HOW TO NEEDED: Twin disc and hydraulic throw out bearing
Clutch is in n car feels alot better, this clutch wants more power
, its noisy and aggressive but i love the grip...I now have to move the car about 1500 rpm to not get any chatter, down shift is fun but under 1200-1000 rpm down shifting will strain the rear diff and you will get a diff hop. When first moving off you will hear the clutch engaging and also the TOB sounds like the shaft is spinning between it.
The hardest part is setting the pedal stop NOTE bleed the system, back off the pedal travel (put the pedal away from the firewall) install the pedal stop adjust and den re-bleed the system again than adjust the pedal to where u feel it engage,then adjust the pedal stop about 1/4 to 1/2 from that spot and you are ready once you have all gears selecting without and notching its good to go.

, its noisy and aggressive but i love the grip...I now have to move the car about 1500 rpm to not get any chatter, down shift is fun but under 1200-1000 rpm down shifting will strain the rear diff and you will get a diff hop. When first moving off you will hear the clutch engaging and also the TOB sounds like the shaft is spinning between it.The hardest part is setting the pedal stop NOTE bleed the system, back off the pedal travel (put the pedal away from the firewall) install the pedal stop adjust and den re-bleed the system again than adjust the pedal to where u feel it engage,then adjust the pedal stop about 1/4 to 1/2 from that spot and you are ready once you have all gears selecting without and notching its good to go.
Does anyone have the measurement sheet that comes with the hydraulic bearing, the spec sheet where it tells you to measure and it has the blanks to put your measurements in and do the math to see what the height of your throw out bearing is and to determine if you need spacers or perhaps machine the release bearing? shoot me a PM or post on here if you have that sheet..
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Sorry for bring such an old thread back, but my question is relevant to this thread so I figured it was better than making a new one.
Anyways, question 1: Am I deleting the sleeve that goes around the input shaft (the thing those 4 bolts were originally holding), or does it stay on the car?
Question 2: Does anyone know what the fitting that goes between the throwout bearing line & the master cylinder line is? I bought the TOB used and it didn't come with the fitting, so does anyone know if it is -2 to -3 or is it -3 to -3? I'm also assuming that the side with the male fitting is the bleeder line? Or am I completely backwards?
Again, sorry about bringing up such an old thread, but I can't find any information about these things specifically haha
Anyways, question 1: Am I deleting the sleeve that goes around the input shaft (the thing those 4 bolts were originally holding), or does it stay on the car?
Question 2: Does anyone know what the fitting that goes between the throwout bearing line & the master cylinder line is? I bought the TOB used and it didn't come with the fitting, so does anyone know if it is -2 to -3 or is it -3 to -3? I'm also assuming that the side with the male fitting is the bleeder line? Or am I completely backwards?
Again, sorry about bringing up such an old thread, but I can't find any information about these things specifically haha
The only pictures I found but this should be enough to give you guys idea how to install it straight forward. Remove everything until you see a neaked input shaft like in this picture below.

Then you just simply install your hrb. Don't need measurements if your clutch kit is new. I ran it like that with no issues at all. Make sure your bolts are long enough and use thread loctite (blue) which is medium strength. Remember you gotta remove these bolts one day later down the road refresh or swap clutches etc.. That's why red loctite isn't recommend.
You could have the hrb facing which ever direction for the lines as longest you don't use the bottom hole for the transmission. Make sure the hole your going to be using for the lines to exit, nothing is in the way. ***Don't over torque the bolts***
Should look like this when done. Sorry for the burry pics
Hopefully you guys get the idea who never seen one installed. Good luck

Then you just simply install your hrb. Don't need measurements if your clutch kit is new. I ran it like that with no issues at all. Make sure your bolts are long enough and use thread loctite (blue) which is medium strength. Remember you gotta remove these bolts one day later down the road refresh or swap clutches etc.. That's why red loctite isn't recommend.
You could have the hrb facing which ever direction for the lines as longest you don't use the bottom hole for the transmission. Make sure the hole your going to be using for the lines to exit, nothing is in the way. ***Don't over torque the bolts***
Should look like this when done. Sorry for the burry pics
Hopefully you guys get the idea who never seen one installed. Good luck
So to answer my questions:
The bracket that goes on the original tob doesn't go with the quartermaster hydraulic one. I forget why now, but it doesn't.
The quartermaster clutch line is -3, and the Evo clutch line is M10x1.00
The bracket that goes on the original tob doesn't go with the quartermaster hydraulic one. I forget why now, but it doesn't.
The quartermaster clutch line is -3, and the Evo clutch line is M10x1.00
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