QTP Downpipe(cutout) Install
Jan 18, 2008, 11:02 PM
#1
QTP Downpipe(cutout) Install
This install is pretty general, and probably could be used to install just about any Downpipe. Just skip the Actuator Steps.
Okay here is how it's done.
Tools required (how I did it)
FloorJack
2 Jackstands
1 Wheel Chock (or a brick or something)
Some sort of breaker bar or metal pipe about 3/4" in diameter
3/8 drive with sockets 10mm to 17mm
Dremmel Tool with metal cutting wheel (may not be needed)
Zip ties (lots)
2 Small electrical taps (explained below)
Flathead Screwdriver
Jack the car up so you can access the downpipe (instructions for this can be found everywhere). I used the front towhook-area floorjack spot as per the tech manual. Be sure you put some jack stands under it though, and chock the back wheels.
Lets begin..
THE DOWNPIPE!
1. Remove the front crossbar.(2 bolts)
2. Remove 2 bolts towards the drivers side on the rear crossbar.
3. Loosen the remaining bolt on the rear crossbar and swing the bar away.
4. Loosen the 2 spring-bolts holding the DP to the O2 housing. (use breaker-bar!)
5. Set an extra jackstand under the Cat-converter. (I used the small box that the cutout and hardware came in)
6. Remove the 2 bolts hanging the DP on rubber mounts before the cat.
7. Remove the 2 bolts holding the DP to the cat, the cat will fall so re-read step 5. You will need to use the breaker bar (or pipe) for this. There are 2 gaskets that will fall also, keep them.
8. Remove the 2 spring-bolts holding the DP to the O2 housing being careful not to let it fall. It is heavier than it looks, then set the stock DP aside.
!Important!
Now that the Downpipe is out.....
If you look above the cat there is a factory heatshield. This thing is a piece of garbage, and if it isnt rattling now, it will in the future. Mine started rattling right AFTER (doh!) my QTP DP install. It rattles because the larger flanges on aftermarket pipes(and downpipes) hit agains the edge of it and bend it all up causing an even bigger rattle. While the DP is out, I suggest you take a dremmel tool with metal cutting disc and cut the heat shield back so that once the DP is installed the shield will NOT be over the DP's flange. Some people beat it to the frame, others screw it into the frame, but that is what worked best for me.
9. Remove the Donut Gasket from the O2 housing if it did not come out with the DP. Chances are it is stuck in the O2 housing! It is going to be replaced by the QTP one. I used a hammer to get a flathead between the o2 housing lip and the donut gasket. This destroys the factory donut gasket though. It feels like hard metal but it is really soft, and breaks away easily. You might not be able to see where the o2 housing begings and the donut gasket ends because of all the deposits inside the exhaust. Wipe away the lower lip and place the flathead like in the picture at the end of this post.
10. Clean the surface of the o2 housing where the new gasket will be installed.
11. Slide the circular gasker (supplied with DP) over the o2 housing lip.
12. Slide the new Donut Gasket (supplied with DP) Over the o2 housing lip.
13. Place the QTP Downpipe in position against the o2 housing and insert the 2 bolts intended to replace the spring bolts (supplied with DP). Hand tighten those bolts, so the DP can lightly hang but is still supported.
14. Place the 2 factory metal gaskets (the ones from earlier) between the qtp DP and Cat, then use the factory bolts to connect the DP to the CAT. Tighten these fairly tight but not torqued yet.
15. Install 1 of the factory bolts to hold the QTP pipe to the rubber hander that was removed earlier.
16. Tighten the 2 bolts holding the DP to the CAT. Then Tighten the 2 bolts holding the DP to the o2 housing. Those 4 bolts have to be really freaking tight, but DO NOT strip out the o2 housing threads!!!
17. Swing the rear crossbar back into position and bolt in. The front crossbar will probably not fit without spacers, thats up to you..
The tough part is over! (for the most part)
THE ACTUATOR!
18. Place the triangle (3 holes) gasket between the Cutout Hole on the DP and the actuator, use the 3 smaller bolts and nuts (supplied with the DP) to bolt this on pretty tight.
