High Mileage Evos
Mar 25, 2019, 01:27 PM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
High Mileage Evos
Hey everyone, my 2006 Evo 9 just passed 170k miles, and it got me thinking about how many others on here have old tired Evos.
So just out of curiosity for the other high mileage guys on here, how many miles are you currently pushing? Original motor or rebuilt? How many of those miles where yours? This should be fun!
I'll start,
I currently have just over 170,000 miles on mine, the motor has not been rebuilt aside from head studs and a head gasket prior to my ownership. I purchased the car around 5-6 years ago with 90,000 miles from its original owner. During my ownership the car has had an FP Green, Garret GT35R, GTX3040(aka 3082), and is now running a TD05-20G(which I absolutely love). It's got the 5 speed transmission which needs a rebuild, but otherwise the body and most everything else is clean and in great shape. I was amazed at how well the car held up after hearing about how "unreliable" Evos are(poppycock).
So who else has over 130k and is still enjoying their Evo like they just bought it?
So just out of curiosity for the other high mileage guys on here, how many miles are you currently pushing? Original motor or rebuilt? How many of those miles where yours? This should be fun!
I'll start,
I currently have just over 170,000 miles on mine, the motor has not been rebuilt aside from head studs and a head gasket prior to my ownership. I purchased the car around 5-6 years ago with 90,000 miles from its original owner. During my ownership the car has had an FP Green, Garret GT35R, GTX3040(aka 3082), and is now running a TD05-20G(which I absolutely love). It's got the 5 speed transmission which needs a rebuild, but otherwise the body and most everything else is clean and in great shape. I was amazed at how well the car held up after hearing about how "unreliable" Evos are(poppycock).
So who else has over 130k and is still enjoying their Evo like they just bought it?
Mar 25, 2019, 01:54 PM
#2
Evolving Member
Hey everyone, my 2006 Evo 9 just passed 170k miles, and it got me thinking about how many others on here have old tired Evos.
So just out of curiosity for the other high mileage guys on here, how many miles are you currently pushing? Original motor or rebuilt? How many of those miles where yours? This should be fun!
I'll start,
I currently have just over 170,000 miles on mine, the motor has not been rebuilt aside from head studs and a head gasket prior to my ownership. I purchased the car around 5-6 years ago with 90,000 miles from its original owner. During my ownership the car has had an FP Green, Garret GT35R, GTX3040(aka 3082), and is now running a TD05-20G(which I absolutely love). It's got the 5 speed transmission which needs a rebuild, but otherwise the body and most everything else is clean and in great shape. I was amazed at how well the car held up after hearing about how "unreliable" Evos are(poppycock).
So who else has over 130k and is still enjoying their Evo like they just bought it?
So just out of curiosity for the other high mileage guys on here, how many miles are you currently pushing? Original motor or rebuilt? How many of those miles where yours? This should be fun!
I'll start,
I currently have just over 170,000 miles on mine, the motor has not been rebuilt aside from head studs and a head gasket prior to my ownership. I purchased the car around 5-6 years ago with 90,000 miles from its original owner. During my ownership the car has had an FP Green, Garret GT35R, GTX3040(aka 3082), and is now running a TD05-20G(which I absolutely love). It's got the 5 speed transmission which needs a rebuild, but otherwise the body and most everything else is clean and in great shape. I was amazed at how well the car held up after hearing about how "unreliable" Evos are(poppycock).
So who else has over 130k and is still enjoying their Evo like they just bought it?
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Fox_IX (Mar 25, 2019)
Mar 25, 2019, 02:09 PM
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
So what’s the secret to your success on longevity of your motor. What whp And torque. I see clowns on her who were blowing motors left and right and they never tell the whole story, then they part out car and disappear and never heard from again and jump to a new platform. You are a perfect example of a veteran in terms of proving Evo is reliable as long as it’s not in the hands of some wanna be street racer.
Thanks for the kind words, being called a veteran evo owner made me smile haha
So tldr: Regular oil changes and a good tune(most important) make a world of difference.
