Two days ago I went to start my Evo VIII which has 194,6XX miles on it and low and behold, No Start!
Tried the key a dozen or so more times and nothing. No click, just a dim of the lights.
Battery? No. Installed a new Redtop 2 months ago. Voltage = 12.4
Ignition Switch? No. Power at starter in start position
Power at starter? Yes
Power at Solenoid with key? Yes

Last culprit, the OE starter with 195k miles.
Retail Price = $750. WHAT?!?!?!?!? No Thank you!

DIY Time!
NOTE: Preform at your own risk!! I give no guarantee that this will work. It did for me.
If you damage anything it's your own fault. This is guidance not an official guide.

UPDATE:
Here are the part numbers I ordered:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/
If you search: "M137825D" (OE Starter Part number) on the site, all the parts will be listed on the only link that shows up.

I Only used the Solenoid and Brush Assy.
Solenoid for Mits Starters - 66033392 / 66-8326
Starter Brush Holder ASSY 5503063A / 69-8334

Tools:
Philips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
1/4in. Metric Sockets
8mm Box-end Wrench
Silicone Dry Lube
Gunk Parts Cleaner
Vise grips - if needed

Step 1: Shield Removal
They are 8mm hex heads.
Parts Removed:
2 Bolts
2 Nuts
1 Shield
NOTE: They may turn the 8mm sandwich under the shield nut as well. Just loosen them until you can grab the other nut then remove.

Step 2: Rear Cover Removal
Remove the two exposed 8mm nuts. Mine stayed with the shafts when they came out and that's ok.
Remove the two Philips head screws.
Parts Removed:
2 Nuts and Rods
2 Small Philips Screws
1 Rear Cover

Step 3: Removal and inspection of the brushes.
The brushes attach to the solenoid bolt. Opposite of where the power cable attaches.
They pull right out.
Parts Removed:
1 Nut
1 Washer (If Installed)
1 Brush Assembly
CAUTION: Brushes are under spring tension and may shoot out.
NOTE: This was my ultimate cause of no start. You can see how gummed up with crap they were and no longer made a good connection to spin the rotor.

Step 4: Removal of the Rotor and Housing
The rotor pulls out smoothly from the housing.
Now that everything is disconnected they just fall apart.
Parts Removed:
1 Rotor
1 Housing
CAUTION: The housing contains magnets. Be careful not to damage them. If you do, you need a starter!

Step 5: Removal of the Solenoid.
Remove the two Philips head screws holding the solenoid to the aluminum housing.
They stripped out on mine and I finally used Vice Grips to turn them out.
I replaced them with Stainless Steel Hex Cap Screws from Lowes
M6-1.00 x 25 with a washer and a lock washer.
The holes they thread into are through holes so length is not that important but do not go shorter than 25mm length.
Parts Removed:
2 Bolts
1 Solenoid
1 Spring
1 Actuator

Step 6: Removal of the Starter Gear.
With the Solenoid removed you can take out a Rubber Gasket, Metal Plate, Starter Gear and Engagement Arm.
Wiggle them a little bit then they are free.
Parts Removed:
1 Rubber Gasket
1 Metal Plate
1 Starter Gear Assembly
1 Engagement Arm

Disassembly done!
Now to clean.
There are no computers in this so everything can be cleaned and washed with no harm to any electronics.

First soak everything with Gunk, it's awesome.
NOTE: Gunk will remove the ink from the OE sticker. Oil also will, so it's probably blank as soon as you wipe it off.
Let sit overnight if time allows.
Wash clean using a toothbrush and Dawn soap.

The inside of the starter should be clean not gummed up like mine was.
After it's all cleaned to your liking it's time for reassembly.
\/ \/ \/ \/ Scroll down past the first set of pictures to read the assembly \/ \/ \/ \/


Tools Needed


Starter PreClean


OE Sticker


Shield Cleaning


Long Bolts Out AND Brushes


Rotor Dirty AND Planets Dirty


Rotor Out AND Housing Removed Dirty


Starter Gear


All Clean


New and Old AND All Clean

ASSEMBLY TIME!
As you can see I replaced the Brushes and Solenoid.
Website: www.maniacelectricmotors.com
Total Cost: $38 and some change

WARNING: Now that everything is clean and degreased, you NEED to lube the bearings.
I used a dry door hinge spray silicone. I love it and it works well. I've rebuilt a lot of starters with it.
The starter is only used for short times so it should never get hot enough to boil the silicone away.
The other option is an EXTREAMLY LIGHT COATING of synthetic brake caliper grease. Only if you are worried about heat.
DO NOT USE Wheel bearing grease. It is too thin.
WARNING: Use a small amount. Remember the inside is suppose to be clean. Too much lubrication and it will hold dirt and grime and wear out the bearings.

