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Install a Whiteline KCA395 roll center correction kit on an Evo without a shop press

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Old Nov 25, 2010, 01:13 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Jersey Dino
Now my question to anyone who has performed the install...How hard was it to get the old ball joints out? I am have a real tough time using a c-clamp setup...Did any of you have to use heat? I am skeptical about applying heat since they are aluminum. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks
I didn't use any heat because with the kit I rented from Advance Auto, once I figured out which pieces to use and got them all lined up properly, the OEM ball joints came out very easily.

I think applying pressure properly would be more effective than applying heat to try to get the surrounding control arm to expand, but that's just me guessing.
Old Dec 8, 2010, 10:55 PM
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Great detailed write up. Thanks!
Old Apr 8, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Would it be cost effective and practicle to just buy the oem ball joints rather than going throught the hassle of trying to remove them if I am DIY?
Old Apr 8, 2011, 08:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by supergouki
Would it be cost effective and practicle to just buy the oem ball joints rather than going throught the hassle of trying to remove them if I am DIY?
Not sure I understand your question... the whole point of the Whiteline roll correction kit is to REPLACE the OEM ball joints in order to improve the angle of the LCA for better grip when the car is lowered. As newevil posted/explained on page 2 of this thread:

Originally Posted by newevil
it comes as a kit for a reason the ball joint shank is longer to change the arc of the lower control arm to prevent roll. the tie rod ends have a longer shank as well to help prevent bump steer because of the change in geometry of the lca.
I took this picture to show the subtle but distinct difference between the Whiteline replacement part and the OEM ball joint:

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Old Apr 8, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by EGbeater
Not sure I understand your question... the whole point of the Whiteline roll correction kit is to REPLACE the OEM ball joints in order to improve the angle of the LCA for better grip when the car is lowered. As newevil posted/explained on page 2 of this thread:



I took this picture to show the subtle but distinct difference between the Whiteline replacement part and the OEM ball joint:

Oh I guess I misread your instructions. I thought the oem ball joints were being used in the whiteline kit. I couldn't really tell what is going on as my pics are being blocked at work but I will check when I get home.
Old Apr 8, 2011, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by supergouki
Oh I guess I misread your instructions. I thought the oem ball joints were being used in the whiteline kit. I couldn't really tell what is going on as my pics are being blocked at work but I will check when I get home.
No. Whiteline provides replacement ball joints and tie rod ends in the kit. I installed mine last week. Very happy with it.
Old Apr 17, 2011, 12:05 AM
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how long did it take to do the install?
Old Apr 19, 2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by djslik408
how long did it take to do the install?
All day. It takes awhile to remove the old ball joint and install the new one with the C Clamp kit, especially when you have to stop every hour or so and run to the parts store to buy tools/parts. Now that I've done it, next time would take no more than 3-4 hours though. If you're planning to do it yourself, be prepared to perform an oil change. The inner front bolt to the LCA on the passenger side can not be removed without removing the oil filter.
Old Apr 20, 2011, 09:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by GG06MR
If you're planning to do it yourself, be prepared to perform an oil change. The inner front bolt to the LCA on the passenger side can not be removed without removing the oil filter.
Depends on the type of the oil filter you're using. I did not have to remove the oil filter to pull the passenger side lower LCA bolt. I believe I was using an OEM Mitsubishi oil filter at the time of my Whiteline roll correction kit install, but I honestly don't remember.
Old Apr 20, 2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by EGbeater
Depends on the type of the oil filter you're using. I did not have to remove the oil filter to pull the passenger side lower LCA bolt. I believe I was using an OEM Mitsubishi oil filter at the time of my Whiteline roll correction kit install, but I honestly don't remember.
Interesting. I guess I never noticed/realized that the WIX filter was that much wider in dimension compared to the stock filter.
Old Oct 6, 2011, 10:03 PM
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OP: First, thank you very much for taking the time and posting this. These DIY write-ups are invaluable and greatly add value to the community.

Can you list the sizes of the adapter pieces that you used from the Ball Joint Service Kit? I want to make sure I rent the right kit, they have their kits broken down to the c-clamp, a few pieces and then a bunch of other pieces for different makes (Honda, Ford, etc) but nothing specific to Mitsubishi.

Just to add to this (I'm researching doing this in my evo here soon) you can rent all the tools you need from O'Reilly Auto Parts for free (you get your deposit back) as long as you return them within two days.

So it's the same concept only without any guilt.
Old Oct 6, 2011, 10:45 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by golgo13
OP: First, thank you very much for taking the time and posting this. These DIY write-ups are invaluable and greatly add value to the community.
You're welcome. I wouldn't bother to document stuff like this otherwise!

Originally Posted by golgo13
Can you list the sizes of the adapter pieces that you used from the Ball Joint Service Kit?
Sorry, I did this a very long time ago. I wouldn't have been able to list the sizes of the adapters 24 hours after the job anyway.

Originally Posted by golgo13
I want to make sure I rent the right kit, they have their kits broken down to the c-clamp, a few pieces and then a bunch of other pieces for different makes (Honda, Ford, etc) but nothing specific to Mitsubishi.
I got the complete kit from my local Advance Auto Parts store. Can't help you beyond that, and what I've already posted:

Originally Posted by EGbeater
Here's the exact kit I used:



It's a Powerbuilt 648617, also know as an Alltrade 648617:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2083____

I still had to add my own Harbor Freight 21mm impact socket to the mix to get it done though, as you’ll see later.

Last edited by EGbeater; Oct 6, 2011 at 10:47 PM.
Old Oct 6, 2011, 11:11 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by EGbeater
You're welcome. I wouldn't bother to document stuff like this otherwise!


Originally Posted by EGbeater
Sorry, I did this a very long time ago. I wouldn't have been able to list the sizes of the adapters 24 hours after the job anyway.
No worries, since it costs next to nothing to rent the tools, I'll just get them all anyway. It will save me a trip to the auto parts store once I've got the evo in the air.



Did it take much work getting the LCAs off? Did you need to use a pickle fork? I'm trying to find a write-up on front LCA removal. I don't know what else that entails.
Old Oct 11, 2011, 12:01 PM
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Got a copy of the factory service manual, so now I have a better idea as to what's going in there before I even start worrying about pressing out the ball joints.

Did you have to dremel off some of the aluminum on the LCA?
Old Oct 11, 2011, 02:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by golgo13
Did you have to dremel off some of the aluminum on the LCA?
Not at the time to accommodate the Whiteline roll center kit, no. But I have now, because I've since installed a Rotora 6-piston caliper, 355mm rotor big brake kit, and the clearance to the rotor is not the same.

I also cut a trapezoid-shaped "notch" in my custom aluminum heat shield for the ball joint, which I documented the DIY for here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html

Modified heat shield and end of aluminum LCA filed down for more clearance:

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About 2.5mm of clearance to the rotor:

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The mounting adapter bracket, before the rotor and caliper get slapped on:



Voila:

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