Note: The actuator should face down slightly, if its pointing down flip it over! You want to keep as much clearance as possible.
19. Remove the drivers-side doorsill. It just unclips from the frame.
20. Unsnap the kick-panel in front of the doorsill.
21. Remove the Drivers Footrest (the plastic block) by popping open the little panel in it and removing the nut. Then use a flathead to loosen the circular plastic nut (built in to the footrest) and remove.
22. Pull the carpet back and pop out the rubber grommet.
23. Run the cable from the actuator through the hole in the floorboard. I cut a small hole in the grommet just big enough for the cable and placed it around the cable and plugged the hole with it.
24. Run the cable up the left side and under the steering column (be sure it doesnt interfere with pedals and steering!).
25. Secure the cable under the car to the frame with zip ties, I used some heat resistant loom as well.
26. Re-install all components in the drivers side floorboard in opposite order.
27. Mount the switch somewhere! (I did not because I will be using a custom switch setup)
28. Attach the cable from the actuator to the switch.
29. Use electrical taps toWire the red wire from the switch to a 12 volt remote source. (One that is hot when the ignition is on)
30. Use electrical taps to Wire the black wire from the switch to a good ground.
Now take the car off the Jacks!!
Go Back and Check Stage!
31. Go back and make sure all the bolts and things are tight.
32. Turn the key to ON (do not start).
33. Check to see if the actuator(cutout) opens and closes. Then close it completely.
34. Start the car and check for any exhaust leaks, let it run for a couple minutes then turn off.
35. With the exhaust warm go back and tighten the bolts holding the DP to the O2 house and the DP to the Cat. Dont burn yourself!
36. Start her back up and check the operation of your new DownPipe!!
Done!!
Images
This picture identifies major components and shows you where to start chiseling to remove the donut gasket from the O2 housing.
The Switch
The supplied switch from QTP is ugly to say the least. I have decided to go a 2 switch route, that being one DPDT and one SPDT push-button momentary. The wiring diagram is in the following image..
In this image you see two switch setups. One shows the DPDT open and the other shows it closed. What this does is allow you to select between open/close on the toggle and then press and hold a button to actuate the motor. The reason I am going this route is that switches fail. This way you are assured that the little flimsy springs inside your switch arent going to fail and burn the motor. The bottom of the diagram shows power in and Ground, be sure to fuse the power side with the fuse from your original QTP switch. You can then cut the stereo connector off the QTP switch and jump that into the two wires on the left side of the diagrams. Polarity is a non-issue, you cant mess it up.
Sealing the Cutout with Silicone!
Chances are your cutout will eventually leak, if it does not already from the factory. I would recommend doing this should the leak ever become a problem, or actually you mine as well do this before ever installing it.
S.1) Open the cutout, if it is not installed disconnect the negative(black) battery terminal, then install the red wire from the qtp switch to the nut holding the positive(red) terminal on the battery. Then before installing the ground(black) terminal back slide the wire in there. To remove this rig simply remove the ground(black) first then remove the red. If you do not understand basic electricity, do not attempt this. I am not responsible for your actions. Disconnect the cutout assembly before continuing.
S.2) Remove the cutout from the car, if it isnt already.
S.3) Lightly spray some carb-cleaner (or whatever) and clean the surface area where the cutout will seal to. You will notice the butterfly seals up agaings lips in the main hole. Clean that area and the butterfly plate very well.
S.4) Allow about 30 minutes for the metal to dry.
S.5) Apply a thin bead of Red RTV Silicone to the lip area of one side of the cutout. Take care not to get it too close to the shaft that actuates the flap.
S.6) Turn the cutout over and do the same for the other side.
S.7) Now temporarily connect the cutout to power again and close the flap. Try not to hold the button close too long, just long enough to let the flap seat securily into the rtv is good.
S.8) Disconnect the cutout from power again and wipe away some of the excess RTV from the seal.
S.9) Now set the cutout in a clean area that is not too cold to dry for 24 hours.
