I used the "car idleing" procedure on my EGT. Even though most of the bits blew out, a couple were in the turbo rattleing around.
I boosted to max and they were gone. I still wasn't happy with hearing them in there.

 

I took the manifold off when I did my EGT. The first time is difficult, but once you figure out how to take off the manifold, you realize it's not that difficult. Definately need a lift, torque wrench, a bunch of extensions, and some thick cardboard and a sheet of packing material. I used the cardboard and packing sheet to protect the radiator. Even though I was putting some pressure on the radiator while trying to get the manifold off, there was no damage at all to the radiator. I loosened the dp at the cat, unconnected the upper and lower oil lines from the engine and oil pan, and pulled off the intercooler hose, and unscrewed the turbo mount bolt in order to get enough play in the turbo for the manifold to clear the turbo studs. I was having some trouble until I loosened the downpipe at the cat. Took me a whole day to finish.
Might as well do an oil change at the same time.

 

i definatly wouldnt do it with the manifold still on the car....that clinking sound u hear it the peices banging around in your turbo...scratching the inside...ill take the extra time and just remove it

 

Do you guys think tapping the downpipe right at the top by the flange would give much different readings as opposed to the manifold? I heard some 300 or so degrees, but it would save me a hell of a lot of money and I can do it myself. You can get a basline at the downpipe and add the difference? Won't the temp rise and fall be linear so the correction factor would work? Who knows.

 

not sure if it applies to the evo or not but on a volvo 850 turbo, the egt should read around 800-1000 after its warmed up and you are crusing

cruising at 65mph on the highway you should see right around 1200...pushing boost you should go past 1400 otherwise you are running lean and now you have an "official" excuse to buy bigger injectors or some kind of fuel management system or upgrade your ECU program

best of luck

 

At full boost I see my egt peak at 790C which is 1454 farenheit. What do you mean by saying , "pushing boost you should go past 1400 otherwise you are running lean "? I thought running lean would cause a greater temp increase, not a decrease? please explain. At idle I am reading 490c which is equal to 914F. At cruising i see around 650C which is 1202F. This is in the same ballpark as your figures.

 

I'm curious as well