Lube the following areas:
Bearing hole where the Starter Gear rotates in the aluminum housing.
Starter gear moving parts. It will slide on its center shaft. Lube the shaft.
Engagement Arm center pivot
Planet Bearings X3
Rotor to Starter Gear Bearing
Rear Cover to Rotor Bearing

I have included a Step by Step Picture assembly below.

Step 1: Starter Gear into Housing with Engagement Lever
NOTE: There is a correct way that the lever goes. See image.

Step 2: Install metal plate and rubber gasket.

Step 3: Install Solenoid.
You can see the new solenoid is slightly bigger. This is because it is an updated part made to fit many starters. Its ok, it works
They sent extra gaskets and shims with it too. The old one didn't use them so I didn't install them. Must be for another starter rebuild. Discard.
I also used the M6-1.00 hex heads I bought because damn whoever thinks Philips heads were a good idea
CAUTION: Do not over tighten the bolts. They should be snug with about 14 in/lbs. AKA touching and 1/8 turn
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! If you stretch or strip the threads you will need a new starter!
NOTE: See the picture below for the orientation of the solenoid. If looking at the internals of the starter, Solenoid bolts facing away, and solenoid on top, the tab connection should be on the LEFT.

Step 4: Install planet gears and rubber gasket.
The two holes on the gasket should line up with the threaded holes for the rods.
Make sure you nicely push the gasket down so its flush before installing the housing with the magnets.
NOTE: If you install this gasket wrong you could get it caught in the planet gears and cause damage to the inside of the starter.

Step 5: Install Housing and Rotor.
The housing has a little tab. It should face towards the solenoid.
Make sure the holes in the bottom line up with the gasket holes
Place the Rotor carefully inside and mesh the gear with the planets.
Wiggle it back and forth till it falls it.

At this point the Rotor should be smoothly rotating and rotating the Starter Gear.
If its binding, take it apart and reassemble.

Step 6: Install the Brushes.
There should be a plastic spacer holding the brushes back.
Just like with a piston ring holder slide the brush assemble over the rotor.
If you screw it up, get the spacer back between the brushes and try again.
WARNING: Attempting to install the Brushes without the spacer can damage them. These are what make the rotor spin and what FAILED on my starter.
Take your time, do it right.

Step 7: Install the Rear Cover and Bolts
Place the Rear Cover on and install the long bolts and two Philips screws.
Make sure everything has begun threading before you tighten anything.
CAUTION: Tighten the two long bolts only after the Philips screws are almost tight. This ensures the Brushes are lined up to the Rear Cover correctly.

Step 8: Install the Brush Cable to the solenoid and the Shield.
If you installed the Solenoid correctly the Brush Cable should be on the opposite side of the starter tab.
If not, they will almost touch = NOT GOOD

Step 9: Install in car and drive it again!!!!!!!


Step 1, Correct Arm Install


Step 2, Metal Plate, Rubber Gasket


Old Vs. New AND Bolt Length Difference


Step 4, Gasket


Step 4


Step 5, LUBE!!!!!!


Step 5


Step 6


Step 7, LUBE


Step 8


FINAL

I hope that this helps the next person who refuses to pay $750 for a starter and instead spend some time and $50 to do the same job.
With the cleaned and "Re-maned" Starter, My car cranks much quicker, quieter and has the voltage drop to 11.4V instead of 9.8v while cranking.

All around a win!!!!
500k Miles here I come!!!!

 

Thanks for putting this post together. It's easy to follow and it looks easy enough to rebuild the starter on your own.

 

You are welcome.
Starters and Alternators are not that hard.
I might dig up a second Alt and do a rebuild on that too just because and so I have a spare.

With the age of the cars and the price of the parts its time to keep them running for a normal cost.

 

This is awesome work! Just trying to figure out which part # you used for the brush/solenoid replacements as my look points me at a 170$ rebuilt on that site and I don't know how to spec the stuff and be sure it's correct.

 

not really popular info but.you can get a reman from oreily's bought one back in 2016,only chain that doesn't have all the evo parts incorrectly listed as a base lancer. 141$ + core, I also bought an alternator there once too same thing!

 

I added the part numbers of what I used.
They are the brushes and solenoid.

https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/
Solenoid for Mits Starters - 66033392 / 66-8326
Starter Brush Holder ASSY 5503063A / 69-8334

Edit again:
if you search "M137825D" (OE Starter Part number) on their site, all the parts pop up

 

Got everything back together, this was the only silicone based lube I could find anywhere. Thoughts? https://cdn.vehicleservicepros.com/f...3958cb7dd6.jpg

 

Hi did you come across one ball bearing when tearing the starter down? I found one and unsure where it goes back on?

 

Yes, It goes next to the starter gear.
You can see it in a few photos (only bearing i remember)
Step 1 on the assembly