Can you use a C-clamp to get it snug in the knuckle to start it? If not you can probably run a regular nut down to get it tight into the knuckle, remove it, then install the nylox.

 

Someone has suggested using a jack under the tie rod end to lift the knuckle. That will put tension on the bolt, preventing it from spinning.

I tried using an impact to blip the nut onto it, but it just spins.

 

I put a jack stand under the ball joint and use the weight of the vehicle to tighten it into the knuckle. I know it's a tie rod end, but you should be able to rig something similar up. An impact gun tends to help over a wrench, if it's available or possible for you to do so.

 

Try tapping it upward with a hammer. Don't full on smack it though. The shaft should fit snug right in the knuckle and you'll be able to tighten the nut down.

 

Believe they had a production change towards the end of last year. Believe that was one of the things they weren't including anymore. Try tapping it in with a soft dead blow hammer to get the tie-rod to "seat" then try to blip it on with the impact, don't hold it down just tap the trigger.

 

Interesting, this kit is from 2011 though.
I'll have to try a couple things it sounds like.

 

I can't believe that there would be any remaining stock left over to be 2011. I had Whiteline just pull some off the shelf and they all didn't have the hex key at the head of the stud.

 

Yessir. Purchased it from you 10/5/2011.

 

Just checked mine and they don't have the allen heads either. Interested to see how you get them in. If you haven't gotten them in by the time I do I'll post how I did it.

 

Thanks for the updates people, looks like they were changed at some point.

I'll go ahead and try what's been suggested in this thread.

 

Just thought I would add my two cents. I spent this past weekend installing this kit on my 03 evo8 with like $125k miles. I also picked up a master bushing kit from Energy Suspension thinking I would do the LCA bushings at the same time. Well, my car had other plans. It was impossible for me to undo the front LCA bolt on either arm. I used impact guns, huge pry bars, sprays, magic fairy dust, prayers, and a rain dance. Neither side budged. So I decided to just install the whiteline kit.

For the install I used the "ball joint master service kit" from Advanced Auto. I had to add to the mix a deep 15/16th socket to get the old ball joint out. Install was a pain in the butt, and used a lot of hammering to get things in or out of place. Luckily it all went together and bolted back up.

As for driving, I haven't gotten much seat time with the new setup, but it FEELS so much firmer steering than before. I still need an alignment and such, but definitely can feel an improvement.

 

Hi

I post my question up here just to not create another topic. I have this modification in my suspension (evo 8):

- ISC Track coilover
- all ralliart bushings (except front control arm whiteline W0593)
- front and rear whiteline 26mm sway bars with links
- front and rear strut bars
- japspeed tie rods and rod ends
- passive differentials
- rays CE28N 18"

Evo is pretty low to the ground and I just thinking how much I need whiteline centre correction kit with this setup? How big difference can this make?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

Sorry for the 5 year bump, but I thought this might help some folks. My passenger side front LCA bolt would not come out and started rounding. I did not want to risk snapping the retaining nut so against all advice, I attempted to remove the ball joint with the LCA still on the car. I used the basic Astro ball joint kit on Amazon and with a weak battery impact ~300 ft/lbs, was able to press out the old ball joint and new one back in, in under five minutes each. Due to tight fit, short sockets will help, as you see I had to break the old ball joint out in two steps. I actually spent more time trying to get the c clip back in, and even though I tried tapping it in further with a hammer, it seems like it is not in far enough (someone chime in).

For ***** and giggles, I tried using the c clamp to press out the bushing on the rear toe arm both on the ground and in a table vise; it was a no go and kept flopping around. No doubt if you can get the control arms off, a shop press is the best way to go. Otherwise, if you are using the c clamp press, having the LCA on the car was easier since it is held in place by mounting hardware. I had no problems getting the adapters to line up.

 

So ball joints are pressed in all the way however the snap rings that come with the whiteline KCA395 are obviously little thicker than OEM rings... I tried installing oem snap rings on the whiteline ball joints and they snapped right in and snug... do you think I can use OEM snap rings on whiteline ball joints so it can avoid me from shaving off some of my control arm end? Thanks

 

You should use the Whiteline snap rings. If the ball joints are fully seated they should work. I don't know what was on there before, but there are no OEM snap rings. The OEM ball joints are non-serviceable and normally would require replacing the entire control arm if in need of replacement.