hi everyone never done this before so I've got a few questions
when changing valves do you need to port and resurface your head?
catch cans: what's better vented or sealed cans? what placement is best?
I know that the stock crankshaft is great for making power under 700hp, other than a weigh saver why should you upgrade from stock?
drop in pistons are they worth it or should I just bore out my block now while everything is apart?

my goal is to make a fun daily driver. my evo 8 has roughly 245k miles on it and the head gasket blew recently. so I was thinking upgrade it now while I'm taking things apart. I currently have a stock block and head. any part recommendations would be great. thanks in advance. I'm looking towards the 350-450hp range. I currently have in boxes; skunk2 IM. and 68mm throttle body, unknown performance EM. (previous owner gave it to me) hks ti exhaust.

 

Welcome to the Forum Scott.
If the head is coming off then its a good idea to have someone check and redo it. Headgames or a good local machine shop. Do it right once to avoid doing it twice.

Recirculated catch cans and a -10 line from the Valve cover would be my choice for less then 700/800whp+ street evo.

I would 100% get a larger crank to make more power under the curve and have a better driving car. Eagle makes an inexpensive 94mm or even 100mm. Or you could move into a Manley or k1 crank. That being said, you will want a larger turbo since a bigger engine will create more backpressure. I would slap a JB FP red on it with the mhi housing. Thats an easy ticket to 440-600ish whp depending on fuel. Response is near stock and back pressure is lower then a stock turbo.

A 100mm engine has been done for years and although not the greatest on paper its fine for most people with reasonable power goals/tuning/fuel.

You will want to talk to a build adviser/reputable shop/person and get oversized pistons and have the machine shop set the PTW properly. Its important to research and speak with someone that has good results with these cars. A check list is also a good idea.

Hope that helps.

 

For your low (relatively) power goals, the easy button is going to be an MHI housing FP red, and camshafts. Sell that intake manifold and throttle body, it's really not needed and most of the aftermarket TB's sacrifice idle control over the stock piece. The stock manifold is great for goals below 600whp, mitsu did a good job with it.

I'll second what Abacus said in the the ideal engine is really a 94mm stroker crank. There are shelf pistons to run that stroke with a 150mm rod so you can really build a 2.2L on somewhat of a budget these days, and it gives the best mix of engine geometry, and power/torque. It really only gives a very small amount of spool and torque vs a 100mm motor. But the geometry advantage is huge. The engine simply runs smoother and will last longer.