runny_yolk

Disclaimer: I am neither a documentation writer nor a professional mechanic. I've tried to proofread these instructions for correctness but would love suggested improvements/correctionsons (especially if there is an easier way to do something).


The Evo driveline consists of three components which require fluid change on a regular basis. These are: manual transaxle, transfer case, and rear differential. This is my attempt to document how to change those three fluids so that you can avoid paying the dealer for something you can do yourself.


Note: I have not replaced my rear differential fluid and will update this once I've done so.


Tools and materials:

• 17mm socket (fill plugs)
• 24mm socket (drain plugs)
• ratchet (can't turn those sockets with your hands right?)
• torque wrench (optional, but highly recommended)
• 2 funnels with about 3 feet of hose each
• oil catch pan (unless you want all that used fluid on the floor)
• something to raise your car (I used Rhino Ramps)
• 2.9 quarts of Gear oil API classification GL-4 SAE 75W-85W or 75W-90 (I used Redline MT-90)
• 0.58 quarts of Hypoid gear oil API classification GL-5 SAE90 (I used Redline 75W90)
• 0.58 quarts of Hypoid gear oil Mitsubishi Genuine Gear Oil Part No. 8149630EX or equivalent (I used Redline 75W90)
• shop towels, rags, paper towels, whatever to clean up if you make a mess :-)

First things first, although many GL-5 fluids claim to be compatible for GL-4 applications, do NOT simply use GL-5 for everything. Your manual transaxle explicitly requires a GL-4 fluid designed for manual transaxles because many GL-5 fluids contain additives that corrode bearings. Also, GL-5 fluids do not have sufficient friction for your transmission's synchronizers to engage properly. The following link at Cobb Tuning explains this in greater detail.
http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/gearoil/index.html

The following thread at NASIOC explains how to create a mixture of various fluids for optimal smoothness. I did not do this because I felt it was unnecessarily expensive and a total pain in the ***. However, if you're obsessive compulsive or just extremely particular about transmission fluid, you can give it a shot (and if you do, please report results!)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=324326

Unlike the engine oil, the manual transaxle and transfer case fluids cannot be changed without raising the front of your car. I used Rhino ramps ($30 from my local Wal-Mart) because I felt it was easier than using a hydraulic jack and jackstands. PLEASE do not use the scissor jack that comes with your car. They are not designed to hold up the car while you are under it. We do not want stories of Evo owners crushed under their vehicles...
Update: As per suggestions from many in this group, it would be best to have the car raised and level (ie both front and rear) in order to properly drain and fill the fluids.

Manual Transaxle & Transfer Case
Locate the appropriate fill and drain plugs. The ones for manual transaxle are located near the front passenger wheel. The ones for the transfer case are located closer towards the center of the car, behind the exhaust manifold. The fill plugs will always be located higher than the drain plugs.

Open the fill plug first and clean the plug, be sure to remove both the plug as well as the metal washer. When I removed my transfer case fill plug, fluid ran from the fill hole so be prepared.

Put the oil catch pan underneath the drain plug and slowly undo the drain plug making sure that you also remove the metal washer. As the fluid drains, you may have to move the catch pan to prevent oil from leaking to the ground.

Clean the drain plug (you will find lots of tiny metal bits attached to the magnetic portion of the manual transaxle drain plug).

Once the stream of fluid has ceased, put the drain plug back. Be sure to remember to put the metal washer back on as well. If you have a torque wrench all the plugs should be tightened to 23 ft.lb.

Now, take the funnel/hose and run the hose from the top of the engine bay into the fill hole. I found it easiest to run the hose just in front of the air filter box for the manual transaxle and just behind the engine for the transfer case.

Slowly pour the correct fluid into the funnel (note the amounts listed above). You can either measure the correct amount of fluid or if you're lazy like me, just keep pouring until fluid runs from the fill hole

Replace the fill plug. Be sure to remember the metal washer.

Check for any signs of leakage.

Repeat for transfer case if you started on the manual transaxle first.

Rear Differential
TBD

Done, grab a beer or whatever and relax. Pictures to follow

One final thing, althought the manual doesn't require these fluids to be changed until 15k miles, I highly recommend changing them once you are last the break-in period. I changed mine at 1300 miles and they were pretty dirty.

runny_yolk

Picture of the car on Rhino Ramps

runny_yolk

Picture of the manual transaxle drain plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

runny_yolk

Picture of the manual transaxle fill plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture. The black thing at the left is the access panel near the front passenger wheel.

runny_yolk

Picture of the transfer case drain plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

runny_yolk

Picture of the transfer case fill plug (circled in blue). This is what you should see if your feet were pointed towards the bottom of the picture.

LancerEvoMR

Discuss thread here