How much would it cost to build a evo 8 or 9 shell
How much would it cost to build a evo 8 or 9 shell
So long story short I had some problems with my old evo so I no longer own it. Want to find a very clean low mile 8/9 shell.
it will be built for the street but it will see fre track days. I want to have the motor built right for 1000hp. I will have a safe tune for around 500hp and a kill mode tune for around under. I am looking to run a pte 6466 turbo or a pte 6766. I will want everything done to the car that is needed to handle all the power from motor to drivetrain. For sure will have a built 5 speed.
looking more for an evo 9 mr se clean shell. state doesnt matter
how much would a low mile evo 9 rolling shell with a stock drivetrain cost?
how much would a low mile evo 9 rolling shell with built drivetrain cost?
I know I can get a 0 mile built motor online but I would rather build it my self with help.
what is every part I should get to build the complete motor for 1000hp?
what is every part I should get for the drivetrain to handle all that power?
I wont put a roll cage in the car as I wonr track it enough and the stock evo 9 mr seats will do
What gauges and ecu should I run in the car?
I also love the sound of the drag exhaust what type of exhaust should i run?
I like the 9s better but I like the rumble of the 8 motors so maybe a 8 block with 9 head
Any pictures or links for parts would help.
I have a good amount of money to spend right now but not looking to go over board with how much I put into the car but yet again I want to do this right, take my time and not skip out on anything because I'm low on cash. If I have to wait later on till I have more money I will instead go going cheap. Some parts I'll buy used to save money but thats if there in good condition
Also I am doing my research on different Facebook pages, website and forums but I figured I'd ask here als . Thanks in advance
it will be built for the street but it will see fre track days. I want to have the motor built right for 1000hp. I will have a safe tune for around 500hp and a kill mode tune for around under. I am looking to run a pte 6466 turbo or a pte 6766. I will want everything done to the car that is needed to handle all the power from motor to drivetrain. For sure will have a built 5 speed.
looking more for an evo 9 mr se clean shell. state doesnt matter
how much would a low mile evo 9 rolling shell with a stock drivetrain cost?
how much would a low mile evo 9 rolling shell with built drivetrain cost?
I know I can get a 0 mile built motor online but I would rather build it my self with help.
what is every part I should get to build the complete motor for 1000hp?
what is every part I should get for the drivetrain to handle all that power?
I wont put a roll cage in the car as I wonr track it enough and the stock evo 9 mr seats will do
What gauges and ecu should I run in the car?
I also love the sound of the drag exhaust what type of exhaust should i run?
I like the 9s better but I like the rumble of the 8 motors so maybe a 8 block with 9 head
Any pictures or links for parts would help.
I have a good amount of money to spend right now but not looking to go over board with how much I put into the car but yet again I want to do this right, take my time and not skip out on anything because I'm low on cash. If I have to wait later on till I have more money I will instead go going cheap. Some parts I'll buy used to save money but thats if there in good condition
Also I am doing my research on different Facebook pages, website and forums but I figured I'd ask here als . Thanks in advance
Starting with a shell will cost a lot. Find a high mileage car that needs work for <$15k and go from there. To go from stock or stock-ish to a well built car that can handle the power of a 6466 on all of it, expect to spend $30k-$40k on the car between a motor and related parts, fuel system, drivetrain, suspension, and turbo kit.
As for the other questions, asking that type of stuff really says you're in over your head to put together a 900-1000hp car and should be discussing this build with a shop if you can't do the research on what parts you're going to need so you don't waste a bunch of money buying things twice, and/or fixing mistakes when the wrong parts break at 900 wheel.
As for the other questions, asking that type of stuff really says you're in over your head to put together a 900-1000hp car and should be discussing this build with a shop if you can't do the research on what parts you're going to need so you don't waste a bunch of money buying things twice, and/or fixing mistakes when the wrong parts break at 900 wheel.
Starting with a shell will cost a lot. Find a high mileage car that needs work for <$15k and go from there. To go from stock or stock-ish to a well built car that can handle the power of a 6466 on all of it, expect to spend $30k-$40k on the car between a motor and related parts, fuel system, drivetrain, suspension, and turbo kit.
