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EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links

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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 07:42 AM
  #436  
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Seems like no one has replied to anyone all this year, except the one in may...im getting ready to do this tonight and hoping all goes well. Just hope i have wifi so i can leave this link up...
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #437  
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Originally Posted by BOOSTHX
Seems like no one has replied to anyone all this year, except the one in may...im getting ready to do this tonight and hoping all goes well. Just hope i have wifi so i can leave this link up...
Just drop me a PM if you have any trouble.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:51 AM
  #438  
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Thanks. I sure will.
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 02:23 AM
  #439  
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I have followed these instructions and as a shade tree mechanic can say they do save time. Many thanks for the quick steps. Please make sure you follow them all the way through. I have done most of this without any other help, but believe me, you will get frustrated working by yourself. It is possible though. Waiting on the new ACT SS clutch to arrive by UPS... hopefully today. Since this is my son's car, I am breaking knuckles and he is serving our country. Semper Fi...
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 05:23 AM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by Sloater
I have followed these instructions and as a shade tree mechanic can say they do save time. Many thanks for the quick steps. Please make sure you follow them all the way through. I have done most of this without any other help, but believe me, you will get frustrated working by yourself. It is possible though. Waiting on the new ACT SS clutch to arrive by UPS... hopefully today. Since this is my son's car, I am breaking knuckles and he is serving our country. Semper Fi...
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 03:35 AM
  #441  
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I followed these instructions and yes they are good... two areas of caution...
1. The TOB clip in the pressure plate is a real pain in the butt, be very careful to get it aligned properly or you will have to back off the tranny to recover and replace the clip in the pressure plate... Is there a record out there? If so, I probably challenged it... 4 times before I got it... talk about frustration. There is one good thing, once I got it, I had a beer before finishing the bolts...
2. The output shafts in the transfer case... These were pretty tricky but I did not want to weld a bolt to my slap hammer... I used a standard piece of 1 inch pipe (2 inches in length) and two end caps. I drilled a hole in each end cap, one for the 8 mm bolt and one to fit the slap hammer bolt. secure both with extra nuts and you have a very easy extension to the slap hammer... so much for the "special tool" .

Tip #3 - get plenty of beer before you start, there will be frustrating moments, but you can do this by yourself, I did... :-)
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 07:27 AM
  #442  
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links for pics didn't work....
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:53 PM
  #443  
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My buddy and I removed my transfer case today. It took a few hours but it was actually kinda fun. You gotta have the right tools though. If it wasn't for that, I would probably have laid under my Evo and dropped the car on myself to put me out of my misery.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #444  
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very detailed i love it.....great how-to write-up, looking forward to using this info soon
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #445  
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great writeup. Will make use of it when it comes time for the exedy twin disk install.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #446  
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Input shafts for the diff wont come out

Okay, been stuck for a week on this. Trying to remove the input shaft in the transfer case I've got a properly threaded slide hammer and it's my understanding that only the driver side needs to be removed. I've wore myself out trying to get that shaft to come out and have gotten enough force on it to rock the car on the jack stands (yea, that's a bit scary). Car is an 05 MR edition with the 6sp. Is there something more that needs to be done with the 6sp that isn't listed here? In all the writes up I've found it makes it seem like the thing should just slide out with a few wacks of the slide hammer.

This thing is driving me nuts. Any suggestions are appreicated.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #447  
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It shouldn't require enough force to rock the car. The shafts are held in place with the same circlips that hold the driveshafts in. A couple of quick pulls with a slide hammer really should just pop them out without too much effort. I don't know what else could be holding you up.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #448  
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From: Newport News, VA
Well, I found the trick to the output shaft, but first: I spent several days trying different methods of getting it out. Finally sourced a slide hammer and got it threaded correctly and it still didin't come out. Then I discovered the trick. There is a tiny bit of play in the shaft in and out. So, with the slide hammer in place, I pushed the output shaft as far in as it would go and one quick slide of the hammer and it popped right out. After all the hassle of trying to hammer, pry, and yank that damn thing out and it came out so easily I just had to laugh.

Now to figure out how to get enough torque on the top rear tranny to block bolt (next to the VSS) to get it broken loose with out removing every damn wireing harness in the engine bay (which are all in the way).
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #449  
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I've got the tranny seperated from the block by about an inch, but it doesn't want to move any more than that. Seems like it's pivoting on the throwout bearing. I performed that step and got a "twang" when I turned the screwdriver. I'm assuming I did the step correctly but I'm not possitive at this point. Anyone got a picture or can describe what it's supposed to look like when that step is done correctly?


At this point, I'm thinking I should have just taken it somewhere and had it done.

Anyone in the Hampton Roads area of VA wanna help me yank this transmission off?
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #450  
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From: Newport News, VA
I can get the transmission seperated from the block by about an inch, then it appears to be hung up on something. I can't find anything that it's snaging on or bumping into. I've got the wedge collor seperated from the throwout bearing or at least I think it did it right. Had no problem with the clutch fork trying to move and it's at the "A" or drivers side position as stated in the evomoto how to. Still, no amount of prying, pulling, shaking, or anything has been able to move the tranny any further from the block.

Any suggestions?
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