I found what happened. I think when we were putting the tranny up that it damaged that diaphram spring thing that holds the TOB in the clutch. Now it just moves in and out. I hope I can find a way to fix this with out disassembling everything again.

 

what do you mean in and out?

 

He means that the TOB is no longer holding the tranny to the car. It sounds like you need a new TOB.

 

You prpbably already figured this out, but I have never been able to get it out if I have removed or loosened the bolts on the transfer case. It had to be fully installed and the shaft just pops right out with a puller.

 

What shaft are you talking about?

 

Just got done with mine today. One thing I would like to add, is make sure you pop the throw out bearing back onto the pressure plate. I got in my car after i had lowered it back down, and pressed the clutch........WTF??? it wont budge......so I crawled up under the car again ( after jacking) and looked through the inspection hole to see that I didnt connect the throw out bearing to the pressure plate.......WHEW! I thought I was going to have to pull the tranny out again......what a relief!

oh, and another thing.....the output shaft IS hard as hell to get out.......put in the bolt, take a big crow bar and wedge it against it, then take a BIG hammer and bang the **** out of it......mine came out, but only after lots of negotiation

 

i think this is my problem. how did you get it in?

 

manually pull the release lever towards the way of engaging the TO bearing

 

jus though i would throw out that when i was doing this for the shaft on the drivers side where most have use a dent puller tapped to get it out... i found out that the timing belt tension tool that u use for cams is threaded the same so i screwed it in and used a slide hammer that i rented for free and it was a breeze.. just an idea

 

Thanks a million Joe - you da man - gonna try this shyt with an ACT SS this weekend!

 

we should probably post something up that mentions not only the tools (which I think was mentioned by Joe) but all the contingent items with part numbers, that may need to be replaced, such as the TOB, o-rings, gear oil, tranny oil, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, etc. I am putting together a stock hold of these right now to pull the tranny for a horrible noise issue (shop put in new clutch, they won't take it back to find out the problem), and I am having a tough time finding all the part numbers.

 

Update: Cant get the output shafts out of the car, my BFP will not work because I am doing it in my garage, and there isnt enough clearance. The slide hammer that I have from auto zone is too big to fit in there... oh well, no rush, I will figure it out eventually.

 

I'm sorry if this is off topic. I noticed this write up is very different from the EVOMOTO.COM writeup. I was wondering which is a better guideline to use? I am also curious as of how long this typically takes a novice? After looking at the evomoto writeup I figured this is fairly easy job and would maybe take me 5 hours. My friend and I are pretty experienced [just did two engine swaps in a day (240sx)] but have never done a Evo clutch (transverse layout). I'm getting very anxious because a lot of you are taking a couple days to do the job, 20 for experienced and 9 hours for a mechanic. I'm also 20 so I can't let my car sit anywhere for long and if I screw something up I won't be able to pay for it.

 

dude, if you can do two motor swaps in a day (even if it is on 240 ) you'll be just fine with an afternoon. I'm not a professional mechanic but I've done a lot of other work and my first time it only took me 7 hours and that was trying to figure everything out with virtually no instructions.

Since then I've been able to get it down to 4 hours flat (provided I have a lift), just pray that you never have the occasion to do that many of these to have to get that good at it. They're not as much of a ***** as these guys make it out to be, but it's not like frosting a cake either.

 

okay, I read the evomoto writeup and have some comments.

it was a good writeup, and the guys were thorough, but perhaps a bit too thorough.

0. you won't need to take off the downpipe unless you're having big clearance issues with the starter (which usually isnt' the case)
1. you don't need to take the xfer case out of the car, I don't know why they even tried as it's an exercise in futility without taking off the propeller shaft (aka driveshaft).
2. you don't need to take the lower radiator hose off or drain coolant, not sure why it was optional
3. you don't need to take the vss sensor out of the trans.
4. you don't need to take the flywheel inspection plate off the car
5. you shouldn't even pry near the ball joints, don't risk damaging that rubber for a second.
6. you won't need to take off the rear trans mount, it's a pain even to try, just take the dogbone out of the mount
7. you don't need to remove the fender splashguard, though it may make things easier to see if you want to get your whole head in there and poke around

8. I think everyone should write these guys a thank you email for providing such a well documented install in any event. It's stuff like this that makes the community so great to be a part of!