EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links
we tried those ways. The tranny jack with the tilt didn't work for us. the damn tranny is just too bulky. Best way to get it in is pick that bish up and slap it on there.
Jackin the engine up from the bottom helps also since the angle causes the tranny not to fit on properly..
how to:
lift it up with rear mount kind of upward get the gear set in the hole
twist it it back
may have to turn the crank
jack the engine up to seat the tranny on the engine the rest of the way
Jackin the engine up from the bottom helps also since the angle causes the tranny not to fit on properly..
how to:
lift it up with rear mount kind of upward get the gear set in the hole
twist it it back
may have to turn the crank
jack the engine up to seat the tranny on the engine the rest of the way
UPDATE FOR ALL MR OWNERS-HOW TO GET THE SHIFT SELECTORS OUT OF THE TRANS!
this will make it much easier to get the trans past the framerail, and this info was generously donated to me by shep. make sure you buy a new o-ring for the shift selector base before removal as the old one will be oil soaked and deformed. remove the 5 bolts on top of the trans that you can see visually holding the gold selector arms in. now when those are removed you'll notice that something else is holding it in, but what? there should be a gold bolt on the side of the tranny going in perpendicular to the shift selector that needs to be taken out and the selector assembly should then slide out and be removable. haven't been able to test this yet, but i trust sheps word. wish i knew this when doing my clutch! let me know how it works out for you guys that do try it, should help a bit.
PS-you have to shift in into 2nd gear first. to do this, pull the lower selctor(without the counterweights)toward the framerail, and push the top selector(smaller counterweight of the 2)toward the front of the car. same on install. torque spec for the bolts removed is 21 lb/ft for the single bolt and 65 in/lb for the top 5.
hope this works!
this will make it much easier to get the trans past the framerail, and this info was generously donated to me by shep. make sure you buy a new o-ring for the shift selector base before removal as the old one will be oil soaked and deformed. remove the 5 bolts on top of the trans that you can see visually holding the gold selector arms in. now when those are removed you'll notice that something else is holding it in, but what? there should be a gold bolt on the side of the tranny going in perpendicular to the shift selector that needs to be taken out and the selector assembly should then slide out and be removable. haven't been able to test this yet, but i trust sheps word. wish i knew this when doing my clutch! let me know how it works out for you guys that do try it, should help a bit.
PS-you have to shift in into 2nd gear first. to do this, pull the lower selctor(without the counterweights)toward the framerail, and push the top selector(smaller counterweight of the 2)toward the front of the car. same on install. torque spec for the bolts removed is 21 lb/ft for the single bolt and 65 in/lb for the top 5.
hope this works!
Last edited by hondafan; Mar 20, 2007 at 08:31 AM.
question,............. what supports the engine? If their is only one motor mount left holding it in. Do you just keep a jack under the drivers side of the engine or do you just let it hang? Might be a stupid question, but I feel like I'm looking over something there.
yeah that's pretty much what we did getting it off. I was just worried that with it hanging there the pulleys might press up against the fender well or something. Just don't want to mess that stuff up because I missed something.
question,............. what supports the engine? If their is only one motor mount left holding it in. Do you just keep a jack under the drivers side of the engine or do you just let it hang? Might be a stupid question, but I feel like I'm looking over something there.
the passenger side mount.
You don't have to have a jack unnder the engine, but if you leave the car overnight it might be a good idea.
It will be okay for a few hours though
Joe.........Thanks for the write up !!
I started last night got up to the point of drianing the transfer case......About to start with axles........
Quick qeustion tho....I need to remove the transfercase to am replacing it is whinning....any steps inbetween that I should be working on to make this as easiest possible to get both out?
Should remove transfer case before removing tranny??? And vice versu do I reinstall transfercase before tranny goes back in???
Whats your thoughts?
I started last night got up to the point of drianing the transfer case......About to start with axles........
Quick qeustion tho....I need to remove the transfercase to am replacing it is whinning....any steps inbetween that I should be working on to make this as easiest possible to get both out?
Should remove transfer case before removing tranny??? And vice versu do I reinstall transfercase before tranny goes back in???
Whats your thoughts?
Hopefully i can get this done b4 12pm. Ill probably start @ 9. Whats the easiest way to get that rear mount out? anyone?
Im up to the point where I have 3 bolts to take outta the transfer case. then take the rear mount off. I strongly suggest putting a jack under the engine. Why? if u let the engine hang its puts a lot of pressure on the water pump with is hitting the frame.
Hopefully i can get this done b4 12pm. Ill probably start @ 9. Whats the easiest way to get that rear mount out? anyone?
Hopefully i can get this done b4 12pm. Ill probably start @ 9. Whats the easiest way to get that rear mount out? anyone?
Rear mount, just use wrenches and get it out from the top..
Lining it back up to get the bolt back through might be a pain though.
The actually mount bracket don't have to come off... just the bolt holding the mount
Last edited by FastAzzEvo; Apr 6, 2007 at 07:26 AM.
Well, finally got mine back together. That's the unholiest thing I've ever had to lift back up into a car. LOL
Overall not to bad of an install. It was very time consuming and as long as you can remember where all the bolts go it's not that bad. Only SNAFU we had was I found the drivers side lower control arm boot had a small hole in it and is leaking grease. So you guys might want to watch out for those things.
Now one thing that i'm not real sure about and I can't find anything in the how-to on this. But on the shifter linkagae their is the white piece of plastic that is kind of u shaped. I circled it in the picture. This is how mine sets on the car. Is this normal? it seems like it should be setting some other way. But I wanted to see how everyone else's looks. If anyone could help on this I'd appreciate it.
Overall not to bad of an install. It was very time consuming and as long as you can remember where all the bolts go it's not that bad. Only SNAFU we had was I found the drivers side lower control arm boot had a small hole in it and is leaking grease. So you guys might want to watch out for those things.
Now one thing that i'm not real sure about and I can't find anything in the how-to on this. But on the shifter linkagae their is the white piece of plastic that is kind of u shaped. I circled it in the picture. This is how mine sets on the car. Is this normal? it seems like it should be setting some other way. But I wanted to see how everyone else's looks. If anyone could help on this I'd appreciate it.
Hi all
I must say at the beginning that I already changed once clutch on evo 8 by the evomoto writeup. It took me day and half. The biggest problem it was getting tranny of the car, because there was very small place around body and cross member.
So I spotted somewhere on the net that guys remove complete cross member and also T case. Then the tranny goes down with no problem.
Also this procedure is usual in rally racing, where 3 mechanics change the tranny in 45 minutes.
So it should be faster change that way? What also is necessary to remove in that way?
I must say at the beginning that I already changed once clutch on evo 8 by the evomoto writeup. It took me day and half. The biggest problem it was getting tranny of the car, because there was very small place around body and cross member.
So I spotted somewhere on the net that guys remove complete cross member and also T case. Then the tranny goes down with no problem.
Also this procedure is usual in rally racing, where 3 mechanics change the tranny in 45 minutes.
So it should be faster change that way? What also is necessary to remove in that way?
I remove the crossmember when doing a clutch install, tranny or transfer case service. It may actually take a bit longer but I consider it to be the proper way to do the job since it frees up so much more working room







