05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: florida
Guys i work for a evo shop in florida the way yall have explaned is so much harder to do ...... i can do a clutch in about 2 hours... first you take the dog bone mount off of trans and sub frame then u want to take the wheels off take the pin that hold the brake lines up and then take the two bolts out that go to the spindle and then pop the axles out and then u want to take the t case bolts out and the acd line and then take a slide hammer and pull the two shafts out on both sides of the tks and then pull the tks away from trans and you dont have to touch the drive shaft, then get your jake out of the trunk and put it between sub frame and the block in front of tks and jake the motor away from sub frame and that will give u plenty of room to get the trans out but leave the tks in the car ....and just pull the starter bults out and the one to the right of starter and then there are three bolts on top of trans and then theres one by the tks and that should be it.....it will slide right out ......if u have a push style cluth then u have to pop the ring off of the fork . and i think every one will no u have to take the trans mount off and all harness and shifter linkage and drain all fluids and remove down pipe and all that good stuff....one thing i didnt say is it might be safe to pull the radiator out so u dont break it.
I am going to make a post to try and make this a more formal how to, I will get some pictures when I get home later.
I am doing this from memory right now so I may need to correct this later. Also I am not sure if this is the best way to do it or not, it is simply how I did it.
Tools
17mm Socket
14mm Socket
6" Socket Extension
10mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
Pliers
Ball Joint Tool or Rubber Mallet
Step 1:
Remove 10mm bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft. Behind the gas petal, you will see where the steering shaft goes into the engine bay; there is a black plastic cover that surrounds the shaft. Remove this cover by just pulling up on it.
Now you will be able to remove the 10mm nut holding the shaft to the universal joint, with this nut remove you can slide the steering column up towards the steering wheel, you will need to use pliers to loosen the clamp that is higher up on the steering shaft in order to slide it up. By sliding it up towards the steering wheel it will come off of the shaft that goes into the sub frame.
Step 2:
There are two lines that need to be removed. The first is a power steering line; remove the bolt on top of the power steering pump. Now you can pull the line off the pump, be sure not to loose the washer. The power steering line is also held on by a bracket near the motor mount, remove this bracket as well.
There is also a coolant line that I removed, it is back near the strut tower, the rubber line connects to a hard line, at this connection I removed the rubber line. There is also a bracket that holds the rubber line on, remove this bracket as well.
Step 3:
Remove the steering links from the knuckle. There are ball joints on the end of the steering links, these ball joints are then bolted into the knuckle. First unbolt the nut on the ball joint. Personally I used a ball joint tool which looks like a big fork to pry the ball joint out of the knuckle. However, others have said they just used a mallet to hit the top of the ball joint and it came out. I was not so lucky.
Step 4:
You also need to remove the ball joint on the lower control arm from the knuckle, this is covered in all transmission install documents anyway so I will assume you have already done this. The sway bars should also be unbolted from the lower control arms by this point also.
Step 5:
There are now 6 bolts holding up the subframe. At the back of the subframe there is a 12mm bolt on each side, remove these.
Step 6:
Now use the 17mm socket to loosen the remaining two bolts and two nuts that are holding up the subframe. Position a jack or a friend under one side of the subframe and then undo the bolts on one side allowing the subframe to rest on the jack. Then I unbolt the last two bolts on the other side and support the subframe while we lower it to the ground.
That’s it. Re-install is just a reversal of these steps. Please let me know if I mad any errors in this guide or if there is an easier way to do any of these steps.
I am doing this from memory right now so I may need to correct this later. Also I am not sure if this is the best way to do it or not, it is simply how I did it.
Tools
17mm Socket
14mm Socket
6" Socket Extension
10mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
Pliers
Ball Joint Tool or Rubber Mallet
Step 1:
Remove 10mm bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft. Behind the gas petal, you will see where the steering shaft goes into the engine bay; there is a black plastic cover that surrounds the shaft. Remove this cover by just pulling up on it.
Now you will be able to remove the 10mm nut holding the shaft to the universal joint, with this nut remove you can slide the steering column up towards the steering wheel, you will need to use pliers to loosen the clamp that is higher up on the steering shaft in order to slide it up. By sliding it up towards the steering wheel it will come off of the shaft that goes into the sub frame.
