Hi, I just installed the ORC 559 series twin plate clutch, but I also got a few other mods done at the same time, so I need a tune as soon as possible, heard someone said break in is not needed but some people said it's needed if you want the clutch last longer and smoother. so is it really necessary to break in the clutch before I go to dyno tune the car?

 

It will not need break-in to hold power on the dyno. I wouldn't launch for a couple hundred miles though.

 

Yes. Clutch is the only thing on the car that I actually take time to "break-in".

 

is it ok to go on hub dyno?

 

Yes.

 

Thanks, now I have a question on the twin plate clutch, it's the ORC 559 twin disc clutch, the padal feels very sofe and I think it's softer than the stock OEM clutch and it's not stiffed at all, I've never driven twin disc before but aren't it suppose to stiffer than the oem? Is it going to be stiffer after brake in period?
And it's making a lot weird noise when driving (not stepping the clutch in) I'll upload a video and can you guys tell me if it's still normal or not? It's like some parts are losing. But when I drive faster around 50-60km the noise will gone, the noise only came in 2,3 gear at aroun 20-45km

 

Twin clutches have a hydro inner throwout bearing and need to be adjusted.

You need to adjust your clutch pedal to the point of fully collapsing the pressure plate. You dont want excess throw cause it puts unwanted strain on your crankshaft. So since it has a different throw out setup its soft. Just making sure your aware of the adjustment.

 

Oh okay I didn't know that, that's why I was thinking why the twin plate clutch pedal is softer than the oem clutch, so it's not normal that the pedal is that soft? I'll need to re adjusted it? Do you have a video of the process?

 

Glad i mentioned it.

Its a 1 man job but much faster via 2 people.

The process is pushing clutch pedal down full throw and going under car to access bell housing peep hole.

You should adjust pedal to the point of the pressure plate fingers fully collapsing.

So you can adjust to the point of them going past fully collapsed then back it out untill the pressure plate fingers become the straightest yet fully collapsed.

 

Ive never seen that clutch but usually when you go twin, you ditch the factory slave cylinder and fork and throw out bearing.

And a true hydraulic throw out bearing is put in place.

 

does that make the clutch pedal go down a bit and make it stiffer?
i only used the OEM throw bearing as the clutch kit said it use the OEM release bearing.

 

i just used the OEM CLUTCH BEARING which is the # MR145619
cause this is what the guy sold me the clutch kit said. So can I not use the OEM bearing on a twin plate clutch?

 

https://youtu.be/M7ZlEdDrEHQ

this video is showing what the noise is sound like, it's terrible sound, sounds like scrapping, is it normal and be okay to drive like that?

 

Hmmmmm

 

sorry?? So was that I used the wrong bearing that's why it's making so much noises? Pls help!! thanks