EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links
Originally Posted by 144mph
okay, I read the evomoto writeup and have some comments.
it was a good writeup, and the guys were thorough, but perhaps a bit too thorough.
0. you won't need to take off the downpipe unless you're having big clearance issues with the starter (which usually isnt' the case)
1. you don't need to take the xfer case out of the car, I don't know why they even tried as it's an exercise in futility without taking off the propeller shaft (aka driveshaft).
2. you don't need to take the lower radiator hose off or drain coolant, not sure why it was optional
3. you don't need to take the vss sensor out of the trans.
4. you don't need to take the flywheel inspection plate off the car
5. you shouldn't even pry near the ball joints, don't risk damaging that rubber for a second.
6. you won't need to take off the rear trans mount, it's a pain even to try, just take the dogbone out of the mount
7. you don't need to remove the fender splashguard, though it may make things easier to see if you want to get your whole head in there and poke around
8. I think everyone should write these guys a thank you email for providing such a well documented install in any event. It's stuff like this that makes the community so great to be a part of!
it was a good writeup, and the guys were thorough, but perhaps a bit too thorough.
0. you won't need to take off the downpipe unless you're having big clearance issues with the starter (which usually isnt' the case)
1. you don't need to take the xfer case out of the car, I don't know why they even tried as it's an exercise in futility without taking off the propeller shaft (aka driveshaft).
2. you don't need to take the lower radiator hose off or drain coolant, not sure why it was optional
3. you don't need to take the vss sensor out of the trans.
4. you don't need to take the flywheel inspection plate off the car
5. you shouldn't even pry near the ball joints, don't risk damaging that rubber for a second.
6. you won't need to take off the rear trans mount, it's a pain even to try, just take the dogbone out of the mount
7. you don't need to remove the fender splashguard, though it may make things easier to see if you want to get your whole head in there and poke around
8. I think everyone should write these guys a thank you email for providing such a well documented install in any event. It's stuff like this that makes the community so great to be a part of!
Your shortcuts might save me an hour or so. I was wondering if it is okay to use a impact wrench to loosen any bolts on the transmission? I think that area might be too tight to use a breaker bar.
This sunday I'm going to use the evomoto guideline along with some of your comments and see how it goes. If I get in a pickle I'll refer back to joes's guideline.
Originally Posted by Joe's_EVO8
The second time I did it was in one day around 11 hours with a twin disc. I think you will be fine to tackle it in a day.
You CAN use air to loosen, be more conseravtive with air when you put it back together
Alright I will comment. No problem.
Step 6, I never removed the speed sensor, I left it in the trans and had no problems. You can disconnecth the clip to it and move the wiring out of the way.
Step 8, You don't have to disconnect the starter, it can be moved out of the way
Step 11, you can disconnect the 19mm bolts that hold the strut to the hub assembly and this should give you ample room. Disconnectin the ball joints and doing all this extra work doesn't seem to be needed. If you go this way be VERy careful prying the ball joint, it can let go unexpectdely
Step 12, Not needed as step 11 seems to be over kill. Before you do what I said above make sure you loosen and remove the axle nut and carefully work it loose in the wheel bearing splines, this makes it easier to remove after you took out the main structure support of the hub/strut to the car after you remove the 19mm strut bolts. It will be aquakward to put in/take out the axle without removing the hub although it is really the way to go. Much better than prying some balljoints
Step 14 is accurate, a good workaround, be creative here. Be careful with the c-clips though on the output shafts, they will break if too much force is used
Step 17, Good luck removing the transfer case. The best way I would do this would be to drop the steering rack
STep 18-20, I don't see their logic in sequence but it works
Step 21, That is an EXCELLENT picture of how to free the TOB.
The rest seems ok. I think the EVOmoto is a great supplement to what I wrote up. At least I get the rights for doing it first! =) Good Luck!
Alright I will comment. No problem.
Step 6, I never removed the speed sensor, I left it in the trans and had no problems. You can disconnecth the clip to it and move the wiring out of the way.
Step 8, You don't have to disconnect the starter, it can be moved out of the way
Step 11, you can disconnect the 19mm bolts that hold the strut to the hub assembly and this should give you ample room. Disconnectin the ball joints and doing all this extra work doesn't seem to be needed. If you go this way be VERy careful prying the ball joint, it can let go unexpectdely
Step 12, Not needed as step 11 seems to be over kill. Before you do what I said above make sure you loosen and remove the axle nut and carefully work it loose in the wheel bearing splines, this makes it easier to remove after you took out the main structure support of the hub/strut to the car after you remove the 19mm strut bolts. It will be aquakward to put in/take out the axle without removing the hub although it is really the way to go. Much better than prying some balljoints
Step 14 is accurate, a good workaround, be creative here. Be careful with the c-clips though on the output shafts, they will break if too much force is used
Step 17, Good luck removing the transfer case. The best way I would do this would be to drop the steering rack
STep 18-20, I don't see their logic in sequence but it works
Step 21, That is an EXCELLENT picture of how to free the TOB.
The rest seems ok. I think the EVOmoto is a great supplement to what I wrote up. At least I get the rights for doing it first! =) Good Luck!
I'd be careful about removing the 19mm bolts where the strut mates to the spindle as you'll need an alignment afterwards as it will certainly change the camber. Of course, you could mark it with a sharpee before and carefully set everything back, but this isn't 100% accurate even under the best of circumstances.
The only problem I've seen with the ball joints was where they popped out with minimal effort, and instead of being mindful of the exposed rubber boots, the tech let it flop right back into the sharp edge of the brake dust shield. That was a $50+ mistake...
Joey is right, that's a very very nice pic of the TOB which is a delicate matter in comparison with all the grunting and heavy lifting of the other steps. If you manage to catch the output shaft on the TOB clasp ring in the process of putting the trans back in the car, you've got to do the whole thing over again, otherwise the TOB won't 'catch' in the ring once it's secured together.