S.10) Once it has been 24 hours, reconnect the cutout to a power supply and open it, it may take a couple presses to get it to break the seal at first. Check proper operation, and reinstall on the vehicle, (or install it via the steps at the top of this thread).
You are finished sealing the cutout.
TurnDown Woes...
I did not recieve a turndown with the qtp, but it really needs one, In fact I wouldnt drive it without having one installed. Qtp contacted me about this matter and sent me out a turndown, but I already had one built locally. One thing I did notice, is that the QTP turndown will still spit exhaust all over the underside of your car, just not directly at it blowing off the undercoat like no turndown would. Here is a picture of the QTP turndown(shiny) and my local muffler shop one(not shiny).
Notice my custom one angles a bit more downward, this keeps your driveshaft and rear bumper happy and clean. The choice is yours however.
INSTALLED PICS (with locally welded bung for wbo2 sensor)
****Note that is is important to check the tune of your car with this open and closed, Most people tune with it open and then close it and do some logs to be sure it is safe, inform your tuner that you have an exhaust cutout!****
What do I think of the QTP Downpipe?
Go ahead and read my review!!
Okay here is how it's done.
Tools required (how I did it)
FloorJack
2 Jackstands
1 Wheel Chock (or a brick or something)
Some sort of breaker bar or metal pipe about 3/4" in diameter
3/8 drive with sockets 10mm to 17mm
Dremmel Tool with metal cutting wheel (may not be needed)
Zip ties (lots)
2 Small electrical taps (explained below)
Flathead Screwdriver
Jack the car up so you can access the downpipe (instructions for this can be found everywhere). I used the front towhook-area floorjack spot as per the tech manual. Be sure you put some jack stands under it though, and chock the back wheels.
Lets begin..
THE DOWNPIPE!
1. Remove the front crossbar.(2 bolts)
2. Remove 2 bolts towards the drivers side on the rear crossbar.
3. Loosen the remaining bolt on the rear crossbar and swing the bar away.
4. Loosen the 2 spring-bolts holding the DP to the O2 housing. (use breaker-bar!)
5. Set an extra jackstand under the Cat-converter. (I used the small box that the cutout and hardware came in)
6. Remove the 2 bolts hanging the DP on rubber mounts before the cat.
7. Remove the 2 bolts holding the DP to the cat, the cat will fall so re-read step 5. You will need to use the breaker bar (or pipe) for this. There are 2 gaskets that will fall also, keep them.
8. Remove the 2 spring-bolts holding the DP to the O2 housing being careful not to let it fall. It is heavier than it looks, then set the stock DP aside.
!Important!
Now that the Downpipe is out.....
If you look above the cat there is a factory heatshield. This thing is a piece of garbage, and if it isnt rattling now, it will in the future. Mine started rattling right AFTER (doh!) my QTP DP install. It rattles because the larger flanges on aftermarket pipes(and downpipes) hit agains the edge of it and bend it all up causing an even bigger rattle. While the DP is out, I suggest you take a dremmel tool with metal cutting disc and cut the heat shield back so that once the DP is installed the shield will NOT be over the DP's flange. Some people beat it to the frame, others screw it into the frame, but that is what worked best for me.
9. Remove the Donut Gasket from the O2 housing if it did not come out with the DP. Chances are it is stuck in the O2 housing! It is going to be replaced by the QTP one. I used a hammer to get a flathead between the o2 housing lip and the donut gasket. This destroys the factory donut gasket though. It feels like hard metal but it is really soft, and breaks away easily. You might not be able to see where the o2 housing begings and the donut gasket ends because of all the deposits inside the exhaust. Wipe away the lower lip and place the flathead like in the picture at the end of this post.
10. Clean the surface of the o2 housing where the new gasket will be installed.
11. Slide the circular gasker (supplied with DP) over the o2 housing lip.
12. Slide the new Donut Gasket (supplied with DP) Over the o2 housing lip.
13. Place the QTP Downpipe in position against the o2 housing and insert the 2 bolts intended to replace the spring bolts (supplied with DP). Hand tighten those bolts, so the DP can lightly hang but is still supported.
