Simple front camber increase
#31
I have a quick question, I spoke with the guy who does the alignments and he told me before I come in to get the eccentric bolts. What is the differece between those bolts and the ones that are already on the car? The suspension is stock and nothing was ever touched, and I want to add some more negative camber for autox events.
#34
Yeah, my driver's side seem to have less negative camber than the right after doing this. Maybe I will loosen both bolts on the strut and re-tighten to see if it's better.
#35
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I did this on my MR and then took it in for an alignment. Toe was .5 degrees in on both sides when they hooked everything up. Camber came out to -2.0 and -2.1 and I had them put toe to zero all around. I swapped the camber bolts in conjunction with drilling my stock sway bars. I posted the results here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=76883&page=3
#36
so would this also apply to the 02 lancers as well?.... I just installed new inner and outer tie rods, and went to Firestone to get an alignment.... Dude told me that my camber was off, and i needed new camber bolts for the front left and front right..... (pissed me off by trying to double charge me ($58) for the same SPC kit from O'rileys for $28)..... now I got a set of camber bolts and am wondering if i just throw them on the strut/hub assembly, or do i have to have the arrow a certain way?..... keep in mind im getting an alignment right afterwards, and its 1.5 miles down the road...... Y'all think ill be alright just throwing them on, considering they are gonna have to adjust the camber anyways. im tired right now so if im wording things wrong or not making any sense let me know.
heres pictures of the specs from firestone... yeah i know my passenger side is WAAAYYY off
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/SNC00060.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/SNC00059.jpg
Also, since the car is lowered 2" on Sprint springs and GR-2 struts, would i want to set the camber + or - factory specs or just leave it as the factory specs, if so would i do the same as the write-up mentioned by the Op?
thanx guyz
heres pictures of the specs from firestone... yeah i know my passenger side is WAAAYYY off
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/SNC00060.jpg
http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/SNC00059.jpg
Also, since the car is lowered 2" on Sprint springs and GR-2 struts, would i want to set the camber + or - factory specs or just leave it as the factory specs, if so would i do the same as the write-up mentioned by the Op?
thanx guyz
Last edited by Sn0w Man; Feb 3, 2010 at 11:51 PM.
#37
There are so many things wrong with this how to. I would not suggest this at home. Take it and have it aligned on a machine. Kyperion is exactly right is doesn't take much to really screw up your toe settings and destroy tires.
#42
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arrow is down although its tough to see, but u can see the flat spots are to the left and right not to the tab. I think its near zero camber as seen in the pic. I rub the fronts barely but I think if they would put camber up front I would be ok
Im trying to get these wheels to fit alittle better with no rubs. 18 x 8.75 + 20mm
245/40/18
#43
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What you can do is back off the nut so the bolt can move out then hammer the tab back in some so the flat on the strut matches the flat on the bolt. It really doesn't matter because once the thing is tight it ain't movin. Get an alignment and make sure the fronts match left to right, that's the important thing. There's plenty of slop in the adjustment bolts to get them the same.
You have to get the car on an alignment rack to see where you're at. Eye-ballin it ain't good enough. When you change the camber it affects the toe and if you don't adjust that then you burn up tires.
You have to get the car on an alignment rack to see where you're at. Eye-ballin it ain't good enough. When you change the camber it affects the toe and if you don't adjust that then you burn up tires.
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Aug 17, 2013 at 09:02 PM.
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