having but I'm not stupid with my cars. I take better care of them than I probly do myself.
OP, I've had excedy twin and some act singles and for dd and street use I prefer a single disk clutch. Just use a proven one!
That said, I don't think there is a big secret, I don't claim to be a pro, and I definitely launch my car, and while I haven't installed it yet, I've read a lot of stuff saying that the NLTS mod is better for the trans. Maybe, maybe not.
I don't think the amount of time you've driven stick necessarily makes you better either. Some people have been taught bad habits. A good example of this is how most people are taught to balance the gas and the clutch for engaging 1st gear when first being taught. This doesn't really teach you anything though, it essentially enables you to "go" and allows you the opportunity to learn with practice. I prefer to tell someone to get the car to move without using the gas at all. I think it better illustrates the relationship. Once the clutch is out, I have them hit the gas, and they inevitably give it WAY too much gas, and thus they've just now learned in two quick minutes, the relationship between clutch and flywheel, and throttle.
I will say that I think many of the issues with the Evo transmissions seem to arise from people not knowing what they're doing driver wise, or mod wise. Mitsubishi has taken what is essentially a WRC motor, and chassis, and then mated it with a street transmission. On a car that costs less than $40k. As you can imagine, compromises were made, but it also wasn't Mitsubishi's responsibility to make a transmission that can withstand 100% increases in HP, or even a 30% increase. I mean... that's HUGE!
Combine that with the fact that most ameteurs seem to use the 4th gear relief slot on the housing as a leverage point when trying to get the 6 speed to clear the subframe, the fact that people expect the car to shift like a Porsche because it can keep up with them, and the fact that people are putting a clutch in a car to "hold power" (the clutch is a wear item, you want it to fail before your transmission), and you have quite the recipe for disaster.
Really, it is what it is. People do great work making the transmissions more robust, and there's certainly a need. But when you approach the tuning process logically, and realize what this car at 300whp is actually capable of, you'll find that the entire system is more than capable. It's just those guys that want the car to perform tasks that it was never intended to perform that have the issues.
Jun 25, 2013, 04:12 AM
#20
Evolving Member
No offense taken... I wasn't trying to be harsh with my post either.
That said, I don't think there is a big secret, I don't claim to be a pro, and I definitely launch my car, and while I haven't installed it yet, I've read a lot of stuff saying that the NLTS mod is better for the trans. Maybe, maybe not.
I don't think the amount of time you've driven stick necessarily makes you better either. Some people have been taught bad habits. A good example of this is how most people are taught to balance the gas and the clutch for engaging 1st gear when first being taught. This doesn't really teach you anything though, it essentially enables you to "go" and allows you the opportunity to learn with practice. I prefer to tell someone to get the car to move without using the gas at all. I think it better illustrates the relationship. Once the clutch is out, I have them hit the gas, and they inevitably give it WAY too much gas, and thus they've just now learned in two quick minutes, the relationship between clutch and flywheel, and throttle.
I will say that I think many of the issues with the Evo transmissions seem to arise from people not knowing what they're doing driver wise, or mod wise. Mitsubishi has taken what is essentially a WRC motor, and chassis, and then mated it with a street transmission. On a car that costs less than $40k. As you can imagine, compromises were made, but it also wasn't Mitsubishi's responsibility to make a transmission that can withstand 100% increases in HP, or even a 30% increase. I mean... that's HUGE!
Combine that with the fact that most ameteurs seem to use the 4th gear relief slot on the housing as a leverage point when trying to get the 6 speed to clear the subframe, the fact that people expect the car to shift like a Porsche because it can keep up with them, and the fact that people are putting a clutch in a car to "hold power" (the clutch is a wear item, you want it to fail before your transmission), and you have quite the recipe for disaster.
Really, it is what it is. People do great work making the transmissions more robust, and there's certainly a need. But when you approach the tuning process logically, and realize what this car at 300whp is actually capable of, you'll find that the entire system is more than capable. It's just those guys that want the car to perform tasks that it was never intended to perform that have the issues.
That said, I don't think there is a big secret, I don't claim to be a pro, and I definitely launch my car, and while I haven't installed it yet, I've read a lot of stuff saying that the NLTS mod is better for the trans. Maybe, maybe not.
I don't think the amount of time you've driven stick necessarily makes you better either. Some people have been taught bad habits. A good example of this is how most people are taught to balance the gas and the clutch for engaging 1st gear when first being taught. This doesn't really teach you anything though, it essentially enables you to "go" and allows you the opportunity to learn with practice. I prefer to tell someone to get the car to move without using the gas at all. I think it better illustrates the relationship. Once the clutch is out, I have them hit the gas, and they inevitably give it WAY too much gas, and thus they've just now learned in two quick minutes, the relationship between clutch and flywheel, and throttle.
I will say that I think many of the issues with the Evo transmissions seem to arise from people not knowing what they're doing driver wise, or mod wise. Mitsubishi has taken what is essentially a WRC motor, and chassis, and then mated it with a street transmission. On a car that costs less than $40k. As you can imagine, compromises were made, but it also wasn't Mitsubishi's responsibility to make a transmission that can withstand 100% increases in HP, or even a 30% increase. I mean... that's HUGE!
Combine that with the fact that most ameteurs seem to use the 4th gear relief slot on the housing as a leverage point when trying to get the 6 speed to clear the subframe, the fact that people expect the car to shift like a Porsche because it can keep up with them, and the fact that people are putting a clutch in a car to "hold power" (the clutch is a wear item, you want it to fail before your transmission), and you have quite the recipe for disaster.
Really, it is what it is. People do great work making the transmissions more robust, and there's certainly a need. But when you approach the tuning process logically, and realize what this car at 300whp is actually capable of, you'll find that the entire system is more than capable. It's just those guys that want the car to perform tasks that it was never intended to perform that have the issues.
Aug 24, 2014, 03:21 AM
#21
I don't know if this will help much but it's not WHP that you need to worry about. It's more the WTQ and how you drive your car. I have a 6 spd and have done a few track days and time attacks but I try to be careful how long I'm in 4th gear and the heat. The closest track to me is CMP where you're in 4th a lot. I usually do a warm up lap 2 hot laps and a cool down lap per session. I know its only its only a matter of time until 4th goes anyway. As for numbers some are luckier then others. A trans cooler might help too.
With the clutch you typically get what you pay for. I went with the Exedy twin and it's been great for both street and the track. Use your gut with Ebay deals, if it looks fishy stay away.
Hope this helps
With the clutch you typically get what you pay for. I went with the Exedy twin and it's been great for both street and the track. Use your gut with Ebay deals, if it looks fishy stay away.
Hope this helps
I have a ACT, MB7-HDG6 6 PUCK SPRUNG. and Ur disc is healthier for the trans with this six PUCK but it does white smoke all 4s it grabs so hard, and I'm white smoking all 4 tires and 5600rpm 2step as well as only 375 whp and 345 wtq
Aug 24, 2014, 03:41 AM
#22
My MB7-HDG6 6Puck sprung clutch won't slip for **** almost like there made 4 lauuches I whitesmoke all 4s at 5600rpm 2 step, and with only 375whp 345wtq, I recommend but it will hurt trans over time, if you want Ur trans to last use 4th gear only when u need it, and get a double or triple disc instead and that'll keep Ur trans healthy, and change Ur fluids @3k mile intervals so there's not much of chance of sludge buildup in it, I know 3k intervals a bit much but it'll help a lot in the end
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