Stock Evos
Greetings, I think I can relate to everything you've said about owning a stock evo. Mine I bought new in 2003 and logged 58,000 mi. and now need a clutch. I too plan on doing the work myself and it is up on stands in the garage with only the wheels off. I'm 58 with several clutch jobs under my belt but this looks scary so I've joined this forum and began by reading the post on Evo Clutch Install By MitsuJoe and will try and download recommended service manuals. This is my first AWD and want to keep things stock as always. If you have the time and could reply with your experience on parts selection and weather or not you think the stock throw Out Bearing ,cover or flywheel needs replaced and if a new Mitsubishi factory clutch disc is recommended , The car has never been abused and I am considering a Exedy #MBK1001 clutch kit . Any input will be greatly appreciated Thanks Stevo-Evo
Last edited by Stevo-Evo; Nov 16, 2013 at 11:10 AM. Reason: spelling , add name brand
I'm 67 and I did one. I'd suggest, if doing this much work, don't go cheap; new TO bearing, new cover, and have the flywheel machined. I'd also suggest a Monoloc. I also bought an engine hanger with arms that reach out to the radiator support, hung the engine on one and hung a little chain fall hoist on the other. The transmission is HEAVY.
More info for Stevo-Evo. The clutch sold by Exedy as OEM uses the same pressure plate as OEM but OEM has a better disc. So, I think you would want the OEM disc. Try MAP for a good price on clutch parts.
The transmission install is a real bearcat with the subframe in place. On the other hand, removing the subframe is a lot of work. I did it with the subframe in place.
Here is what I did for the install: 1. Cut the long studs on the transmission fender end to half their original length 2. Put the transmission in neutral (5 speed) and pulled the control housing 3. Dropped the clutch end of the engine as much as possible while avoiding smashing anything into the fender 4. Put the scissor jack that came with the car between the block and subframe to move the engine forward.
One other thing, don't pull the speed sensor like I did. I'm told there is a place up above where you simply unplug it.
The transmission install is a real bearcat with the subframe in place. On the other hand, removing the subframe is a lot of work. I did it with the subframe in place.
Here is what I did for the install: 1. Cut the long studs on the transmission fender end to half their original length 2. Put the transmission in neutral (5 speed) and pulled the control housing 3. Dropped the clutch end of the engine as much as possible while avoiding smashing anything into the fender 4. Put the scissor jack that came with the car between the block and subframe to move the engine forward.
One other thing, don't pull the speed sensor like I did. I'm told there is a place up above where you simply unplug it.
Last edited by barneyb; Nov 16, 2013 at 08:31 PM.
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