14. Place the 2 factory metal gaskets (the ones from earlier) between the qtp DP and Cat, then use the factory bolts to connect the DP to the CAT. Tighten these fairly tight but not torqued yet.
15. Install 1 of the factory bolts to hold the QTP pipe to the rubber hander that was removed earlier.
16. Tighten the 2 bolts holding the DP to the CAT. Then Tighten the 2 bolts holding the DP to the o2 housing. Those 4 bolts have to be really freaking tight, but DO NOT strip out the o2 housing threads!!!
17. Swing the rear crossbar back into position and bolt in. The front crossbar will probably not fit without spacers, thats up to you..
The tough part is over! (for the most part)
THE ACTUATOR!
18. Place the triangle (3 holes) gasket between the Cutout Hole on the DP and the actuator, use the 3 smaller bolts and nuts (supplied with the DP) to bolt this on pretty tight.
Note: The actuator should face down slightly, if its pointing down flip it over! You want to keep as much clearance as possible.
19. Remove the drivers-side doorsill. It just unclips from the frame.
20. Unsnap the kick-panel in front of the doorsill.
21. Remove the Drivers Footrest (the plastic block) by popping open the little panel in it and removing the nut. Then use a flathead to loosen the circular plastic nut (built in to the footrest) and remove.
22. Pull the carpet back and pop out the rubber grommet.
23. Run the cable from the actuator through the hole in the floorboard. I cut a small hole in the grommet just big enough for the cable and placed it around the cable and plugged the hole with it.
24. Run the cable up the left side and under the steering column (be sure it doesnt interfere with pedals and steering!).
25. Secure the cable under the car to the frame with zip ties, I used some heat resistant loom as well.
26. Re-install all components in the drivers side floorboard in opposite order.
27. Mount the switch somewhere! (I did not because I will be using a custom switch setup)
28. Attach the cable from the actuator to the switch.
29. Use electrical taps toWire the red wire from the switch to a 12 volt remote source. (One that is hot when the ignition is on)
30. Use electrical taps to Wire the black wire from the switch to a good ground.
Now take the car off the Jacks!!
Go Back and Check Stage!
31. Go back and make sure all the bolts and things are tight.
32. Turn the key to ON (do not start).
33. Check to see if the actuator(cutout) opens and closes. Then close it completely.
34. Start the car and check for any exhaust leaks, let it run for a couple minutes then turn off.
35. With the exhaust warm go back and tighten the bolts holding the DP to the O2 house and the DP to the Cat. Dont burn yourself!
36. Start her back up and check the operation of your new DownPipe!!
Done!!
Images
This picture identifies major components and shows you where to start chiseling to remove the donut gasket from the O2 housing.
The Switch
The supplied switch from QTP is ugly to say the least. I have decided to go a 2 switch route, that being one DPDT and one SPDT push-button momentary. The wiring diagram is in the following image..
In this image you see two switch setups. One shows the DPDT open and the other shows it closed. What this does is allow you to select between open/close on the toggle and then press and hold a button to actuate the motor. The reason I am going this route is that switches fail. This way you are assured that the little flimsy springs inside your switch arent going to fail and burn the motor. The bottom of the diagram shows power in and Ground, be sure to fuse the power side with the fuse from your original QTP switch. You can then cut the stereo connector off the QTP switch and jump that into the two wires on the left side of the diagrams. Polarity is a non-issue, you cant mess it up.
Sealing the Cutout with Silicone!
Chances are your cutout will eventually leak, if it does not already from the factory. I would recommend doing this should the leak ever become a problem, or actually you mine as well do this before ever installing it.
S.1) Open the cutout, if it is not installed disconnect the negative(black) battery terminal, then install the red wire from the qtp switch to the nut holding the positive(red) terminal on the battery. Then before installing the ground(black) terminal back slide the wire in there. To remove this rig simply remove the ground(black) first then remove the red. If you do not understand basic electricity, do not attempt this. I am not responsible for your actions. Disconnect the cutout assembly before continuing.
S.2) Remove the cutout from the car, if it isnt already.
