In the next couple years I plan on taking my built motor to 1000hp. Yes I know its a very big goal and would be alot of fun to do the work.

Car currently makes 676hp/536wtq going for 750hp had to switch to a 6766 turbo from my GTX3582R

How I drive my current car
- back and forth to work maybe 3 times a week 10 min drive if weather is good, never sees rain

- Car Meets & Date Nights

- Get on it at 3rd gear once in awhile, since my build last year pushed it maybe 7 times total.

I know parts break but just want to gauge lifespan or if I should save up 10k for a billet block

 

At that level, you're one bad tank of gas or one slight tuning mishap away from everything falling apart. The block isn't really a problem. Some time attack teams still run the stock block. Careful tuning and avoiding any detonation or pre-ignition is your main concern.

If you're going for a dyno number for bragging rights that's one thing. In your situation, I would immediately de-tune the car back to reasonable levels after that 1000hp dyno session.

 

thats good to know, more for bragging rights but going to get a system that can control the boost for pump gas and e85 at certain power levels. The tuner I use has tuned alot of evos and some at 1000hp so hes really good.

do I need to swap out the cranks? Currently have the stock one for now.

 

"Realiabe" and "1000whp 4 cylinder" are very relative terms.

This is not something you would be daily driving; it would really need a dog box for the trans to be reliable. It will require a 72mm turbo charger to make the number, and it probably wouldn't even be able to be limited to pump gas safe boost.

You should really ride in a car with a 6466 that makes 8-850 on ethanol. That's really the perfect street car with a 2.2L for "big" numbers.

 

Just throwing this out there , may not help you but could help others on their quest.

Its hard to make 1000hp on a 4 cylinder and have it be reliable . Sure the engine can make it but thats still asking alot from those cylinders. If you can get past that the transmission/clutch/dogbox really become a hurdle. They start to suck to drive or break. How many hard shifts do you get until the transmission needs to come back out. I think 600-800hp is a better place to live then 1000 for the drivetrain/wallet on this platform. A well tuned standalone is a must so that you don't burn up your investment in milliseconds. I don't know about you but I like to drive my cars hard each time I drive them. Thats what Its built for.


The gtx3582r is capable of 720whp or so on E85 and spools up well. A fat powerband for the street . 6766 will be a bit laggier but make more power. If you build another engine I would recommend going to a 94mm crank to help with the powerband. Going to a 4.31/4.11 will also be a good investment to calm the gearing down so the trans/tcase live longer IMO.

I know Javier from TRC and have spoken to him at length about his 1000whp evo 9. This is a perfect scenario. This car was professionally built and tuned well. Its been raced from 800-1000hp for about a decade. Stock wet block,Low compression 2.2 , custom geared drenth sequential, stock acd tase and rear diff. Its looked after carefully and kept in top condition . A standalone is key with the proper tuning and failsafe protection.

It ate two 4.11 geared oem transmissions and a built one so the decision was made to calm the gearing down and go to a drenth. Its got 7-10K miles of hard back to back street runs. Each time the car is driven its beat on. Javier told me its been shifted hard a "bagillion " times and " Its got 500-1000 pulls on it." It goes 80mph or so in first and goes well to 9200-9400.

IMO this it the ultimate recipe for a 1000hp street evo. Standard cooling system, AC,proper transmission,and tuned well. Runs 10.0 @155. Goes 190 in the 1/2 mile. Back to back runs and abuse on the street. On a 245-45-17 Drag radial.

I really need a second evo!

 

Man I really love that TRC evo! I've watched those video's a bunch of times, is he still building his r32? He hasn't posted any more updates about it sorry a lil off topic.

 

That by far is my favorite evo on YouTube!! They beat the hell out of that thing and it keeps going, shows how well a evo can take abuse with proper setup and the right build!!

 

I get that, I talked to one of my buddies and came to the conclusion that if the car can touch 1000 I would be satisfied.

Basically I would have 2 tunes for pump gas based on boost pressure to hit a certain amount, and 3 on e85 for the same-thing to make 500, 750, then 1000 for whatever goal or how I want to drive the car.

I just bought a 6766 and plan on making 720-750 on my setup,

I love that video and have seen it before which is one of the reasons why I want to take my car to the next step. I had a GTX3582R and maxed it around 676hp then decided to get a 6766 to make my 700hp goal.

But I dont plan on beating the car, basically to drive it whenever I want a thrill or take to a car show... more of a hey it made 1000 on the block.

I get that things will break and really depends on the driver, but my car is making 676hp why not take it further and build it so I cant beat a goal and be satisfied with the power

 

You don't actually drive, so you'll be fine...

 

cool thanks man

 

I’m in the process of building my Evo as well. I was making 820 on a 6466 on a built 2.0. Honestly, it was pretty fun to drive. Ended up with a spun bearing and sending a rod through the block. Ended up with a bullet billet wet deck block now. Going 2.3L now and I’ve been eyeing the xona 112-69. Waiting on my dog box to come in and quite a few other parts on the way. I don’t daily the car but I am planning on running it at the track.

 

This aged well. Since, you know, you own it now. LOL

 

Its funny how it all worked out. Being in Florida I heard about this car back in 2010. Then watched the videos of it over the years and thought if there was a high hp evo to own that would be the one. Low compression, sorted, sequential and super clean with 30K miles.

I've owned it almost two years and its been great. Changed the tune slightly for One Ethanol fuel, a motor mount, fuel pumps and filters. 2000 miles and over a 100 pulls in. Its fast and enjoyable each time I take it out.

Sidenote, I get the number 36 alot . Built a big truck last year and the engine serial number ends in 36. I was looking over the evo and noticed the M&W ignition box serial number.. ends in 36. Maybe it was meant to be.

 

The best way to make any turbocharged engine reliable is to not go crazy on compression. I know how to build a mean NA engine and the key is compression because you are at the mercy of 29.53, 1 bar, 100kpa, 14.7psi atmospheric pressure if you are at sea level. Sure its good for that initial low-end torque before boost comes in but the effective compression of static compression and forced induction is massive in comparison to lower compression and higher boost. If you are after off boost drivability go 2.2-2.4L for real grunt in torque over 2.0L lower torque.

Low Compression 8.8-9.5:1 + boost = lower effective compression wide tuning window. The TRC Evo runs 8.8:1 compression 2.2L that was built in 2007 that's 14 yrs 30k miles of the harshest of types of driving and like Abacus said it's really well tuned on a standalone and gets beat on everytime out.

High Compression 10.5.-11:1 + boost = higher effective compression narrow tuning window. I facepalm whenever I have seen a 10.5-11:1 compression Evo on FB or Instagram needing the engine rebuilt frequently because the variables are just stacked too great to end up being high power and reliable on a daily basis.

 

I agree with you.

The TRC Evo is actually 7.8:1 . The first time I looked at the timing map I had to step back. They are just numbers, each car likes what it likes. For being tall geared, large turbo and low compression it somehow drives really well.