Mar 25, 2019, 02:15 PM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Oh I also forgot to mention, any time I ran into a weird issue(such as when my radiator was leaking coolant) I would immediately pull over and get it towed to my shop to fix it. I've known too many Evo owners that will start overheating and will attempt to limp the car home. Just get AAA and tow it the second something doesn't feel right.
Mar 25, 2019, 04:36 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Oh I also forgot to mention, any time I ran into a weird issue(such as when my radiator was leaking coolant) I would immediately pull over and get it towed to my shop to fix it. I've known too many Evo owners that will start overheating and will attempt to limp the car home. Just get AAA and tow it the second something doesn't feel right.
then come on here with bs excuses.
Mar 25, 2019, 05:17 PM
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Mar 25, 2019, 05:35 PM
#7
Evolving Member
52k on odometer and the motor wasn’t healthy. I purchased a brand New OEM shortblock from Mitsubishi and
correctly getting the right parts together before getting it installed.
Last edited by japspec; Mar 25, 2019 at 05:48 PM.
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Mar 25, 2019, 06:14 PM
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
At least now you have a clean slate! Make sure you get a reliable tune and break-in properly and it should last a long time.
Mar 25, 2019, 06:38 PM
#9
In at 121k. Evo 9, bolts on and a tune. Was dyno'd at 340whp when it got its tune in 2011. Been left like that for the last 90k miles. I have been autocrossing every month for the last 3 years. Engine seems fine, no issues. My transmission, my transfercase were rebuilt. First gear chipped a tooth and wrecked havoc and ring and pinion (was junk per tre). Visually it looked fine, had no whine. He said it was bad(prob cracks you couldnt see with the naked eye. They use a dye to see them.).
I used amsoil ever since I had it. Currently using z-rod amsoil for engine, diaqueen for transfercase and rear diff, using motel in transmission after rebuild.
I used amsoil ever since I had it. Currently using z-rod amsoil for engine, diaqueen for transfercase and rear diff, using motel in transmission after rebuild.
Mar 25, 2019, 07:02 PM
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
In at 121k. Evo 9, bolts on and a tune. Was dyno'd at 340whp when it got its tune in 2011. Been left like that for the last 90k miles. I have been autocrossing every month for the last 3 years. Engine seems fine, no issues. My transmission, my transfercase were rebuilt. First gear chipped a tooth and wrecked havoc and ring and pinion (was junk per tre). Visually it looked fine, had no whine. He said it was bad(prob cracks you couldnt see with the naked eye. They use a dye to see them.).
I used amsoil ever since I had it. Currently using z-rod amsoil for engine, diaqueen for transfercase and rear diff, using motel in transmission after rebuild.
I used amsoil ever since I had it. Currently using z-rod amsoil for engine, diaqueen for transfercase and rear diff, using motel in transmission after rebuild.
Mar 25, 2019, 08:10 PM
#11
Evolving Member
Mar 25, 2019, 08:21 PM
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
The procedure we have always used at our shop is to start the engine with the fuel pump disconnected so that it doesn't run. This will prime the oil system. Then start the engine and let it warm up but don't let it idle too long past that as you don't want to get a ton of fuel in your oil(the rings haven't seated yet). Then go out and get it up to mid rpm without boosting and then let off the throttle to allow the engine to decel. Do this a few times, gradually increasing the RPM you start decelling at. Decel will create a high vacuum and help seat the rings. You don't want to go above 5500, but start at like 3k and work up in 500 rpm steps, decelling a few times for each step. As soon as this is done, pull it back inside and drain the oil while it's still hot. Put fresh oil in and take note of the odometer. For the next 500 miles you don't want to put a ton of load on the motor, try not to hit max boost. Also try to avoid cruising at the same RPM for too long. When you're cruising on the highway vary your speed a bit. Once you hit 500 miles on your new block you'll want to change the oil yet again and at this point it should be completely safe to load the motor just like you would in normal operation, although I try not to go too crazy for the first 1k.
