normal father league?

 

Lol nah Evo's are not normal so the drivers aren't either. Just National Fathers League

 

haha thanx!

 

How did you connect the new cable to the factory pos side cable?

 

it all comes apart its very self explanatory once you see it in person. you connect it all together then you electrical tape it with like 30 layers of electrical tape until its weather sealed/proof etc lol and tuck it under the air intake (in my case).

its really simple tho.. i had the same concern as you did.. i was thinking how do i connect the positive to the already positive terminal stuff.. and it just goes right with it. you keep the RING on there and just take it apart and add your new positive into it and its good to go. i wish i would have taken a pic as i was redoing it again.. i just did it again about a week ago cause i wanted to reroute everything so i had to take the wires apart to reroute them for my catch can install.

 

heres lines going beside where i ran it into the engine bay to get you an idea.



the ground wire you can ground from the trunk once you shave the paint bare.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but tscompusa, that's a nice looking engine bay. I guess I shouldn't expect less from an awesome tuner Also, reminds me I need to hook up my Saikou Michi catch can. I'm in the process of relocating my battery to the trunk and this will free up some nice space to mount it nicely on the drivers side of the engine bay. Time to get a nice short route UICP too and get rid of the junky Injen piece I have.

This battery relocation would be no more than an hour job, I swear I've spent 5 hours today driving around town buying parts and returning things because I found better parts for the job. FWIW to those interested, Walmart sells Group 24 battery boxes with a strap for 7 bucks. I initially didn't think it would work because it seemed too small but the battery fits snug in there. It also comes with a strap to hold the box together. The stock battery size is a group 35 I believe but this group 24 box works fine and is easier to find at most stores. I found a metal battery tray at Rural King for about 7 or 8 dollars I think. For now, I just bolted the metal tray to the pan in the trunk of the car on the passenger side and used the stock tie down brackets to secure the battery. The local 1/8 mile track here isn't very particular on tech inspections; as long as it's tied down they don't care. There is one hole in the passenger side of the trunk under the carpet that already that has a yellow clip in it that is threaded for a screw. I popped this clip out and there is a square hole. A 5/16 bolt fits in this and was perfect size for bolting down the battery tray. I drilled one more in line and closer to the rear of the car for the second bolt. So, 2 5/16 x 3/4" bolts with a lock washer and nut hold it in place nicely. Later on, I'll use the box and vent it and also install a kill switch behind one of the taillights or behind the license plate so I can pass tech at the 1/4 mile track. I saw some nice options from threads on here where people put it in one of the two places that are inconspicuous and prevented me from having to drill in the bumper or otherwise mess up the car. I ditched the spare tire and I'm using the bolt hole that it mounted in for my ground point. I stripped the paint off around the rim and also cleaned up the threads to clean metal for the grounding bolt/wire. The wire I found at a Tractor Supply Company. It's 12' of 2 gauge welding wire. I should have bought 14 because I don't think I'm going to have enough left to fashion a ground wire with it. I initially bought 14 feet 2/0 gauge from Lowe's but that stuff was junk. It wasn't fine threaded. It was just several thick threads of copper that wouldn't bend hardly at all and I don't think it would carry the power very well. This welding wire looks pretty nice, fine threaded(like audio wire) and was about $4 a foot. I'll post pics when I'm done of the trunk and also how I ran the wire. It's from the passenger side of the trunk over to the drivers under the back seat and along factory wire loom beneath the plastic trim and carpet. It comes out near the clutch pedal and goes through the rubber grommet in the driver's side fender. I haven't figured out how to route it into the engine bay but there is space and I'm sure a hole. I'll be using a plated distribution block to secure the main power source and run all the accessories off that. There are quite a few bundles of wire that originally went the positive cable/fuse end under the hood and I don't want to just ghetto electrical tape it all together. I'm going to take it all apart and mount it nicely on the fender well. One more thing, I'm using a 150A circuit breaker from Autozone. It has a reset switch. It was $30, if I can find another cheaper clean way, I'll probably return this and go with something else but it should be a nice way to prevent a short. It will be mounted to the battery box about 12" off the positive battery terminal.

I hope no one minds the long winded post, perhaps it will help somebody with their project.

 

There are some good write ups here. I think I am going to tackle this one at some point soon.
Thanks to all for sharing your experiences. More pics would be appreciated.

 

OMG thank you Connecting the power to power wire isn't really mentioned.. I'm thinking about running terminal posts in the front of my car to clean up the engine by and to jump my vehicle if needed.

 

Looking to do my relocation this way. The only question I have is where does this come out in the cabin, is it higher up in the dash area or down by the kick plate? Or is there another hole on the passenger side other than the one behind the pillar and the one near the axel in the middle tunnel?

 

Finished up my relocation today. Once I took the wheel liner off I saw that there were 2 gromets that went into the car one which was pictured above and where I ran my wire, and the other was the door gromet itself which was farther back and lower. Boy was it a pain to cut through the damn gromet too and feed my 0 gauge.