Very nice! I'll have to look into that, especially since I'm going to be in there anyway going to RCK.

 

How did you get the passenger LCA bolt out past the oil filter?

I guess I'm also doing an oil change today lol

EDIT: So for posterity sake, you DO NOT NEED to drain all the oil to do this job unless you were planning to do an oil change anyway.

Once you're ready to remove the forward LCA bolt and the motor has been sitting (to let the oil collect in the sump)for a few minutes, pull the filter (have a catch ready for the oil).
Some oil (~300ml) will be lost, but you can re-use the filter and top off the lost oil before you start the car up.

 

You don't get it out past. I had to perform an unplanned oil change when I installed my RCK too.

 

Nice.

Also, my ****ing RCK ball joints aren't lining up right. I keep having to knock them out and start again.

Going to find a shop press, this is bull ****.

 

Yeah, you have to be really careful and cautious about lining them up just right so they press in there nice and straight.

 

I got it done.

What a real PITA.



The passenger side LCA was the worst, from start to finish. I ended up having to use a pickle fork on the whiteline ball joint because it spun when setting it back into the knuckle, which was keeping the bolts from passing through the opening. That ****ed the boot, so now it's all mangled. Oh well, there's an *** ton of grease in there to keep the dust out.

 

So when trying to get the passenger side LCA back in, I had to do a lot of wiggling to the knuckle, front strut and the caliper assembly.

During this, I realized I had been pulling the front passenger driveshaft way in and out. I noticed that the boot was squished down a bit and some of the lubricated shaft was now exposed. I freaked out thinking I might have pulled the shaft out of the ACD since it had come way out.

Here is a pic pointing at the driveshaft I'm talking about (not my car)



Is that possible or am I just paranoid? I was running out of time, so I haven't taken the car for a spin yet, but while reparking it in the garage there weren't any strange noises when backing up and pulling in 1st gear.

I've got the FSM, so I can go down that route if necessary...

EDIT: Looking at GROUP 26 in the FSM reveals that it has quite a bit of allowed shaft play.

 

I'm sure you just pulled the shaft in and out of the innner joint. If you had pulled it out of the transmission, then fluid would have come out. Plus, there's a retaining clip to keep the axle in place inside the transmission, so you would have had a tough time getting it to pop out. You would have more than likely ripped the shaft completely out of the inner joint, along with tearing or removing the boot, long before removing the inner joint from the transmission.

 

Right on, thanks for the confirmation.

 

i have these installed as well as many other whiteline products over all the performance speeks for itself

 

im looking into this as well

 

Hey much thanks to the OP for posting this. I just did this on my Evo X this past weekend. Couple of notes for me.

None of the local autoparts store had the nice big ball joint press kit like the OP had. I went to the O'Reilly/Kragen on got theirs, which had a lot less parts. I ended up having to also get their AWD ball joint adaptor kit and Ford ball joint adaptor kit to get all the pieces I needed to press in and out the ball joints (I forget from which kit I got what.)

Also the C Clamp in that kit wasn't big enough to do what the OP did and push the old ball joint out properly (the 25mm deep socket, control arm, and cup would not fit). Instead I had to push down on the rod which (unexpectedly) broke the old ball joint and popped the rod and ball joint out of the housing. That's fine since I'm replacing it anyways. Once the rod and ball joint are popped out I could use a flat adapter to get the housing out of the control arm.

Pressing in the new Whiteline ball joint was a lot easier.

For both steps I used an electric Milwaukee impact gun (not air) to drive the c clamp screw. Worked well and required a lot less muscle than using the breaker bar method. You just have to be careful at the end to not over press the new ball joint in. I would stop often to check how far the ball joint was in and stopped as soon as I could fit the snap ring in.

Speaking of snap rings, the old one is easily removed if you use snap ring pliers to stretch it open, twist the snap ring pliers a wee bit so you can fit a flat head screwdriver underneath one end and then lift that end up above the top of the ball joint. It will come off easily at that point.

Install of the new snap rings is similar to removal but reversed.

And definitely use a Pitman Tie Rod tool to remove the tie rod ends, I tried a fork at first, but the Pittman tool worked far better.

 

This Whiteline kit serve and help to reduce the understeer with the OEM struts of the EVO 9MR or work only with a lowered coilovers to improve the geometry suspension? Thanks in advance for the answer..

 

Thank you deludedbuzz for providing your information regarding the installation on Evo X applications! Yeah, me and snap rings don't get along well, but it's likely not having the right tool/experience for the job.

The Whiteline roll center correction kit will help improve handling and reduce understeer on any Evo 8/9/X where the ride height of the car has been substantially lowered (i.e., more than 3/4"), which negatively affects the roll center of the car, and the car's ability to resist body roll... regardless of whether you're using aftermarket coilover suspension, or lowering springs with the OEM struts.

 

bout to install this now on my evo 8....
will let you no how we go :-)