hey looks great man! n the engine to chasis ground screw u are talking about, if u didnt use that point to re-ground it dont worry just leave the screw in there for now who knows it may become usefull to you at a later time

Again really good work n nice pics of it to!!!

 

Thanks and btw its not a screw its a actual post like that cant be removed unless you were to dremel it out.. maybe it was put there for the evo models or something that the just left in production? what ever the case it was perfect for engine to chassis ground and i just happened to have a wing nut that i had bought for the amplifier ground and it fit so win/win lol any ideas for a intake i dont want to blow 200$ on a intake when i can get a stock K&N for like 60$ but i wanted a whole intake setup if possible.. they have one on ebay for like 35$ but i dont know if its great although its gotta be better then stock..

 

I noticed a few people have done the ground to throttle body and transmission.. Do you think they will be beneficial at all? im kinda iffy about even messing with the tranny in anyway because a alternator its costly but a tranny is worth the price of some peoples cars lol i just have like 10ft of 4g wire left so i figured what the heck if theres something else to do why not

 

Ive not heard of ppl doing that for sound systems i do kno that u can buy the grounds for those from performance shops i.e HKS etc, upgrading just the grounds how ever will not hurt anything, just make sure you d/c battery b4 doing it and research abit on the part you are upgrading.

 

if ur going to do an intake system it all comes down to the room you have and what you are after. in my lancer b4 the evo i had k&n drop in filter, it made a bit a difference to the car, later i upgraded to there full faced pod, and again it was an improvement. i kno theres not much out there in the way of "high" performance parts for lancers ( well atleast not here in Aus ). best thing i could suggest is a custom made one, either remake the factory box making it bigger on intake and to the throttle body or some custom 2"-2.5" inch piping and a pod filter. At the end of it you will see a change, just remeber you need to keep your O2 sensor from you factory setup ( unless you have an aftermarket ECU).

 

What does your alt put out? I know the 2010 has a stock 120A alt...So i wouldn't bother putting in an 80A fuse just so i can blow it and put a new one in personally. And if you follow his method, and completely remove the alt to batt wire, then ALL the current has no choice but to flow through that wire, which is why you never remove the factory wire. If the factory wire is still there, electricity will take the path of least resistance, but if its not, and that fuse is blown...your battery won't be getting charged by your alt and you're SOL....

 

it puts out 90a.. 80a fuse has worked for 3 days now and you ALWAYS leave factory wiring its to add not replace

 

which is why i disagreed with the way joker attached his alt to his battery.

 

I saw here someone said the "2010 has a stock 120A alt"

Does anyone know what the 2009 GTS stock alternator is rated at?

Ive tried searching and came up with nothing. If no one knows, can someone lead me in the right direction to find the answer.

 

very good write up my good sir...will be doing this shortly as i need to upgrade big 3

 

very good install and beautiful detailed pictures...kudos

 

Nice post!

 

good write up

 

 

[QUOTE=siucsaluki11;10227332... and the fuse should be closer to the power source, your fuse for your system is close to the battery. DO you know why you fuse? It is to protect the wire carrying all that current. You dont put your fuse for your stereo in back do you? No. The point of the fuse is the fuse blows before the wire shorts and catches on fire from overheating. Thats why you fuse within 18 in of the power source. Since in this case, its the alternator, you would fuse within 18 in of the alt. For your main run (i ran 1/0) to the trunk, you fuse within 18" of the battery there as well. Ive been doing car audio for years, and have worked in it, and researched the **** out of it. Do some more research. You had most of the details right, but some things you couldnt be more wrong.[/QUOTE]

The same amount of current is going into one end of a wire as is coming out the other. So, as long as the insulation on the wire is intact the location of the fuse doesn't matter. The reason for putting the fuse close to, or better yet, at the battery is when the wire's insulation is not intact such as when a wire's insulation gets rubbed through. The wire that is going to melt in this shorted condition is the wire between the battery and the fuse.

One way to create a disaster is to forget to reconnect the ground on the transmission bell housing when doing a clutch. That is the ground for the starter. Other grounds are bundled with wiring atop the engine and these will overheat when cranking the engine and wreck the harness.