S.3) Lightly spray some carb-cleaner (or whatever) and clean the surface area where the cutout will seal to. You will notice the butterfly seals up agaings lips in the main hole. Clean that area and the butterfly plate very well.
S.4) Allow about 30 minutes for the metal to dry.
S.5) Apply a thin bead of Red RTV Silicone to the lip area of one side of the cutout. Take care not to get it too close to the shaft that actuates the flap.
S.6) Turn the cutout over and do the same for the other side.
S.7) Now temporarily connect the cutout to power again and close the flap. Try not to hold the button close too long, just long enough to let the flap seat securily into the rtv is good.
S.8) Disconnect the cutout from power again and wipe away some of the excess RTV from the seal.
S.9) Now set the cutout in a clean area that is not too cold to dry for 24 hours.
S.10) Once it has been 24 hours, reconnect the cutout to a power supply and open it, it may take a couple presses to get it to break the seal at first. Check proper operation, and reinstall on the vehicle, (or install it via the steps at the top of this thread).
You are finished sealing the cutout.
TurnDown Woes...
I did not recieve a turndown with the qtp, but it really needs one, In fact I wouldnt drive it without having one installed. Qtp contacted me about this matter and sent me out a turndown, but I already had one built locally. One thing I did notice, is that the QTP turndown will still spit exhaust all over the underside of your car, just not directly at it blowing off the undercoat like no turndown would. Here is a picture of the QTP turndown(shiny) and my local muffler shop one(not shiny).
Notice my custom one angles a bit more downward, this keeps your driveshaft and rear bumper happy and clean. The choice is yours however.
INSTALLED PICS (with locally welded bung for wbo2 sensor)
****Note that is is important to check the tune of your car with this open and closed, Most people tune with it open and then close it and do some logs to be sure it is safe, inform your tuner that you have an exhaust cutout!****
What do I think of the QTP Downpipe?
Go ahead and read my review!!
Last edited by Jameson_IXMR; Feb 6, 2008 at 12:04 AM.
Jan 19, 2008, 02:59 AM
#5
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I am not sure why you would remove the forward sway bar. I took out the cross bars. A lift, air tool and friend is a big help.
Also, you need to pic a nice spot for the toggle switch. I put mine in the center console on the forward wall of the box. I ran the wire through a rubber grommett under the carpet near the tranny tunnel under your accelerator foot. I think I wire up the switch to the cigarette lighter... I think. I am deployed, so I can't remember.
When I installed mine, I actually busted a bolt from the DP to the 02 housing. Luckily I was able to drill it out and rethread it... boy did that just plain suck!
Also, if you have an aftermarket 02 housing, the lip will not match up with the DP or the donut gasket. I had to do some grinding on the lip to make it match the DP. I also heat wrapped the upper part of the DP since I had it out (mostly to muffle vibrations from the DP).
Good luck on completing the install. It is so nice have stock exhaust and also use a flap to sound so mean.
Also, you need to pic a nice spot for the toggle switch. I put mine in the center console on the forward wall of the box. I ran the wire through a rubber grommett under the carpet near the tranny tunnel under your accelerator foot. I think I wire up the switch to the cigarette lighter... I think. I am deployed, so I can't remember.
When I installed mine, I actually busted a bolt from the DP to the 02 housing. Luckily I was able to drill it out and rethread it... boy did that just plain suck!
Also, if you have an aftermarket 02 housing, the lip will not match up with the DP or the donut gasket. I had to do some grinding on the lip to make it match the DP. I also heat wrapped the upper part of the DP since I had it out (mostly to muffle vibrations from the DP).
Good luck on completing the install. It is so nice have stock exhaust and also use a flap to sound so mean.
