HOW TO: Fender Cutting
Feb 21, 2009, 08:09 PM
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HOW TO: Fender Cutting
Over the years I've gotten lots of PM's about fender cutting as I think it is easier and better than rolling. I did my rears a while back. I got new wheels and just did the fronts - so here's the play-by-play.
1. Figure out which areas of the fender lip needs to come off by test fitting your wide, wicked offset baller status wheels. I place a block of wood under the selected wheel so the tire will tuck into the fender.
2. Mark the fender lip. I mark right up to the end of the radius of the fender lip. You can remove even more material (the radius itself), leaving a knife edge fender, but that is harder, and has a much greater chance of leaving an uneven edge that is actually visible.
3. Tape off the edge. If you use white masking tape you can see through to your line. If you use blue, you probably want to tape first, than mark your line.
4. Use a rotary cutoff for the business. An air powered unit makes it a breeze. A Dremmel tool will do it, but it takes much longer especially on the steel double thick rear fenders.
5. Clean the edges with a file, and sand paper if you care to. The rears should be hit with a little brushed on touchup paint to seal them since they are steel. The fronts don't matter as they are aluminum.
1. Figure out which areas of the fender lip needs to come off by test fitting your wide, wicked offset baller status wheels. I place a block of wood under the selected wheel so the tire will tuck into the fender.
2. Mark the fender lip. I mark right up to the end of the radius of the fender lip. You can remove even more material (the radius itself), leaving a knife edge fender, but that is harder, and has a much greater chance of leaving an uneven edge that is actually visible.
3. Tape off the edge. If you use white masking tape you can see through to your line. If you use blue, you probably want to tape first, than mark your line.
4. Use a rotary cutoff for the business. An air powered unit makes it a breeze. A Dremmel tool will do it, but it takes much longer especially on the steel double thick rear fenders.
5. Clean the edges with a file, and sand paper if you care to. The rears should be hit with a little brushed on touchup paint to seal them since they are steel. The fronts don't matter as they are aluminum.
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