Not all v-band turbos share the same v-band flange.
For most common brands/options it comes down to the centering ring size- the male lip on the manifold outlet and matching female groove on the turbine housing inlet. Each brand has a different size groove, so some brand turbos will "fit" on another brand manifold flange but not always vice-versa.

The three most common sizes/brands we will be referring to first are on the top row; TiAL, PTE, and Garrett. The key thing to note is that while they all have different lip/groove sizes, they all share the same 3.00" outer dimension on the flange face which allows them to be clamped together as long as the groove in the turbine housing has room for the lip on the manifold. So for example, all three turbo/turbine housings will clamp onto a TiAL flanged manifold, and a Garrett turbine housing can clamp onto a PTE flange manifold, but you can't clamp a TiAL turbine housing onto a PTE flanged manifold (or a PTE turbo onto a Garrett flanged manifold) since to PTE lip won't seat into the narrower TiAL turbine housing groove. When there is a mismatch that still works, the housing won't self align to the manifold so you'll want to look into the 3 "windows" around the clamp to verify that the outside if the mating flanges are lined up before fully tightening the clamp down. Most v-band clamps won't do a good job of centering on their own without a matching lip/groove. It's usually a good idea either way (even if they flanges are made for each other) to verify the flanges are centered before tightening the clamp down since the male lip can be distorted if they aren't properly seated before fully tightening.



The common TiAL flanges are for essentially all current Xona Rotor offerings (their smallest all the way up to the 115-69S) and just about any turbo that TiAL offered a v-band turbine housing for (like many Garrett turbos years ago).
Common PTE "THV" flange covers turbos up to the 6766 and can fit a 6870 if using the THV5S housing.
The common Garrett flange fits most G/GTX turbos ranging from G25 to G35 and GTX35 etc.
The TiAL and PTE both have a 2" opening, with the Garrett using a slightly larger 2-1/8" opening.
It should be pointed out that we are only looking at the inlet flange and the manifold flange; not the slight differences between the outlet flanges and perhaps more importantly the different flange centerline dimensions that will change how far it will move the downpipe/O2 housing if the outlet is lower or sticks out more. Each brand has its own little variances and we build each of our kits around those exact dimensions.

The bottom two flanges are a huge step up in size and for large frame turbos. The flange on the left is for turbos such as GT42/GT45 and S400 with TiAL turbine housings, and the PTE on the right is for the TH4V turbine housing on the PT6870, PT7675 etc. These no longer share any dimensions we know of across different brands.

There are of course more specific v-band turbo flanges but these are the most common we've seen for DSMs and Evos.

Cheers,
Matt and Samantha

 

I've had to explain this to so many people over the years that vbands are not a standardized part. I've really come to dislike vband flanges the more I work with them. They're not bad for downpipes or catbacks but I'll never use another turbine housing with a vband inlet. Bolted flanges are just way more easy to work with and take a lot less fiddling to get everything lined up.

 

Ain't this the truth. I had v-band catback's and they have been awesome. Now after dealing with a turbo kit with a v-band for exhaust inlet (1x), exhaust outlet (1x) and for the wastegate (3x) it's a royal pain in the *** to line up all 5 bands and then get them to seat correctly. Takes me hours and a lot of swearing. Total royal pain in the ***.

 

The guys at Morrison fab, V-Band kit lined up like butter.

 

Of course it all easily lines up off the car not bolted up. Wait until you attach it to the head and exhaust, and then also after you put a bunch of heat cycles through it.

 

Already on the car attached, just haven't taken any pictures, this is when i first received it.

 

They have their pros and cons for sure. Not having a gasket can be a good thing for some endurance applications that tend to blow them out and the dimensions/packaging is REALLY nice for more O2 housing bend room and more freedom for turbo placement. They however don't install as easily as you would imagine when you're trying to hold the turbo in place with one hand and work the clamp in the other and also being "stuck" with one brand vs all T3 and T4 flanges being interchangeable across all brands (ignoring everything besides simply bolting on). As far as lining them up, the 8/9 standard placement worked out great where you can simply square the turbo to the block (using a square off that block casting pad and turbine outlet face) to orient it exactly how we mocked everything up during fabrication. So the same amount of variables/clocking as a bolted application.

Adding another variable to how things line up that also affect other bits down the line is a pain for sure. Like mentioned above, we can square the turbo off the block in standard placement 8/9 setups or note that our FF v-band setups are 1.5deg to the block to get started in the right direction. Just keeping them under-tightened enough to allow them to rotate until everything falls into place can go a long way- of course that's assuming it's made to line up to begin with.

Actually glad you brought that up- we only mock up the recirculated provisions when everything is aligned to the fixtures that make sure it all settles into place exactly how it will on the car. There is actually quite a bit of compensating for expected weld pull, order of welds/procedures, etc but that's a different subject. The cool part is that lining up the recirculated wastegate provisions/O2 housing/turbine housing off the car puts them in the correct orientation so the O2 outlet is now located right where the downpipe mates to it. So no need to even square the turbo to the block, you just know that it lines up where it should and settles itself into place. Worst case just leave the clamps with a little slack so they line up on their own once its all in place and finish tightening.
As far as heat cycles, things move around for sure from hot to cold to hot etc- that's why we don't recirculate without a flex bellow or double slip to allow for expansion. If you are referring to things changing over time and many heat cycles, probably happens a little but rather than hoping things settle into the correct spot over time... wouldn't you rather have them right to begin with?

Cheers

 

Really happy to hear that it saw daylight Looking forward to more photos and first impressions!