outstanding writeup!!!!

 

^^ anyone out there with before and after results?

 

I just had a shop install my balljoints for me and they said that they cant get the snap ring on either. Any tricks I can tell them?

Thanks,
Josh

 

I really don't see how a shop wouldn't be able to get the snap rings. Anyone in their garage with the right pliers can do it in a minute or two. I was concerned about them after reading a bunch on EvoM but they were ridiculously easy for me.

 

Nice, Dramatic change in the way the car handles with these few parts. Nice work.

 

Do you know what size receiver tube you used for pressing out/in the ball joints? Harbor Freight has a 3pc kit for only $50 but only has 3 receiver tubes.

Also can you explain where you used the tie rod puller, I'm not seeing how its used. (dur nvm just figured out how it works)

I'm starting this tomorrow so any help would be appreciated.

 

their 3pc kit wont work ive tried but I think they have an 80-100 dollar kit that has all youll need.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll just pick up that kit and most likely return like other people did.

 

I have a 2006 EVO MR and my drivers's side lower control arm ball joint just went out. So far this Whiltline kit is the only thing I have found that will fix my problem. Mitsubishi will only sell the whole control arm with the ball joint in it. This is almost $400, but I only need the one ball joint. Its a bunch of BS! I know Whiteline makes a great kit but I am broke right now and would love to be able to buy just one, maybe two lower control arm ball joints. Anyone know of ways to cheat the system? Like using an eclipse/lancer/etc, ball joint? Or finding a way to buy just the Whiteline ball joints without being forced to but the whole kit? Any info would be much appreciated.

Thank You

 

^ it wouldn't be good to install just one side as the whiteline parts change the suspension geometry.

Anyone know what type of grease is used by whiteline in the ball joints? I ask because the tutorial mentions reusing the oem grease. If the whiteline grease is synthetic, then it might be contaminated by the oem grease.

 

My bad, I didn't meant just one ball joint. I want both but I do not need the whole Whithline kit. I couldn't find any way to just buy the ball joints, it forces me to get the whole kit, which is great but I don't have the money for it. I wish Mitsu would just sell me a @*&^%*# ball joint!

 

it comes as a kit for a reason the ball joint shank is longer to change the arc of the lower control arm to prevent roll. the tie rod ends have a longer shank as well to help prevent bump steer because of the change in geometry of the lca. dont be cheap youll regret it in the long run.

 

I am going to get the whole kit because my only other option is getting the whole control arm from Mitsu for $400. I am cheap because I am trying to pay for college. If Mitsu sold the ball joints, they would prob be cheap and that would be great. Middle finger to Mitsubishi for being lazy and not letting me get a ball joint without also buying the god damn control arm.

 

I know this thread is a little on the old side, bt I figured I would chime in. To anyone who wants to know before and after, It is amazing. Put a set of TEIN Flex's in the car and it rode like crap until the front was done to correct the geometry. Absolute must if you are going lower. Now for some long term review, I have had them in the car for a while, but the passenger side ball joint has failed. Fortunately White Line is a great company and sent me replacement parts.

Now my question to anyone who has performed the install...How hard was it to get the old ball joints out? I am have a real tough time using a c-clamp setup...Did any of you have to use heat? I am skeptical about applying heat since they are aluminum. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks

 

Thanks for Chiming in. I was hoping to see if someone has before and after experience. I'm going to get these as a early christmas present for myself