anyone have any tips for getting a 6-speed back up in there with the car on jackstands. i'm having a hell of a time getting it to fit by the subframe and side frame rail for reinstallation. been at it for a few hours now with an engine hoist to know avail. and the 6-speed is heavier than me probrably. must be bigger dimensions than the 5-speed because it isn't going in. please advise.

 

How is it not fitting? I am not sure of it being much different in dimensions. Have you re moved the t-case from the car? I would suggest doing this if you need more room to move the motor around.

 

the TC is moved aside. the clearance is fine there, it's just where the gear selectors are on the 6-speed is just below the frame rail, so it's difficult to get those by the frame rail and the back by the subframe. it's extremely tight, it must have to be positioned perfectly, guess i'll have to try some more tommorrow.

 

Careful with the gear selectors as those can be easily bent. Don't ask me how I know. Best of luck. This is kind of heard to give you advice.

 

finally got the trans back in the other day(with some help from 3 new friends that have done an MR before)and all i can say is that it's worth the money to just have a shop do it because it's a PITA! i'm very mechanically inclined, and if doing it on jackstands you need a jack, an engine hoist, and at least 3 people to get it back in. for one thing, the 6-speed case is a bit bigger, it's also a bit heavier, but the gear selectors are what gives the most clearance issues since they're counterweighted and bigger than the 5-speed as well as being in a difficult to deal with location. they're right up against the framerail directly behind the driver side motor mount so it's very difficult manuevering the beast past the subframe and side framerail while lining up the input shaft. you have to make a lot of adjustments mid lift to clear everything as well as lowering the whole motor and moving it forward slightly(requiring radiator removal). oh, the reason i got it off and couldn't get it back on is because you can booger up your pressure plate/retaining clip taking it out but you have to be very careful putting it back in. if you can't get the MR tranny out without damaging the retaining clip you won't be able to get it back in. good luck to anyone attempting to change their MR clutch on the floor in your garage, this is my last time, next time it's going to a shop!

 

Did you read the first paragraph of my post? Sounds like you are mechanically declined...

 

not really, you don't have an MR and haven't done a clutch on one so maybe you shouldn't jump in about it. i'm more than able to perform mechanical work to a vehicle, i've performed clutch and transmission installs in DSM's, honda's and mustangs, assume what you will. trust me, it's a little different than the 5-speed. i don't think you're rude comment was really neccessary, i'm just giving other MR owners a little heads-up so they know what they're getting into. there are other steps that have to be taken to successfully do the clutch swap in the 6-speed cars that aren't listed in any of the write-ups from you or evomoto. probrably why a lot of shops charge an extra hour labor for an MR. thanks for your help though, i didn't bend my gear selectors!

 

How would you know that I have not done a clutch in an MR? Nice assumption.

I have done clutch jobs on 10 or so EVO's and one happened to be an MR. I am the club Mechanic for miEVO.net.

I respect you did it yourself although I sat back and read what you wrote and it looked very incomplete and unknowledgable. This makes it difficult for me to take anything you wrote as the grail because I have done it before.

 

if you have, you'd know exactly what i was talking about with the shift selector clearance issues, know that the 6-speed is larger and heavier than the 5-speed, and you probrably would have given me the advice that a shop owner on this forum did to get the tranny back in which requires passenger side mount removal and radiator removal instead of "hard to advise", the shop owner that has an MR and works on many knew exactly what i meant and exactly how to fix it, that's why i assume you haven't done one. maybe you have, but i'd like to know how you did without taking these extra steps since that's how this guys shop and the local mitsu dealer do it. anyway, i'm done wasting space in an otherwise useful thread, if anyone needs more details you can PM Joe since he's the self-proclaimed MR clutch expert that knows how to fit the tranny in/out without any extra steps compared to the 5-speed. you win joe, i have no idea what i am doing or taliking about.

 

the 6 speed linkage is definetly different...

obviously the clutches are a good bit of work,

why would shops charge 500-750 and why would the dealer charge 1200?

anyway...

5 and 6 speeds are a bit different.

but hey, dont ask me, i have both

cb

 

I don't need your crap. There have been a few that I removed the radiator and dropped the steering rack down an inch without removing it. If you follow what the dealer does it involves removing the entire steering rack and supporting the engine with a very large tool that braces both strut towers. I will pass on this!

I know the MR is a bit larger, I also know that there are more than one way to get clearence from the motor when moving around the mounts and etc. All I was trying to stay when I replied to your post is that since your writing was shallow that seemed like your knowledge was limited and thus you maybe should have taken it to a shop. I am happy that you gave it a shot on your own, I imagine your frustration came out in your post and that is understandable. Best of luck in your future endeavors.

 

hondafan,

Thank you for the info regarding the MR tranny but stop with the negativity. We're all happy you figured your problem out but don't jump on someone because they didn't hold your hand through the project. You decided to tackle the job yourself instead of take it to a shop. Take the fact that this network of enthusiasts is even here at all as a bonus.

Now on another note the Performance Tool compact dent puller part # W2015P threads wonderfully into our front half shafts to pop them out with little if any effort.



It's the smaller of the two obviously and can be found here at my tool store or at Pepboys for around $6.50.

 

You can unbolt that shift selector from the tranny to get more clearance.

 

sorry, joe. it kind of upset me when you called me "mechanically declined" with a laughing smiley behind it since this couldn't be farther from the truth. really with the 6-speed though, it becomes neccessary to get the motor lower in the engine bay rather than dropping the subframe some because you need to pretty much get the bellhousing on before it can come up and have clearance at the side rail for the shift selector. i did try to remove the selector with no luck and the service manual is very vague about where the snap ring holding it in is, i did PM marksae to see if he could clarify since it's removal would make this job just as easy as the 5-speed. keep in mind though, the service manual states that the snap ring and o-ring for the selector should be replaced. mitsuorder, does that puller's end directly thread into the shaft's without the bolt? anyway, i apoligize for the negativity.

 

No probelm, thanks for not blowing up at me for trying to smooth things over Yeah the end on that puller is already of the proper thread and pitcht. I was so happy when my test nut threaded right on there I think I let out a whoo hoo aloud in Pepboys!