As for the other questions, asking that type of stuff really says you're in over your head to put together a 900-1000hp car and should be discussing this build with a shop if you can't do the research on what parts you're going to need so you don't waste a bunch of money buying things twice, and/or fixing mistakes when the wrong parts break at 900 wheel.
As for the other questions, asking that type of stuff really says you're in over your head to put together a 900-1000hp car and should be discussing this build with a shop if you can't do the research on what parts you're going to need so you don't waste a bunch of money buying things twice, and/or fixing mistakes when the wrong parts break at 900 wheel.
CT9A chassis is the same year over year, only difference I found was my 2004 roller didn't have the mounting holes for ACD hardline, so save some money and get an 8 shell.
ECU will depend on MIVEC yes/no.
The more stripped the shell the bigger your headaches, so find something with all the under hood crap(power steering lines, yadda yadda) still in place or yer gonna have a bad time. Interior is easier to puzzle back together.
If you got space to work and wrenches to pull go for it. But it will be 20-25k just to get a functional car, stock kinda thing. Hiring a shop to assemble would add 10k to price, I did shop around to get quotes for mine 10-15k was answer and wait 6 months for time.
Huge bunch of butt pain...but Evo...so y'know, I'm always team rebuild!
Of note; all these guys know more about Evo than me, but I'm crazy and still say FRIGGIN BUILD IT MAN!!! Best way to learn.
ECU will depend on MIVEC yes/no.
The more stripped the shell the bigger your headaches, so find something with all the under hood crap(power steering lines, yadda yadda) still in place or yer gonna have a bad time. Interior is easier to puzzle back together.
If you got space to work and wrenches to pull go for it. But it will be 20-25k just to get a functional car, stock kinda thing. Hiring a shop to assemble would add 10k to price, I did shop around to get quotes for mine 10-15k was answer and wait 6 months for time.
Huge bunch of butt pain...but Evo...so y'know, I'm always team rebuild!
Of note; all these guys know more about Evo than me, but I'm crazy and still say FRIGGIN BUILD IT MAN!!! Best way to learn.
I can say I have a little over 8k in my block and head with a stock trans still, about 5500 in turbo kit top to bottom, about 2000 in ecu and harness, about 1000 in ignition, about 1750 in fuel top to bottom lines, afpr, rail, injectors etc. With that said with having everything depending on what kind of deals you can get I spent about 18,250 and I still need a tune about 1000 for flex fuel, and tires 850. Total amount 20,100.
An Evo is not the right car to buy if you want 4 figure HP. Thats only for proving points or the guys who have been doing it a long time and really know the ins/outs of 4g's. And even then, those motors are coming apart frequently.
You can do ~400hp on track or ~650 for street fairly reliably but definitely not trouble free. And it aint gonna be cheap to get it even there. Im sure its not what you want to hear, but gotta have some realism when asking for things like 1000hp.
You can do ~400hp on track or ~650 for street fairly reliably but definitely not trouble free. And it aint gonna be cheap to get it even there. Im sure its not what you want to hear, but gotta have some realism when asking for things like 1000hp.
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An Evo is not the right car to buy if you want 4 figure HP. Thats only for proving points or the guys who have been doing it a long time and really know the ins/outs of 4g's. And even then, those motors are coming apart frequently.
You can do ~400hp on track or ~650 for street fairly reliably but definitely not trouble free. And it aint gonna be cheap to get it even there. Im sure its not what you want to hear, but gotta have some realism when asking for things like 1000hp.
You can do ~400hp on track or ~650 for street fairly reliably but definitely not trouble free. And it aint gonna be cheap to get it even there. Im sure its not what you want to hear, but gotta have some realism when asking for things like 1000hp.
I can say I have a little over 8k in my block and head with a stock trans still, about 5500 in turbo kit top to bottom, about 2000 in ecu and harness, about 1000 in ignition, about 1750 in fuel top to bottom lines, afpr, rail, injectors etc. With that said with having everything depending on what kind of deals you can get I spent about 18,250 and I still need a tune about 1000 for flex fuel, and tires 850. Total amount 20,100.
