for me, DONT TOUCH AXLE SEALS, let some one else do it. I can do everything on the car myself, but I always mess up axle seals when replacing them

 

They're hard to get in straight. Really stupid that Mitsubishi didn't cast the case with a step for the seal to bottom out on.

 

^Lol figures Im reading this and thats on my list of this things I need to do. I've pulled my rear diff way too many times to count and I managed to rip the outer edge of the seal and need to replace it as Im seeing a lil leak. I picked up a new seal and figure Ill grab something like this vs using a socket to drive them in. http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

Any tips or tricks to get it in nicely? I plan to just pull the axle and do it up in the air but if I have to pull the diff then I will no big deal. But as far as driving the thing in I figured its straight forward. Seat it straight and a couple taps should do it, no?

 

Yea, I have a brass punch that I ground down so that it's the perfect width to tap on only one part of the seal if it didn't go in perfectly straight.

 

just bought the same thing for a transfer case seal

 

Always keep a breaker bar and a bottle of PB blaster close by. If your torque wrench is acting suspicious and you think it's over-tightening crap, don't trust it (Applies to Craftsman, Pitts-berg tools, and Snap-on wrenches).

Before you start any project, use the bathroom and make sure you are well fed/hydrated.
Don't have overly excited people around or else they will rush you and you will do stupid things.

Take your time, read the forums, follow all torque specs, expect to bleed a little.

Keep your hands and work area as clean and organized as you can. Believe me this goes a LONG way.

-pal215

 

Trying to think if I have anything large enough and soft enough to make something like you did...just dont wanna distort the seal. Ill prob just pick up one of those bearing/ seal driver kits and call it a day
Just curious why you struggled so much? Seems like a simple 5 minute job pop the old one out and pop the new one in. Just annoying getting it to sit straight?

 

I have one of those too...lol. Harbor Freight sells a decent set.


http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

 

I so need that. Took me two tries this last time. Nothing bothers me more than fluid leaks. And knocking transmissions.

 

Lol yeah HF is hit or miss with all their stuff. I picked up a 56" tool chest from them a couple months back and that thing is pretty badass. The shop press is decent too, did all my bushings with it. However their bearing separator is a POS. As much as people sh*t on HF they do sell some decent stuff and can be really handy at times when in a pinch with random specialty tools.

Ahh fluid leaks are literally the worst. I still cant friggin figure out my oil leak. Its been like 5 years now and drives me insane.

Anyway back on topic here's a lesson that I've learned over the years. Our cars rust like no other. Any fastener that I take out goes back in with a liberal application of anti seize unless it calls for threadlocker, which those of course get that instead. Last night I was swapping EGR back onto my car. I play the inspection shuffle every year so fasteners come off easy on my vehicle. My buddy had been borrowing my EGR solenoid so I needed it back. I had a spare blockoff plate so decided we should just get rid of it on his car. Well his EGR valve has never been removed so of course 1 bolt came off and the other decided to fight us. Steel bolt threaded into an aluminum IM and sure enough galvanic reaction and boom the friggin bolt snapped right off. Not sure if I'll be able to sneak my MIG gun down in there and tack on a nut in hopes the heat will break the seize or if we'll be pulling the IM.

So there is my lesson; anti seize is your friend. You can thank me later.

 

I have an oil leak from the MIVEC line, Up near the solenoid. I've replaced the gaskets twice and even tried Loctite LOL
I bought a new line and going to put in a new check valve. if that doesn't solve the problem I will let that ***** drip.

 

Timing belt job with the motor in the car = bloody knuckles. Also don't change the starter when the engine is hot (at least on the E4-E6) as the downpipe is about three inches from the starter and that son of a ***** hurts when you punch it hot!

 

Well I know mine isn't leaking there bc no MIVEC for me. Confirm that the end of the line is flat and is making a good seat with the banjo and of course 2 new crush washers. Maybe a dab of RTV will do the trick. Threadlocker aint gunna do sh*t in terms of leaks and will just make it harder to take out next time.

My leak literally makes no sense. The back of my block is a mess but I cant for the life of me find the source. Only positive is the rust prevention that its giving me. But anytime I work on the car Im a mess thanks to it...ugh

 

We used to put a tiny bit of Loctite on either side of the washers. Some old guy advised to, but I think he was fill of it LOL.
Like I said: I've tried two sets of washers. Torqued to the high end of spec. Still leaks. I'm thinking the line's surface may be marred.

 

this is one of the funniest things ive read. thank you I needed the laugh