*SOLVED*Car just randomly coughed and shut off on me....waited for a bit and it started again ran for a couple seconds then shut off. 3 times it did this. Had been misfiring slightly in boost right before this. Thought it was plugs or coils. I swapped plugs, no change. Swapped coils and it ran for 2 minutes and I drove around the block perfectly fine, no boost. Thought I fixed it. Nope, shut off about 2 minutes after i brought it back to idle and hasn't started since. No codes at all. Swapped the plugs, coils, crank sensor, both cam sensors and MAP senor. nada. It just cranks and cranks. I noticed the fuel pressure after awhile went to 0 and wonts pressurize again. So checked the fuel system. Pump is getting power, relays and fuses are goof. Pump bench tested OK. Now I'm at a loss. It seems to be symptoms of a bad crank position sensor, but this is the 2nd sensor I've tried and the sensor tests fine. I'm not super great with electrical components so maybe I'm just ****ing it up.

**EDIT** CAR is tuned on SD

EVO IX built 2020 with about 3000miles on this build Mods
Built 4G64 2.4LWiesco HD pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff H beams 156mm
Tomei baffle
Balance shaft delete
Competition dual plate clutch
MIVEC head
GSC S2 cams
GSC beehives
GSC valve guides and stem seals
FP Green Journal w/ external Tial wastegateO2 dump 3" TurbobackETS 3.5" intercooler
Radium catch cans
Radium fuel rail FPR and pressure gauge
FIC 1450
Walbro 450LPH with hardwire kit
Tuned on 93

 

Hmm, I've been here before.

The first thing that came to mind was the crank position sensor, cam angle sensors, and map sensor, but I see you already checked those. Have you inspected the crank sensor trigger wheel that spins within the crank sensor? Could it be bent or upside down? I know it's keyed to the crank, but it can be installed upside down. There are also cam shaft trigger wheels inside each cam sensor housing to check. See if they came loose. The fuel pressure regulator should hold pressure for several minutes after cranking. If fuel is draining backwards or into the return line right away, you might have a bad FPR. I would also check mechanical timing to see if the timing belt might have skipped some teeth. Perhaps the timing belt tensioner pulley was not adjusted properly. I don't think the timing belt auto-tensioner would go bad this early.

Other things to verify:

1. Compression with compression checker gauge
2. Fuel with fuel pressure gauge
3. Spark - leave one spark plug out of the cylinder head and lay the threads on grounded surface with the fuel pump fuse pulled. Have someone start the car in neutral and look for spark.
4. Timing - inspect factory timing marks on valve cover to cam gears and crank gear/trigger to mark on oil pump front cover.

Just keep on digging, eventually you'll find the culprit.

 

First thing, slow down. You threw a bunch of parts at it without a diagnosis; sometimes this works but most of the time its throwing money away while getting more frustrated lol.

I'm going to agree with what Pal215 said for the most part.

-Verify spark
-Verify compression
-Verify fuel pressure

One of these is missing if the car just cranks and depending on which one will tell you where your issue is.

My gut is leaning towards your fuel pressure regulator or depending on the fuel pump, some have a bypass for excess pressure, its possible this failed and the pump is pumping but as soon as there is pressure the relief opens and jsut drops it back into the tank.

Post back results and we will get it sorted.

 

One time i had to smash 2 small washers to reduce their thickness and used them as spacers for the crank sensor, and it worked. I cant remember why i did that.
Is this car on SD btw?

 

Thats an odd one for sure. Seems weird that the spacing would be off like that.

 

probably some crank walk issue.. or maybe my replacement sensor didnt look centered?

 

Thanks for the ideas guys. Haven't been able to look at anything due to the hurricane and work. Hopefully I can get some time to chase down you're suggestions.
However, prior to the last replacement of the crank sensor, I did check for spark as I initially thought my issue was plugs or coils and I did have spark. At the time I had fuel as well, though I did not verify how much until after the last time it ran when I noticed my fuel pressure had dropped to 0.

I'm going to go back to square one and verify the big three and see where that puts me

 

So work got me swamped, but I finally got back to it and verified no spark, injector pulse or fuel pressure. All fuses relays check out. Tried reading the ECU via evoscan and OBD2 scanner and couldn't get a connection. Upon 2nd observation, turning the key doesn't show the CEL at all so I think I may have a bricked ECU.

Does anyone have any other ways of testing the ECU?

 

Before jumping to a bad ECU, I'd make sure the battery is charged up. These ECUs are pretty temperamental about voltage in my experience.

The fact that you have no spark, fuel pressure or injector pulse is interesting. The engine does crank though?

I can't remember what each sensor controls but its possible that you might have a bad crank position sensor, Vicious will know better than me on this one. The no check engine light on key on is a bit strange too.

 

might sound stupid but is your SD setup with MAF plugged in? Initially mine was and 3 days after tuning it wont start

 

*SOLVED* its always the little things. Went back to basics for the third time because I refused to believe the ECU just up and died. Lo and behold, fuse #8 under the hood was blown. How did I miss it the first few times? No idea, but I did. Shes back up and running now, just need to find the reason it blew. Thank you all for the suggestions.