i honestly couldnt tell you the exact thread pitch. or exactly how long. just take ur tob to the store and make sure the bolt are about a half inch longer.

 

make sure you use lock-tite.

 

Could you elaborate on the throttle stop a bit more? I've never heard of it and not sure of its purpose.

 

throttle stop?.... clutch pedal?

 

Yeah i believe he means the clutch pedal stop. You get your car back yet? I wanna see how you did yours.

 

nope keep gettin dicked around. trust me if i had my car back this pic would of been up a long time ago. i should have gotten it back 2 weeks ago.

 

That sucks dude.

 

so if im running a Exedy twin disk with about 4300 miles on it, and ive just been recently locked outta 4th gear, its likely that i just need to adjust my pedal stop and it should fix the problem? The transmission is a fully built tranny with the same amount of miles on it which is why i think it might be the clutch so this info would be GREATLY appreciated

 

try it see what happens. i would start there.

 

I can't imagine that the stock TOB is harder to deal with than the hydraulic. After installing 20-some clutches on VIII, IX, & X I would much rather release that TOB than dink around with disconnecting and having to re-bleed the clutch line. This is, however, assuming that the setup is more-or-less like my previous Tilton twin-disc.

The Tilton also required a clutch pedal stop. It prevent the pedal from moving too far down and pushing too far/too hard on the slave cylinder, which could damage the slave cylinder. It is not 100% necessary. On the Tiltons I installed I was able to adjust the pedal low enough so that the factory pedal stop still worked, but the Tilton also required removing the helper spring in the clutch pedal. Also: no modification to the clutch switch.

 

With your Exedy twin disc, you shouldn't have the same pedal stop they are discussing here. For your problem, I would try adjusting the clutch pedal. What may be happening is that the pedal bottoms out on the stop before it can fully release the clutch.

Another possibility (especially if your clutch line was ever disconnected) is that there could be some air in the clutch line, so you don't get the full pressure on the clutch when you press the pedal to release it. This has the same result: the clutch doesn't fully release.

 

I think the reason alot of people that go with a twin like the hydraulic tob is because you don't need to use a clutch fork stop and don't have to worry about clip on the clutch popping off after every pass.

 

I can see that... I have had problems with the clip on a few Exedy clutches. Otherwise, no problems at all.
As far as releasing it to get the trans out - the right sized screwdriver makes all the difference and the stock clips has always been the biggest PITA to remove.

 

how would a stock tob be easier than 5 minutes of vacuum bleeding a hydraulic one. it falls right apart and no need to release that bull**** clip that does in fact get stuck sometimes where ur workin on it for hours. if ur main problem is worring about bleedin a hyraulic tob and time wise an extra 5 minutes bleeding is the last of my worries. the time realeasing my stuck tob. toook me as long to bleed and make a pedal stop and test drive my car done with a hydraulic one.

 

Because the clip will pop in about 15 seconds once you're used to it and use the right screwdriver.

On top of that, some on the hydraulic TOB's don't have an extra disconnect in the line, which means you now get to disconnect the line at the master cylinder, which is a royal PITA. In other words, make sure you have a disconnect somewhere in the line before installing the first time.

I will agree with you, though, that bleeding the hydraulic bearings is easier than bleeding the stock slave cylinder.