Install a Whiteline KCA395 roll center correction kit on an Evo without a shop press
#93
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
I put a jack stand under the ball joint and use the weight of the vehicle to tighten it into the knuckle. I know it's a tie rod end, but you should be able to rig something similar up. An impact gun tends to help over a wrench, if it's available or possible for you to do so.
#95
Former Sponsor
Believe they had a production change towards the end of last year. Believe that was one of the things they weren't including anymore. Try tapping it in with a soft dead blow hammer to get the tie-rod to "seat" then try to blip it on with the impact, don't hold it down just tap the trigger.
#97
Former Sponsor
I can't believe that there would be any remaining stock left over to be 2011. I had Whiteline just pull some off the shelf and they all didn't have the hex key at the head of the stud.
#101
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
Just thought I would add my two cents. I spent this past weekend installing this kit on my 03 evo8 with like $125k miles. I also picked up a master bushing kit from Energy Suspension thinking I would do the LCA bushings at the same time. Well, my car had other plans. It was impossible for me to undo the front LCA bolt on either arm. I used impact guns, huge pry bars, sprays, magic fairy dust, prayers, and a rain dance. Neither side budged. So I decided to just install the whiteline kit.
For the install I used the "ball joint master service kit" from Advanced Auto. I had to add to the mix a deep 15/16th socket to get the old ball joint out. Install was a pain in the butt, and used a lot of hammering to get things in or out of place. Luckily it all went together and bolted back up.
As for driving, I haven't gotten much seat time with the new setup, but it FEELS so much firmer steering than before. I still need an alignment and such, but definitely can feel an improvement.
For the install I used the "ball joint master service kit" from Advanced Auto. I had to add to the mix a deep 15/16th socket to get the old ball joint out. Install was a pain in the butt, and used a lot of hammering to get things in or out of place. Luckily it all went together and bolted back up.
As for driving, I haven't gotten much seat time with the new setup, but it FEELS so much firmer steering than before. I still need an alignment and such, but definitely can feel an improvement.
#102
Hi
I post my question up here just to not create another topic. I have this modification in my suspension (evo 8):
- ISC Track coilover
- all ralliart bushings (except front control arm whiteline W0593)
- front and rear whiteline 26mm sway bars with links
- front and rear strut bars
- japspeed tie rods and rod ends
- passive differentials
- rays CE28N 18"
Evo is pretty low to the ground and I just thinking how much I need whiteline centre correction kit with this setup? How big difference can this make?
Thanks for any feedback.
I post my question up here just to not create another topic. I have this modification in my suspension (evo 8):
- ISC Track coilover
- all ralliart bushings (except front control arm whiteline W0593)
- front and rear whiteline 26mm sway bars with links
- front and rear strut bars
- japspeed tie rods and rod ends
- passive differentials
- rays CE28N 18"
Evo is pretty low to the ground and I just thinking how much I need whiteline centre correction kit with this setup? How big difference can this make?
Thanks for any feedback.
#103
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Sorry for the 5 year bump, but I thought this might help some folks. My passenger side front LCA bolt would not come out and started rounding. I did not want to risk snapping the retaining nut so against all advice, I attempted to remove the ball joint with the LCA still on the car. I used the basic Astro ball joint kit on Amazon and with a weak battery impact ~300 ft/lbs, was able to press out the old ball joint and new one back in, in under five minutes each. Due to tight fit, short sockets will help, as you see I had to break the old ball joint out in two steps. I actually spent more time trying to get the c clip back in, and even though I tried tapping it in further with a hammer, it seems like it is not in far enough (someone chime in).
For ***** and giggles, I tried using the c clamp to press out the bushing on the rear toe arm both on the ground and in a table vise; it was a no go and kept flopping around. No doubt if you can get the control arms off, a shop press is the best way to go. Otherwise, if you are using the c clamp press, having the LCA on the car was easier since it is held in place by mounting hardware. I had no problems getting the adapters to line up.
For ***** and giggles, I tried using the c clamp to press out the bushing on the rear toe arm both on the ground and in a table vise; it was a no go and kept flopping around. No doubt if you can get the control arms off, a shop press is the best way to go. Otherwise, if you are using the c clamp press, having the LCA on the car was easier since it is held in place by mounting hardware. I had no problems getting the adapters to line up.
The following 2 users liked this post by driven168:
bboypuertoroc (May 15, 2020),
osetsky (May 21, 2020)
#104
Snap ring concern
So ball joints are pressed in all the way however the snap rings that come with the whiteline KCA395 are obviously little thicker than OEM rings... I tried installing oem snap rings on the whiteline ball joints and they snapped right in and snug... do you think I can use OEM snap rings on whiteline ball joints so it can avoid me from shaving off some of my control arm end? Thanks
#105
EvoM Community Team Leader
You should use the Whiteline snap rings. If the ball joints are fully seated they should work. I don't know what was on there before, but there are no OEM snap rings. The OEM ball joints are non-serviceable and normally would require replacing the entire control arm if in need of replacement.