Step 2:
There are two lines that need to be removed. The first is a power steering line; remove the bolt on top of the power steering pump. Now you can pull the line off the pump, be sure not to loose the washer. The power steering line is also held on by a bracket near the motor mount, remove this bracket as well.
There is also a coolant line that I removed, it is back near the strut tower, the rubber line connects to a hard line, at this connection I removed the rubber line. There is also a bracket that holds the rubber line on, remove this bracket as well.
Step 3:
Remove the steering links from the knuckle. There are ball joints on the end of the steering links, these ball joints are then bolted into the knuckle. First unbolt the nut on the ball joint. Personally I used a ball joint tool which looks like a big fork to pry the ball joint out of the knuckle. However, others have said they just used a mallet to hit the top of the ball joint and it came out. I was not so lucky.
Step 4:
You also need to remove the ball joint on the lower control arm from the knuckle, this is covered in all transmission install documents anyway so I will assume you have already done this. The sway bars should also be unbolted from the lower control arms by this point also.
Step 5:
There are now 6 bolts holding up the subframe. At the back of the subframe there is a 12mm bolt on each side, remove these.
Step 6:
Now use the 17mm socket to loosen the remaining two bolts and two nuts that are holding up the subframe. Position a jack or a friend under one side of the subframe and then undo the bolts on one side allowing the subframe to rest on the jack. Then I unbolt the last two bolts on the other side and support the subframe while we lower it to the ground.
That’s it. Re-install is just a reversal of these steps. Please let me know if I mad any errors in this guide or if there is an easier way to do any of these steps.
I just did this today. A few notes. The subframe bolts are 19mm & 14mm on the IX. Not mentioned in the write-up is the need to unbolt the dogbone mount ( I couldnt figure out what was holding me up
). Other than that it is pretty easy. Now it's time to do the clutch install.
Last edited by shunderwunder; Apr 8, 2008 at 08:30 PM.
all I have to say to this write up is.....!@@!#$^&%*!!@#! #$$!@^&*%(%$@#
I almost toke my car to the dealer to finish my clutch install because I could line up the tranny due to lack of room lol and well luckily a friend of mine on here shunderwunder told me about this thread earlier when we were talking about my install.....i will give this a whirl my next day off......
I almost toke my car to the dealer to finish my clutch install because I could line up the tranny due to lack of room lol and well luckily a friend of mine on here shunderwunder told me about this thread earlier when we were talking about my install.....i will give this a whirl my next day off......
^^yeah really I have been doing mine for the past two weeks, but understand I do not ever have off from work, in fact I live here lol....so I tinker here....and there.....and sometime here!!! 
all I have to say to this write up is.....!@@!#$^&%*!!@#! #$$!@^&*%(%$@#
I almost toke my car to the dealer to finish my clutch install because I could line up the tranny due to lack of room lol and well luckily a friend of mine on here shunderwunder told me about this thread earlier when we were talking about my install.....i will give this a whirl my next day off......
I almost toke my car to the dealer to finish my clutch install because I could line up the tranny due to lack of room lol and well luckily a friend of mine on here shunderwunder told me about this thread earlier when we were talking about my install.....i will give this a whirl my next day off......
I don't even have a LICP right now 
I'm still waiting on a flywheel (should be here by Friday) & a couple other small things & will need to get tuned when I'm done. It's a little scary doing all these mods at once without being able to test inbetween. I'm going from basicly stock to full bolt on with cams. All work done by me using install info found on the interwebs. I'm hoping for the best , but am prepared for some hicups. Should be fun when I'm done. It's killing me going this long without it.
I'm still waiting on a flywheel (should be here by Friday) & a couple other small things & will need to get tuned when I'm done. It's a little scary doing all these mods at once without being able to test inbetween. I'm going from basicly stock to full bolt on with cams. All work done by me using install info found on the interwebs. I'm hoping for the best , but am prepared for some hicups. Should be fun when I'm done. It's killing me going this long without it.
i think pic will help out alot here....this whole boot around the steering shaft I am just not understanding....im still looking for it lol Or a better decription on where it is at
It's a 10 on mine. It's near the floorboard under the plastic cover. After it is ouy you just release the tension onthe spring clamp further up the shaft. The clamp does not come off. You just compress the clamp & pull the shaft up. It slides pretty easily.
Last edited by shunderwunder; Apr 10, 2008 at 06:47 PM.