Jan 19, 2008, 03:30 AM
#6
Sorry, cross bars is what I meant. Anyway, it is installed!! my o2 housing is a ported stock, so the donut fit great. Now getting the old donut off...well that was a huge pain. I installed a bung on the qtp pipe and right now im looking for a place to route the sensor (and the cutout) wires up into the cabin. Ill go through and correct the first post with everything required. My camera battery died during the install which sucks, I wasnt about to stop and charge it, but Ill explain it the best I can. Tranny tunnel huh? I have no idea what a tranny tunnel is, but Ill check out under the drivers feet for an opening. I was eyeballing that grommet that the stock secondary o2 sensor goes up through... We'll see.
more to come.
edit: I used the back of my floor jack handle to get some leverage from the side of the car on those cat bolts. They arent that bad, just make sure you have a pipe or something about 2 feet long. The donut gasket Ill explain in the full write up.
more to come.
edit: I used the back of my floor jack handle to get some leverage from the side of the car on those cat bolts. They arent that bad, just make sure you have a pipe or something about 2 feet long. The donut gasket Ill explain in the full write up.
Jan 19, 2008, 03:35 AM
#7
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My terminology might not be right, but you know the area that houses the tranny? There is a grommet near where the flap motor sits and it was the most convenient for me to use. If I weren't in another country, I would send you pics to show you what I mean. I'm glad to read you are making progress.
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Jan 19, 2008, 03:48 AM
#8
(taking a break, its 6am now!)
Im going to go check out that "tranny tunnel" now, see how that would look. I appreciate the help, dont worry about the pics, I know how that goes, used to be in the same position way back. Stay safe out there.
Im going to go check out that "tranny tunnel" now, see how that would look. I appreciate the help, dont worry about the pics, I know how that goes, used to be in the same position way back. Stay safe out there.
Jan 19, 2008, 05:45 AM
#10
It should be no different than a straight 3" pipe. I will tune for it though no doubt. I think the only area I will run into a problem is having seperate maps for open/close. Which would lead me into a lean/rich condition, only very slight. Stock this shouldnt be a problem, but tunes to the exact, it may cause some knock. I just wish I had the capabilities to switch maps with the cutout switch. Im looking into standalones but it is too early in my build to tell. ECUflash just cant do that yet. I want to change boost settings, open the cutout, switch maps, and enable secondary injectors while activating water injection, at the push of a button. So far only the map switching is an issue....
Anyway, its early in the morning, I am wrapping it up for the night. Ill finish this in detail tomarrow. I have it installed but I cant start it yet, as I need to move the downpipe to remove/install the o2 sensor for calibration, and Im just too exhausted.
Anyway, its early in the morning, I am wrapping it up for the night. Ill finish this in detail tomarrow. I have it installed but I cant start it yet, as I need to move the downpipe to remove/install the o2 sensor for calibration, and Im just too exhausted.
Jan 19, 2008, 12:48 PM
#12
I suppose thats possible, I plan on piping it off to the side, so sound levels shouldnt be an issue. It is possible their knock is from it tapping the crossbar.
Anyway, Im getting back to work at this.!! Just some wiring and a test drive away!
Anyway, Im getting back to work at this.!! Just some wiring and a test drive away!
Jan 19, 2008, 03:07 PM
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Surely you must be joking, that is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard.
Jan 19, 2008, 06:34 PM
#14
I think he meant from it causing a lean condition for a long period of time I am sure.
Update.. I havent written the install in detail because Im still at it. I got the pipe bolted in and wired, took it for a test drive and 1 minute later I hear a
huge rattle. I thought the DP dropped and was dragging. I looked at it, looked okay, I thought it was hitting the cross bar, so I took it home and removed the cross bar, still rattles. I have troubleshot it down to the heat shield thing on top of the cat converter. Im not sure how it bolts on there, so Im going to check out the forums and see, before I go in there and disconnect the pipe again.
Anyone know how the heat shield (on top of stock cat) attaches to the exhaust?
Thanks.
Update.. I havent written the install in detail because Im still at it. I got the pipe bolted in and wired, took it for a test drive and 1 minute later I hear a
huge rattle. I thought the DP dropped and was dragging. I looked at it, looked okay, I thought it was hitting the cross bar, so I took it home and removed the cross bar, still rattles. I have troubleshot it down to the heat shield thing on top of the cat converter. Im not sure how it bolts on there, so Im going to check out the forums and see, before I go in there and disconnect the pipe again.
Anyone know how the heat shield (on top of stock cat) attaches to the exhaust?
Thanks.
