Headlight Adjustment
So, to avoid starting a new thread, I'll give this one a good bump.
I have an IX MR. Looking to adjust the level of the low beam (HID), but the pics in this thread are no longer working.
The only gear-eque thing I can find near the headlight is as follows (since the dead pics in this thread can't help me know what I'm looking for):


It appears to have a hex bolt end on the end that is probably 10mm. Is this what is being referred to, becuase it is exremely accessible.
What will this adjust? Anybody with an IX try this?
I have an IX MR. Looking to adjust the level of the low beam (HID), but the pics in this thread are no longer working.
The only gear-eque thing I can find near the headlight is as follows (since the dead pics in this thread can't help me know what I'm looking for):


It appears to have a hex bolt end on the end that is probably 10mm. Is this what is being referred to, becuase it is exremely accessible.
What will this adjust? Anybody with an IX try this?
Last edited by gkmunch; Sep 19, 2006 at 08:27 AM.
thanks!
will turning the bolt on the end make the adjustment, or will i need to turn the gears themselves with a phillips, torx, or flathead?
will turning the bolt on the end make the adjustment, or will i need to turn the gears themselves with a phillips, torx, or flathead?
Last edited by gkmunch; Sep 19, 2006 at 11:36 AM.
how much higher did you guys raise your headlights? I measured mine against a wall and at O on the electronic leveling switch they were at 24" exactly. Just wondering if anyone has measured and how high or how low are they measuring?
I'm so glad I found this write up. Every since I lowered my evo, the HID's have been pointing way too low.
I was able to adjust the pass side without any problems but of course the driver's side was a *****. First turn of the gear and *snap* one tooth broke off. So after removing the bumper and the headlight assembly, I was able to get ahold of the cable driven adjuster and I can now EASILY adjust the driver's side by turning the gear with my fingers. I've got them adjusted high enough so that I can actually drive with them on #1 in traffic (not blinding people) and then when I'm on back roads, click them up one notch to #0 and enjoy the HID goodness.
Thanks again for the write up!
I was able to adjust the pass side without any problems but of course the driver's side was a *****. First turn of the gear and *snap* one tooth broke off. So after removing the bumper and the headlight assembly, I was able to get ahold of the cable driven adjuster and I can now EASILY adjust the driver's side by turning the gear with my fingers. I've got them adjusted high enough so that I can actually drive with them on #1 in traffic (not blinding people) and then when I'm on back roads, click them up one notch to #0 and enjoy the HID goodness.
Thanks again for the write up!
ok i got evo9 mr,
all i need to do is turn the bolt (as shown on the picture above.) counter clock wise to raise up the low beam?
do i need to do this with ignition on and headlights on? or just off?
and does low beam and high beam are connected together on evo9 mr?
thanks~
all i need to do is turn the bolt (as shown on the picture above.) counter clock wise to raise up the low beam?
do i need to do this with ignition on and headlights on? or just off?
and does low beam and high beam are connected together on evo9 mr?
thanks~
I have to do this mod tonight and I would rather pull the bumper and both headlights to do the job right rather than strip some parts that will no longer allow me to adjust my HIDs from the cabin.
What is the SAFEST way to adjust these? I dont care if it takes 2 hours.
What is the SAFEST way to adjust these? I dont care if it takes 2 hours.
Finding this thread and the half-dozen others like it, the differences between model years seems minute. Mine is a 2006.5 XI MR, HIDs standard. There is one main adjustment point, the 10mm plastic nut that will raise/lower the high beams and HID (I haven't confirmed for myself that the fogs move too).
If the headlamp was pulled from the car and you were to look down on the 10mm nut, counter-clockwise turns raise and clockwise turns lower the beams.
What took me the longest to figure out: the large plastic gear that is back to back with another, similarly sized, plastic gear turns a 3rd, smaller plastic gear. The third gear is mated to a short cable that runs back to the rear of the HID lamp. Turning this gear by itself will raise/lower only the HID lamp.
Having spent a hours struggling with this, I think I found a reliable method that doesn't require bumper and headlamp removal:
1. adjust the passenger side first. My reason is that the 10mm was easily able to change the angle, no grinding, no popping the plastic gearing. It should require little to no effort to turn the 10mm nut. If significant effort is required and/or you start to strip the plastic gears (big or small), see step 2.
2. adjust the driver's side next. I found the 10mm would strip if any significant force is applied.
My remedy: unscrew 2 self-tapping plastic screws holding the cable guide/smaller gear to the adjustment nut (10mm deal). The smaller gear will fall off if you aren't careful.
In my case, the cable inside of the cable guide seized up and/or the gearing in the adjustment housing seized up. I worked it like I was tapping stiff steel - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back out. After a full revolution or two, the grease seemed to warm up and the gear would turn somewhat freely. I had to repeat the above a few times as the cable would bind from time to time.
As much as possible, try to keep the cable-housing slack. It will help to free up the cable inside if it doesn't have to deal with torque-friction in addition to the housing material.
Also, I found it helped to have a light shining into the gear-housing at the rear of the HID lamp to monitor any progress I was making. If you have the plastic/aluminum tab that covers the hole, I cut mine off by drilling 1/16" perforations every 1/4" or so, and working the plate back and forth. I did not need to do this for the passenger side, so it is still intact.
If the headlamp was pulled from the car and you were to look down on the 10mm nut, counter-clockwise turns raise and clockwise turns lower the beams.
What took me the longest to figure out: the large plastic gear that is back to back with another, similarly sized, plastic gear turns a 3rd, smaller plastic gear. The third gear is mated to a short cable that runs back to the rear of the HID lamp. Turning this gear by itself will raise/lower only the HID lamp.
Having spent a hours struggling with this, I think I found a reliable method that doesn't require bumper and headlamp removal:
1. adjust the passenger side first. My reason is that the 10mm was easily able to change the angle, no grinding, no popping the plastic gearing. It should require little to no effort to turn the 10mm nut. If significant effort is required and/or you start to strip the plastic gears (big or small), see step 2.
2. adjust the driver's side next. I found the 10mm would strip if any significant force is applied.
My remedy: unscrew 2 self-tapping plastic screws holding the cable guide/smaller gear to the adjustment nut (10mm deal). The smaller gear will fall off if you aren't careful.
In my case, the cable inside of the cable guide seized up and/or the gearing in the adjustment housing seized up. I worked it like I was tapping stiff steel - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back out. After a full revolution or two, the grease seemed to warm up and the gear would turn somewhat freely. I had to repeat the above a few times as the cable would bind from time to time.
As much as possible, try to keep the cable-housing slack. It will help to free up the cable inside if it doesn't have to deal with torque-friction in addition to the housing material.
Also, I found it helped to have a light shining into the gear-housing at the rear of the HID lamp to monitor any progress I was making. If you have the plastic/aluminum tab that covers the hole, I cut mine off by drilling 1/16" perforations every 1/4" or so, and working the plate back and forth. I did not need to do this for the passenger side, so it is still intact.
Well ..... tuning the light levels due to lowering should be an entire light hieght adjustment not the HIDs only. I would like to know how to adjust the drivers side housing without stripping the plastic gears. The 10mm nut on mine is very tight but the adjustment knob in the cabin works great.
Well had one headlight that adjusted fine---the other needed to have the cable removed and manually adjusted---I guess all depends on how gummed up the cable to the Lowbeam is as to weather or not you will strip the teeth on the gear..Thanks to those that posted...






