Evo's oil change with pics
How many quarts did you all put in? I put in 4.5 and I took the recommendation from cornercarver and ran half a quart through and alot of black stuff came out!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Rhino ramps from the local auto parts store are perfect and safe. It's hard to screw up anything as long as you don't start the engine with no oil in it! Oil change is a cinch--get the right wrench, an oil crush ring, a new filter, and oil and that's all you need! Recycle the old oil and filter hopefully at the same place you buy the oil at afterwards.
changing the tranny oil, transfer case oil, and rear diff oil is only a shade harder than doing the oil -- mainly it's just harder access to pour the new oil in.
you can do it
changing the tranny oil, transfer case oil, and rear diff oil is only a shade harder than doing the oil -- mainly it's just harder access to pour the new oil in.
you can do it
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Wine Country, CA
if that's true then you can likely use them but just have to make a small adapter using one or two thin wood blocks at the bottom of the ramp in front of the ramp--this keeps the nose from scraping when going up and down -- this is what I do for my other low cars and it works fine
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 477
Likes: 32
From: VT
Bumping from the dead because I finally decided to start changing my own oil today.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
Bumping from the dead because I finally decided to start changing my own oil today.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
has anyone used amsoil? it says they have a 0w-30 and a 10w30 for the evo. I use to run the 0w-20 in my mazda and was wondering if the 0w-30 would have any bad effects on the evo?
Bumping from the dead because I finally decided to start changing my own oil today.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
The ramps I use cost about 20 bucks total and work a lot better than rhinos. In fact, I made these when I noticed my old rhino ramps starting to buckle (yikes). This was mostly my fault though; the wooden blocks I had to put in front of them shook the ramps a little, which left my wheel hanging off the side a bit.
Also, you can more easily "step" your way up the ramp, as opposed to the all-or-nothing with the rhino. At least here, if you roll back a little, you don't go all the way to the bottom.
wow i never really thought of that good idea~ ! should maybe do a quick little write up with the lengths and what not
I know that's a member already posted a oil change's how -to, but somehow all the pictures link are dead. Just in case someone may need assist with the oil change
So, I had decided to post my oil change here, just in case someone may need it.
here's what you need: Mitsubishi oil filter with washer *(recommened,but not nesscary), oil pan, and wrench with 17mm socket
1st step: Jack your car up and hold it with jack stand or whatever that's safe. It's also better do it when your car is warm, NOT BURNING HOT, easier for the oil to drain.
Once you get under your evo, located the oil drain plug(left @ the picture) which at the passanger side. And that's the oil filter(sn# GGB) next to the plug.
Closer look of the drain bolt.
2nd step: Now grab the wrech with 17mm socket on, unbolt the oil drain plug. CAUTION: HUGH amount of oil will rush out once the bolt is removed, recommened for using glove.* And put the drain plug away, we gonna need this later.
3rd step: Wait till the oil drip out slowly, now remove the oil filter. * You can use filter wrench if you have one, i just use hand to loosen it. It's abit too tight sometimes.* CAUTION: some pretty good amount of oil will rush out once the filter is removed too.
Now, we learn it draining for awhile, at the other hand, we get the filter and drain plug ready. And get yourself a drink or whatever. Since it's always good to let all the old oil drain out.
4th step: Remember the drain plug? Keep your eye on the crush washer. Sometime it's pushed all the way to the edge. Nail it out. (old one still on the plug and the new one should come with the filter)
Old washer had been taken off.
Insert the new washer into the plug.
Take the new oil filter out, that's a plastic cover on it need to be remove.
cover removed.
5th step: After a period of time, oil not dripping any more. It's about time we get back to the car. Do as the instruction said on the filter. Put a small amount of the oil on the gasket of the new filter.
'Oiled' the gasket.
6th step: Tighten the drain plug and the air filter. *Don't over tight both of them. CAUTION: the filter should go in very easily, while it stated concting the base, you can either tighten it 1/2-3/4 of a turn or torque to 124 +/-18 in-lbs (about 11 +/- 1 ft-lbs).