You're on borrowed time running a stock trans. At that level you're going to want it gone through, and a billet 3rd and 4th installed, theres $4k. Otherwise you're likely to strip 3rd or 4th sooner rather than later. Built rear diff and tcase with aftermarket front diff, $3k.
Does your total include that $2200 triple plate clutch in your sig? I'm not sure how your fuel system was $1750. The BPR pump setup with dual 525's, -8/-6 lines and his relay box is $1350, and 2000cc injectors are $900, then you would be another few hundred in a rail and FPR. Proper catch can setup, looking at spending 5-600.
I'm sure your setup works, but your car is basically about halfway done to being a car I would be ok taking to a race and going rounds for a weekend. Not trying to be a dick, but it's the reality of putting together a solid build/racecar.
$8k sounds cheap for a motor. I have $8k in bottom end parts and head work, plus machine shop for the bottom end was about $1k. Then I assembled all of it.
You're on borrowed time running a stock trans. At that level you're going to want it gone through, and a billet 3rd and 4th installed, theres $4k. Otherwise you're likely to strip 3rd or 4th sooner rather than later. Built rear diff and tcase with aftermarket front diff, $3k.
Does your total include that $2200 triple plate clutch in your sig? I'm not sure how your fuel system was $1750. The BPR pump setup with dual 525's, -8/-6 lines and his relay box is $1350, and 2000cc injectors are $900, then you would be another few hundred in a rail and FPR. Proper catch can setup, looking at spending 5-600.
I'm sure your setup works, but your car is basically about halfway done to being a car I would be ok taking to a race and going rounds for a weekend. Not trying to be a dick, but it's the reality of putting together a solid build/racecar.
You're on borrowed time running a stock trans. At that level you're going to want it gone through, and a billet 3rd and 4th installed, theres $4k. Otherwise you're likely to strip 3rd or 4th sooner rather than later. Built rear diff and tcase with aftermarket front diff, $3k.
Does your total include that $2200 triple plate clutch in your sig? I'm not sure how your fuel system was $1750. The BPR pump setup with dual 525's, -8/-6 lines and his relay box is $1350, and 2000cc injectors are $900, then you would be another few hundred in a rail and FPR. Proper catch can setup, looking at spending 5-600.
I'm sure your setup works, but your car is basically about halfway done to being a car I would be ok taking to a race and going rounds for a weekend. Not trying to be a dick, but it's the reality of putting together a solid build/racecar.
I don't think your being a dick at all and I totally understand where your coming from. Clutch I have was converted from twin to tripple and cost on all parts being I have a cousin who works for Exedy USA. Total cost was about 800 bucks to convert at cost being I just freshened up everything.
I built an 8 shell in about 3.5 years time. Got it fairly cheap due to the condition it was in. It’s mainly stock, got an engine off eBay from an Airtrek and rebuilt/resealed everything but the crank/rods/pistons. Stock trans, stock RS/LSD tcase and rear end. It’s my first Evo so I wanted it close to stock.
People like to argue with me when I talk about this, for whatever reason, but I have less than 10k in a running driving Evo. Obviously a faster Evo would take a lot more $$
People like to argue with me when I talk about this, for whatever reason, but I have less than 10k in a running driving Evo. Obviously a faster Evo would take a lot more $$
Honestly, I don't think I could stomach doing it again, especially if I had to dump the money in up front. I built the car over years with money invested along the way. If I was to do it again I would stick with a smaller turbo and run the car at 450whp day in and day out. Ah well live and learn, I still love the car.
I built an 8 shell in about 3.5 years time. Got it fairly cheap due to the condition it was in. It’s mainly stock, got an engine off eBay from an Airtrek and rebuilt/resealed everything but the crank/rods/pistons. Stock trans, stock RS/LSD tcase and rear end. It’s my first Evo so I wanted it close to stock.
People like to argue with me when I talk about this, for whatever reason, but I have less than 10k in a running driving Evo. Obviously a faster Evo would take a lot more $$
People like to argue with me when I talk about this, for whatever reason, but I have less than 10k in a running driving Evo. Obviously a faster Evo would take a lot more $$
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