With all this focus on how much time it takes to get the job done, I think it should be mentioned that the ultimate goal here isn't to get it done quickly, but properly. Make sure you give yourself enough time to work with and if you get to a sticking point, hop online and post a question rather than trying to force it and potentially extend the downtime. In fact, Deca, check your PM's.
The only problem I've seen with the ball joints was where they popped out with minimal effort, and instead of being mindful of the exposed rubber boots, the tech let it flop right back into the sharp edge of the brake dust shield. That was a $50+ mistake...
Joey is right, that's a very very nice pic of the TOB which is a delicate matter in comparison with all the grunting and heavy lifting of the other steps. If you manage to catch the output shaft on the TOB clasp ring in the process of putting the trans back in the car, you've got to do the whole thing over again, otherwise the TOB won't 'catch' in the ring once it's secured together.
With all this focus on how much time it takes to get the job done, I think it should be mentioned that the ultimate goal here isn't to get it done quickly, but properly. Make sure you give yourself enough time to work with and if you get to a sticking point, hop online and post a question rather than trying to force it and potentially extend the downtime. In fact, Deca, check your PM's.
Also, just a side note after doing it last weekend... use at least TWO jacks when pulling the tranny out, I noticed someone posted something about it and didn't think much of it, but you HAVE to lift the rear of the tranny higher than the front to clear the sub frame, when removing AND re-installing... otherwise it is a big bitc h. And, if you dont have any grease GET SOME, and grease the pivot points on the fork-to-TOB, otherwise you will get added decel noise (horrible noise), which is why I took the entire tranny out to begin with, unidentified noises.
When you move the transfer case out of the way, dont just leave it sitting proped up to the side, because it's not enough, you will score the machined surfaces when trying to pull the tranny out, tie it up with string to the strut bar, it also makes for easier install.
This job took me a bit of time, but I torqued, and re-torqued... EVERY bolt, because of the issues I was having with the obnoxious decel noise.
Good luck!
When you move the transfer case out of the way, dont just leave it sitting proped up to the side, because it's not enough, you will score the machined surfaces when trying to pull the tranny out, tie it up with string to the strut bar, it also makes for easier install.
This job took me a bit of time, but I torqued, and re-torqued... EVERY bolt, because of the issues I was having with the obnoxious decel noise.
Good luck!
this is a great write up i basically followed this and got my torque specs off evo moto.... but it did it on jackstands in 10-12 hrs in 30-35 degree weather what fun but it went well!
This past weekend i did an install on a 2005 evo. Basically the install is all the same except you need to deal with the ACD. There is a post floating around about how to do it without removing the ACD line i tried this method which was to back the bolt out as your pulling the ACD so your dont need to disconnect the line. Anyway i couldnt find the leverage to break this bolt loose because you can only get to it with a 17mm wrench. After giving up on this method i figured i would just take the ACD line loose and save myself headace and trouble. After removing the ACD line with a 22mm socket the line will begin dumping ATF fluid all over. I just plugged the line off untill i got the bolt out of the T-case and reconnected the line making sure to put the 2 brass washers back on each side of it. Then continue thru the install just as if it was an 03-04 model. Once you get back to the ACD just follow the steps reveresed to put the bolt back in.
Ok so now you have everything back together you need to bleed the ACD make sure you top of the fluid for the ACD its ATF III rated fluid. Get someone in the car and someone under the car the person under the car needs to break loose the bleeder screw on the ACD 10mm wrench and a piece of plastic line for spotting bubbles. Get the person in the Car to turn the key to the on postion but not start the car and have them press the gas pedal to the floor. This will turn the ACD pump on for 5 seconds. Repeat this process till there are no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw. close it and your done!
Ok so now you have everything back together you need to bleed the ACD make sure you top of the fluid for the ACD its ATF III rated fluid. Get someone in the car and someone under the car the person under the car needs to break loose the bleeder screw on the ACD 10mm wrench and a piece of plastic line for spotting bubbles. Get the person in the Car to turn the key to the on postion but not start the car and have them press the gas pedal to the floor. This will turn the ACD pump on for 5 seconds. Repeat this process till there are no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder screw. close it and your done!
^so it really does work!? i've been asking if this method of bleeding would really work in other posts, you're the 1st person i've seen that actually tried it and it worked! awesome!
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Hey guys, I'm obviously new here and I want to say thanks for that awesome write up, it's helped me quite a lot. I'm doing a clutch replacement on a 2006 Evo RS and it's proving to be quite the pain in the ***. I've gotten to the remove tranny part and I can't get the stupid thing out. I've completely destroyed the throwout bearing in there and I know it's at least detached from the release fork if not from the pressure plate. All of the bell housing bolts are removed and the tranny is seperated from the block by about an inch, it just won't come the rest of the way. Any ideas as to what else could be hindering this?
I'm not a novice to this, I've done it several times before on other cars, but the Evo is proving to be the worst one I've done yet. BTW I'm a Subaru guy and I can't understand why Mitsubishi designed a car to be like this, it makes no sense and it's the worst thing I've ever seen. Don't get me wrong, I love the car and up until now I wanted one, but now I refuse to work on them ever again.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
I'm not a novice to this, I've done it several times before on other cars, but the Evo is proving to be the worst one I've done yet. BTW I'm a Subaru guy and I can't understand why Mitsubishi designed a car to be like this, it makes no sense and it's the worst thing I've ever seen. Don't get me wrong, I love the car and up until now I wanted one, but now I refuse to work on them ever again.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Anub1s
Nope no 12 mm bolt. I already removed that.
Last edited by kcevo; Mar 7, 2006 at 02:03 PM.