Yes.
​​​​​​There are many ways to do this. This is how I would do it. If I am doing this, I would put cylinder 1 to TDC, stuff cylinders 2 & 3. Compress rope a little by rotating pass TDC and lock crank. Then do the work with one eye watching the timing belt. Always keep it tight so it can't skip a tooth on bottom. Check timing marks after install and make sure all are passed TDC by that little bit to compress rope. Reverse back to TDC, verify it all lines up, then remove rope. Rotate 6-12 cycles and check marks again. As I recall, it takes 6 rotations to line timing marks up each time.
If first time, don't feel bad if you have to reset timing. GL

 

Compress rope just a little. Remember, as you move passed TDC, cylinders 1 & 4 start opening. You have maybe 5 mm of cushion, so don't compress too much.
You can stuff cylinders 1 & 4 as insurance. Or do 1 & 4 at TDC reinstall cams and rotate 2 & 3 to TDC and finish. It is more work, but you can't drop valves inside if each cylinder is at TDC.

 

I just wanted to post some results here, I didn't use rope at all...I went to TDC on 1/4, 2/3 and did it. No issues, and the valves barely even dropped, maybe 2mm. Everything is running great, and once I figured that out, the install was super easy. Compressed air and the rope aren't really needed if you just use a positive stop, or just eyeball the moment of TDC (where it pauses before dropping back down during the rotation) with a long extension or something.