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How to: install injectors!

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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #31  
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From: Chandler, AZ
also, guys, DO NOT forget to put a small dabb of oil around the injector o-ring. you dont want to insert them into the fuel rail dry, because THEY WILL tear.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #32  
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From: Hagerstown
wow, there is some good info in here
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 09:31 PM
  #33  
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I R&Red my fuel rail today. A few things that I did differently than in this how-to:

1) I disconnected the injector plugs first rather than last. Seemed to me that it would be easier to get those stupid little spring clips off with the injectors still firmly attached to something. Still wasn't easy, but I didn't drop any, so I am happy.

2) I left the fpr connected to the fuel rail and instead pulled the vacuum line that attaches to the fuel rail. I didn't see any point in removing the fpr from the rail.

3) I disconnected the vacuum line from the intake manifold that goes to the DV. Made it easier to maneuver the fuel rail in and out.

4) I disconnected the throttle cable mount that attaches to the back-right side of the valve cover area. This also made it easier to push the throttle cable out of the way.

5) I plugged as many of the exposed fuel lines as I could. No point in replacing injectors if they get filled with crud.


There was definitely no need to run the car with the fuel pump disabled to drain the fuel. Almost nothing came out.

So, I did reuse the rubber donuts that attach to the base of the injectors. After I got everything back together, I found that I could easily twist the fuel injectors. Has me a little worried that reusing those donuts was a bad idea. I'll see how it works tomorrow.

Last edited by mrfred; May 24, 2008 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #34  
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From: PHILLY
Im also putting in a fuel rail and 780 injectors this weekend. What should I change the injector scaling to for 780's? I already got a flash and I already changed a few things myself. I dont want to pay for another flash yet cause im getting my cams and meth kit installed in a couple weeks.
Originally Posted by elhalisf
do you have the tactrix cable?

you can temp. change the injector scaling from your stock injectors, 513, to about 850. that should get you there normally.
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:26 PM
  #35  
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From: cali
do you use the stock washer on denso 720
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:29 PM
  #36  
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From: Chicago
Very informative thread.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 01:56 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by evilevo22
do you use the stock washer on denso 720
??
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #38  
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In clamping the main fuel hose, can I loosen the hose clamp, slip it back on the fuel line and then clamp it down tight? What technique to stem the fuel flow from the fuel line works best/easiest?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by KazzEvo8
In clamping the main fuel hose, can I loosen the hose clamp, slip it back on the fuel line and then clamp it down tight? What technique to stem the fuel flow from the fuel line works best/easiest?

Thanks!
The return line can be clamped fairly far back so there is room to slide back the hose clamp. I've done injectors several times now, and I leave the fpr and the return line pieces attached to the rail. Here's how I do it:

1) Remove rubber DV vacuum line from intake manifold and from intermediate hardline that is attached to the valve cover.
2) Pull the vacuum line from the fpr.
3) Move throttle cable out of the way by pulling it from the retainer at the front of the valve cover and disconnecting the anchor at back-right side of valve cover. I move the throttle cable back against the firewall. There should now be a nice big opening for removing the fuel rail and injectors.
4) Stuff paper towels in the openings between the intake manifold runners. This helps prevent loosing clips, nuts, bolts, and injectors if accidentally dropped.
5) Remove clips and power plugs from injectors. Move them out of the way as much as possible.
6) Clamp return line, slide back hose clamp, and pull return line off the hardline. Pretty much no fuel will come out.
7) Put some paper towels under the delivery line. Remove the two bolts (a bit tricky, be careful not to drop), and slide out delivery line. A bit of fuel will spill, but not much.
8) Remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail and hardline to the IM. Be careful not to lose the plastic spacers.
9) Fuel rail with injectors, fpr, and hardline will come out easily as a single unit.

When reinstalling, I use masking tape to hold the injectors to the fuel rail because otherwise, the lube used when inserting the injector into the fuel rail causes the injector to fall out of the rail pretty easily.
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:48 PM
  #40  
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From: ?
I would not clamp the hose. I'd much rather de-pressurize the line, but thats just my personal opinion. And on a side note, make sure that you guys are oiling the o-rings before installation, because it is real easy to tear the if you push them straight in without lube and without twisting as you go. Also, make sure you guys are pressure testing the intake before you start to tune your new injectors.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #41  
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what should the injectors be lubed with petrolium jelly?
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Dingo7
what should the injectors be lubed with petrolium jelly?
Sure. I've just used motor oil.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:50 PM
  #43  
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From: ?
i always use a dab of new 10-30
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 06:11 PM
  #44  
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Couldn't get the pics to appear but now I see them.
Great thread!
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 12:56 PM
  #45  
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need to do this. thanks!
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