There's alot of debate as to whether these steps are necessary, but they have never failed me or caused issues, and the motors we built and tuned are still on the road.
I recommend using amsoil break-in, Z-Rod or any other high zinc content oil for the break-in. I run Z-Rod all the time, but after the 500 miles it's not that critical.
Last edited by Fox_IX; Mar 25, 2019 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Forgot about amsoil break-in oil, which is awesome!
Mar 25, 2019, 09:17 PM
#13
Evolving Member
I'll just post here in case someone else has the same question
The procedure we have always used at our shop is to start the engine with the fuel pump disconnected so that it doesn't run. This will prime the oil system. Then start the engine and let it warm up but don't let it idle too long past that as you don't want to get a ton of fuel in your oil(the rings haven't seated yet). Then go out and get it up to mid rpm without boosting and then let off the throttle to allow the engine to decel. Do this a few times, gradually increasing the RPM you start decelling at. Decel will create a high vacuum and help seat the rings. You don't want to go above 5500, but start at like 3k and work up in 500 rpm steps, decelling a few times for each step. As soon as this is done, pull it back inside and drain the oil while it's still hot. Put fresh oil in and take note of the odometer. For the next 500 miles you don't want to put a ton of load on the motor, try not to hit max boost. Also try to avoid cruising at the same RPM for too long. When you're cruising on the highway vary your speed a bit. Once you hit 500 miles on your new block you'll want to change the oil yet again and at this point it should be completely safe to load the motor just like you would in normal operation, although I try not to go too crazy for the first 1k.
There's alot of debate as to whether these steps are necessary, but they have never failed me or caused issues, and the motors we built and tuned are still on the road.
I recommend using amsoil Z-Rod or any other high zinc content oil for the break-in. I run Z-Rod all the time, but after the 500 miles it's not that critical.
The procedure we have always used at our shop is to start the engine with the fuel pump disconnected so that it doesn't run. This will prime the oil system. Then start the engine and let it warm up but don't let it idle too long past that as you don't want to get a ton of fuel in your oil(the rings haven't seated yet). Then go out and get it up to mid rpm without boosting and then let off the throttle to allow the engine to decel. Do this a few times, gradually increasing the RPM you start decelling at. Decel will create a high vacuum and help seat the rings. You don't want to go above 5500, but start at like 3k and work up in 500 rpm steps, decelling a few times for each step. As soon as this is done, pull it back inside and drain the oil while it's still hot. Put fresh oil in and take note of the odometer. For the next 500 miles you don't want to put a ton of load on the motor, try not to hit max boost. Also try to avoid cruising at the same RPM for too long. When you're cruising on the highway vary your speed a bit. Once you hit 500 miles on your new block you'll want to change the oil yet again and at this point it should be completely safe to load the motor just like you would in normal operation, although I try not to go too crazy for the first 1k.
There's alot of debate as to whether these steps are necessary, but they have never failed me or caused issues, and the motors we built and tuned are still on the road.
I recommend using amsoil Z-Rod or any other high zinc content oil for the break-in. I run Z-Rod all the time, but after the 500 miles it's not that critical.
Mar 25, 2019, 09:19 PM
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Mar 25, 2019, 10:43 PM
#15
Re: the OP...
2006 with 135k
New shortblock (original motor had low compression)
Rebuilt trans (killed two 6spds before giving in to a 5)
Rebuilt rear diff (old one was worn)
Original t-case (proves car hasn't been mistreated)
Since purchase in 2012, the car has been at 400-480whp. Bought the car @ 115k. 20k miles is comprised of drives to meets, tracks, and doing laps. It's never been a daily driver.
2006 with 135k
New shortblock (original motor had low compression)
Rebuilt trans (killed two 6spds before giving in to a 5)
Rebuilt rear diff (old one was worn)
Original t-case (proves car hasn't been mistreated)
Since purchase in 2012, the car has been at 400-480whp. Bought the car @ 115k. 20k miles is comprised of drives to meets, tracks, and doing laps. It's never been a daily driver.