7th step: Start pulling new oil into you engine. It's should be around 4.7 quart, check dip stick until it reach 'max mark' CAUTION: Don't overfill your engine oil.
8th step: close the cap, and start your car, let the new oil running thourgh, cheap any oil leak, and then check the dip stick again ('cause some oil will absorb into new filter), add oil to recommened level(owner manuel) if needed.
Last check and you're done.
I hope this little 'how - to' can help people when they needed it. I also posting this @ www.evolutionm.net and www.evosc.com. PLEASE DO NOT LINK THIS OR COPY THIS TO ANY OTHER SITE WITHOUT MY PERMEATION. Contact me @ redkaji34@yahoo.com.hk
ps. my english is not that good, so try your best to understand me, 'cause I had tried my best to make you understand
---Ray
in case if the picture link is down, you can go to my cardomain page:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2131955/7
So, I had decided to post my oil change here, just in case someone may need it.
here's what you need: Mitsubishi oil filter with washer *(recommened,but not nesscary), oil pan, and wrench with 17mm socket1st step: Jack your car up and hold it with jack stand or whatever that's safe. It's also better do it when your car is warm, NOT BURNING HOT, easier for the oil to drain.
Once you get under your evo, located the oil drain plug(left @ the picture) which at the passanger side. And that's the oil filter(sn# GGB) next to the plug. Closer look of the drain bolt. 2nd step: Now grab the wrech with 17mm socket on, unbolt the oil drain plug. CAUTION: HUGH amount of oil will rush out once the bolt is removed, recommened for using glove.* And put the drain plug away, we gonna need this later. 3rd step: Wait till the oil drip out slowly, now remove the oil filter. * You can use filter wrench if you have one, i just use hand to loosen it. It's abit too tight sometimes.* CAUTION: some pretty good amount of oil will rush out once the filter is removed too. Now, we learn it draining for awhile, at the other hand, we get the filter and drain plug ready. And get yourself a drink or whatever. Since it's always good to let all the old oil drain out. 4th step: Remember the drain plug? Keep your eye on the crush washer. Sometime it's pushed all the way to the edge. Nail it out. (old one still on the plug and the new one should come with the filter) Old washer had been taken off. Insert the new washer into the plug.Take the new oil filter out, that's a plastic cover on it need to be remove. cover removed. 5th step: After a period of time, oil not dripping any more. It's about time we get back to the car. Do as the instruction said on the filter. Put a small amount of the oil on the gasket of the new filter. 'Oiled' the gasket.6th step: Tighten the drain plug and the air filter. *Don't over tight both of them. CAUTION: the filter should go in very easily, while it stated concting the base, you can either tighten it 1/2-3/4 of a turn or torque to 124 +/-18 in-lbs (about 11 +/- 1 ft-lbs). 7th step: Start pulling new oil into you engine. It's should be around 4.7 quart, check dip stick until it reach 'max mark' CAUTION: Don't overfill your engine oil. 8th step: close the cap, and start your car, let the new oil running thourgh, cheap any oil leak, and then check the dip stick again ('cause some oil will absorb into new filter), add oil to recommened level(owner manuel) if needed.Last check and you're done.I hope this little 'how - to' can help people when they needed it. I also posting this @ www.evolutionm.net and www.evosc.com. PLEASE DO NOT LINK THIS OR COPY THIS TO ANY OTHER SITE WITHOUT MY PERMEATION. Contact me @ redkaji34@yahoo.com.hk
ps. my english is not that good, so try your best to understand me, 'cause I had tried my best to make you understand
---Ray
in case if the picture link is down, you can go to my cardomain page:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2131955/7
thanks again
nice write up, and good job on those wood ramps, they look like they work well. I have a hoist in my shop but i still need to jack up the front and rear a lil to get the hoist arms under the evo..
